Interior remodeling questions w/pics


I'm putting in a double door in my den's entry way. There are a couple of walls I need to put in that will not flush with the existing walls. I'd like to make them easy to take out if we, or another owner, decides to return to the original design.
Would there be any problem with caulking the new corners as opposed to taping and texturing? That way I could avoid matching the patterns on the existing walls and avoid the mess of texturing existing walls. What I'd prefer doing is caulking in the corners with latex caulk, prime it, and spray texture over the caulk.
Also I have to move a light switch (the thing I'm most nervous about). I can access it, from behind, through the pantry. What's the easiest way to move the switch without making a mess?
Where the double door is going: www.safaricabs.com/open.jpg
Where I put up wallboard last night in the small opening. www.safaricabs.com/opening.jpg
The switch I need to move to the left to avoid the new wall: (There is a pantry directly behind it) www.safaricabs.com/switch.jpg
Any comments appreciated.
Jim
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I think if you try to make it easy to undo, it's not going to look very good. Case in point, the photo with the opening closed up with the wallboard, which IMO looks like hell. If you do it right it will look good and it's still not that big of a deal to change it back. I don't know how you could frame in doors and then use caulk avoiding any interface with the existing walls.
Regarding the light switch, it's hard to give an easiest way without being able to trace the wires and see what's there and where it's going to be moved. One basic constraint is that if you splice on to what is there, that box still needs to be accessible, meaning it needs a blank cover plate. You could avoid that by finding a place to intercept the existing wires and put boxes there, eg the attic or basement, then run the wires to the new location.
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The links to the pics don't work for me.
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If they don't work you may have an ISP issue. I've never had any issues with my posts before. Try again...I need all the help I can get!
Thanks
Jim
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Don't work for me either. Using iMac, Google, Groups, a.h.r, Verizon DSL.
Joe
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wrote:

Don't work for me either. Using iMac, Google, Groups, a.h.r, Verizon DSL.
Joe
+++++++
If I'm reading Mike's properties correctly it maybe google groups we're having a problem with.
go to: alt.binaries.test and see if you can access them there. "Remodeling Question/pics" Posted today.
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I think if you try to make it easy to undo, it's not going to look very good. Case in point, the photo with the opening closed up with the wallboard, which IMO looks like hell. If you do it right it will look good and it's still not that big of a deal to change it back. I don't know how you could frame in doors and then use caulk avoiding any interface with the existing walls.
Regarding the light switch, it's hard to give an easiest way without being able to trace the wires and see what's there and where it's going to be moved. One basic constraint is that if you splice on to what is there, that box still needs to be accessible, meaning it needs a blank cover plate. You could avoid that by finding a place to intercept the existing wires and put boxes there, eg the attic or basement, then run the wires to the new location.
________________
Thanks for the comments. What do you see that "looks like hell"? I can redo it if necessary. I can't see any problems unless you are talking about the existing walls not being straight. I thought I could fill in with caulk. The wall isn't finished. I only put up the sheet rock. What other preparation needs to be done prior to texturing? (I'll probably skip the caulking idea based on your response)
Thanks for the comments on the switch. That helps. Hopefully there will be enough slack in the lines to stretch it to the new location. The switch may not actually be in the room if there isn't. What if I left an access panel in the pantry?
Thanks again.
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What I see is sheetrock in the opening that is recessed and not flush with the wall and you have the sill sticking out at the bottom. I don't know exactly how you intend to finish it, but right now it looks obvious that there was an opening there.

That's usually not likely.
>The switch may

Yes, you could put a box in from the other side and then blank plate that.
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wrote:

What I see is sheetrock in the opening that is recessed and not flush with the wall and you have the sill sticking out at the bottom. I don't know exactly how you intend to finish it, but right now it looks obvious that there was an opening there.
--------------------------
Thanks....My wife doesn't have a problem. We're going to paint it a darker color and she's going to hang a picture in there. I'll ask her if she wants to remove the shelf and make the wall flush. She's usually the first to tell me if it's not cutting the mustard. Look at the picture of the "open" area and look at the recessed area and see if it still looks like hell. If you think it, others may too and not say anything.
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*I wouldn't worry about the next owner. Do it right. That fill-in window looks odd and a potential buyer may have a problem with that. You might be able to turn the existing switch box around (Or put another in its place) so that it is open to inside the pantry and accessible. Then use it as a junction box and run new switch wires to wherever you want. Just put a blank cover on the box.
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Second comment about that. I'll definitely think about changing it.
On the switch I was thinking of doing that and putting an access panel in the closet.
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Master Betty wrote the following:

Hang a big picture over that opening and have it rest on the sill. It'll be much easier to undo.

That switch is up against the double stud at the wall corner, so it is in a stud bay that is about 13" wide, that is if the studs are 16" on center, which would leave 14-1/2" between, less the extra stud at the corner, so you can reasonably move the light switch to the left side of the bay without cutting or drilling any studs.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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Good Luck with your project...
The bigger issue here is the attachment of the wall and door jamb framing to the floor... You are going to have to drill through those ceramic floor tiles to anchor the wall plate and door frame properly...
That will be the most painful item anyone wishing to "undo" your project later on will face, as sheet rock repairs and moving a light switch aren't all that painful to do...
It will look a lot better if you make some attempt to match the wall texture --- especially if you are concerned about resale value of your unit... It is better to do it right at the time you do the project than it is to have to redo work prior to a sale so that it looks "right" later...
How you finish the corners of your new wall where it meets the existing one all depends on how good you are at measuring and cutting the sheet rock... Caulking can only fix and hide so much of a gap... Another solution you could use to deal with the transition from existing to new is some sort of a trim installed on the new wall right in the corner...
Are you going to match the thickness of the existing divider when you do the work in the door opening area, or are you going to give it the same treatment you did when you closed up that former opening ???
If you are going to go the same way as you have with closing in that opening, make sure the new wall is flush with the face of what is existing on the side everyone will see (outside of the den) as you won't see or notice the small step or recess of the wall inside the den with the doors opened and covering the transition area...
Just personal preference here, but I would consider moving that light switch over farther than ONE stud bay so that it won't be hidden behind one side of the double doors you are planning to install...
It will make using the light switch easier in just about all conditions (when the door is open for instance) as you will be able to see where the switch is rather than having to move the door out of the way to get at it or blindly feel for it behind the door...
~~ Evan
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Actually, no. The door covers almost the entire opening. It will be secured to the wall.

Yes....as it turns out I have to tape and texture the door; not the "window" opening.
<snip>

Same treatment but, it will be basic wall size. I have to flush the wall on the right but the left is situated out into the main entry.

LOL. If I get it wrong my wife will make me do it over.

That's what I'm doing. Going from behind in the pantry.

Thanks Evan for all your input. The circumstances dictated the way is has to be done but I think it's going to look bomber. The inset window opening looks pretty cool. In the den/bedroom it looks like a headboard for a single bed. Which is what the room will most likely become.
Jim
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Master Betty wrote:

You need more fasteners.
--

dadiOH
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