Interesting "transitional" wiring; how to splice?

Why not just install self grounding outlets? The box is grounded. The mounting strap grounds to the box, and the "U" ground is electrically connected to the mounting strap.

Done. No messing with any stinking pig-tails.

Reply to
clare
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Is Nate's house in Canada, or do you believe the U.S. has the same rules and laws as you do?

Reply to
RBM

note i suggested OP CALL A HOMEOWNERS INSURANCE COMPANY AND ASK IF INSURANCE IS AVAILABLE WITH A FUSE BOX!

is that so hard to understand? and since he was planning on upgrading outlets and installing GFCIs i merely informed him he may end up replacing boxes too. GFCIs are large and often boxes are already crammed with wires and GFCIs dont fit.

sometimes just opening a box can cause endless hassles. the wire is too short oh bleep what was left just broke off. i have had these problems they are no fun:(

Reply to
bob haller

de quoted text -

Whether the inspector requires a permit or not may have no bearing on whether it's legal for you to do electrical work on a home you don't own without a license. And I can guarantee you it doesn't relieve you of possible liability if someone buys the house and a year later there is a fire where someone dies and which they try to pin responsibility for on you. Also, from a legal standpoint, the executor has potential liability too, because they had the obligation to make sure everything they did was within the law.

Not saying you shouldn't do it. Just that for a house that's part of an estate and about to be sold, it might not be the best thing to get involved in.

Reply to
trader4

Few buyers would even understand the issue. And I doubt a home inspector is going to flag it as if you use self-grounding receptacles they are allowed under code. I've used home inspectors several times and the most they did with receptacles was to stick in one of those quick testers that looks for proper polarity, ground, etc. And they only did THAT on a few receptacles.

Many of these home inspectors can't find obvious defects staring them in the face. If the home inspector does flag it, the response back is to cite the NEC and local electrical inspector if necessary, showing that it meets code.

That's why I wouldn't get too involved in changing stuff that might not need to be changed. I would fix obvious things, like getting rid of those weird receptacles.

Reply to
trader4

Were the other splices soldered (and taped)? Surely you are not going to leave them to fall apart???? Or do you think the friction tape will keep them together????

Where are you allowed to have tension on the wire? Overhead service wires from a pole might. Not exactly like wires in a box.

I do not remember ever seeing such a requirement.

It is not in the code now. It is not in the oldest code I have.

In the past wires were twisted and soldered. It was the standard. (For K&T most splices were Western Union tap splices or a variation.)

Is a wire nut as "mechanically be as strong as the original wire".

So you think the cockroaches will pull the soldered wires apart?

How do you think soldered splices are made? Crimped sleeve first? Screw lug first? Why bother with solder?

Which has been the requirement for a long time. Twisted has always been "mechanically and electrically secure without solder".

Reply to
bud--

I agree with RBM. And if we want to be picky, wirenuts are not intended to be used over soldered connections.

But wire nut them if you want to.

I don't like them, but I would use self-grounding receptacles, as clare suggests.

If the 2011 NEC is in force, most or all of them should be tamper-resistant (child proof) - 406.12.

Reply to
bud--

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