Insurance qustion

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Man with that endurance and longevity it should be in the freaking Simthsonian.....
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wrote:

Neat. You worked that well. Did the body shop charge include a paint job? No rust? I can't imagine a 70's era car not rusting out where I live.
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On Wed, 06 Mar 2013 07:37:49 -0600, Vic Smith

128L was pretty well disintegrated by 1982.
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Vic Smith wrote:

The only paint was on the new clip to match the existing paint.
No body rust, always garaged. There was (at one time, not now) a rust problem with the bottom corners of the windshield frame; that was a common prblem with them.
The only problems I had with the car were people hitting it and mechanics screwing stuff up. Got it out of a body shop at 8AM one morning, had it parked on the street in front of my business and at 9:30 a woman backed into it. Back to the body shop. BTW, the first time it was repainted the cost was $150; the last time (about 1998) it was $1500.
--

dadiOH
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dadiOH wrote:

To expound slightly, MOST of the problems I had with the car were people hitting it and mechanics screwing stuff up. There were other problems, most of which were normal for any car...master cylinder was replaced once, front end (ball joints, etc.), brake calipers once (discs never, still have a set "just in case"), clutch too IIRC.
The one thing that gave me the most problems was the water pump. It had a rather wierd shape, very narrow at one end and tended to break at the thin part; went through at least three pumps. The last time was when I was driving north to start living in Florida. The pump went out in Aldama, Mexico, a little town about 80 kilometers north of Tampico. I got on the phome to my wife who was still in Veracruz and had her order one from the US (easier for her than me on a hotel phone).
Well, they got the pump sent promptly via UPS but they sent it to Monterey which was the only place UPS went. The UPS office there sent it via another carrier to Tampico and they passed it on to another local carrier. Trouble is, the local carrier didn't go to Aldama so it got sent back to Monterey which is about 200 miles from where I was..
So there I am in Aldama. The most entertaining thing there was sitting on the hotel porch in a rebar and expanded steel rocker watching the vultures circling overhead. Fortunately, I met a fellow there called "El Negrito" which means "the little black guy"; a joke because he was FAR from little. "Fortunately" because he spoke English - he was from Trinidad - and Spanish. I do OK in Spanish but it is hard on the phone. He calls the UPS manager in Monterey and gets the guy to personally deliver it to me. I owe El Negrito a nice dinner.
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wrote:

And the UPS guy. The best parts of life, or maybe the most interesting parts, happen by accident. If you can avoid the rusting out, most cars will last a long time if attended to. Some just take more care. Mine was a '64 bug. Kept it utterly reliable until the seat started sinking through the rusting floorpan. It was time to send it to the boneyard.
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On Tue, 5 Mar 2013 22:31:09 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03

The bottom line on this is insurance settlements for an older totaled car is "usually" is a net loss for the car owner. Your post reminded me of what happened to my son's car. Story time. It was a late 80's Cutlass with 3800 engine. He was commuting from Chicago to Champagne while attending U of I. Christmas break I had it at my mechanic to fix some issue. Great mechanic in Niles, IL. M&N Repairs. Very low crime area. Wayne, the head mech and owner calls me the day before New Year's and says the car is ready. Told him I'd get it Jan 2nd. So I go there, go right inside, but I didn't see the car. It's an old gas station with room to park about 8 cars outside without interfering with the tow/plow trucks. So he hands me the keys and I pay him the charge. He's standing there smiling at me while I wait for him to tell me where the cars is. Finally I say, "Where's the car?" He thinks I'm joking, so I repeat it. He thought I already picked it up with spare keys. Took a bit before he realized I really hadn't picked up the car. In the 25 years he had the garage, a car had never been stolen. He said the car was there during the day on New Years Eve, so we knew it was taken that night. Reported the theft to Niles PD, and a couple days later they called and said it was impounded on the far south side of Chicago. Surprisingly, it had no damage. Not even the ignition. Think it cost about a bill to get it out of the pound. No sympathy there. A few days later on the way back to school in the car, my son gets pulled over by the State Police. He's cuffed and taken to the local jail for driving a stolen car. Took some phone calls to clear that up, and I had to show up at Niles PD to get them to correct the records.
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On 3/4/2013 9:15 PM, HeyBub wrote:

First thing I would do is get Blue Book value as that is max that insurance company will pay. Lower mileage and good condition usually does not mean much to insurance company. I had one low mileage car stolen and another totaled in past 15 years and might have finagled an extra $100 out of them above book.
I have a repair shop that I use that works with insurance company. I prefer final bill paid to estimate. Deer ran into me last year and estimate was about $1,500 but repair ended up at about $2,500. Insurance companies know all this stuff and will "total" a vehicle if initial estimate goes over about 70% of book value as they will not know true cost of repair until work starts and parts removed to see any underlying damage.
Here, in DE an insurance company has up to one month to give you an estimate. Don't know law where you live.
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wrote:

I had a similar experience about 5 years ago. Details are a bit hazy, but here's the basics. Son was driving our spare car, a '93 Beretta. Had about 160k miles on it. Got hit, smashing up some body parts. Front fender, buckled hood, and front light assembly. The hitter's insurance company paid book value and totaled it. Think it was about $6-800. Son wanted to fix it. Think I had to pay $100 to the insurance company for the title. Also think the title was marked "Salvage" in the state data base, but not sure. This is Illinois. The insurer was State Farm or Allstate. So just ask the insurer how it works in your state. They pretty much go by the book with everything they do. My son fixed the Beretta for about $250 in boneyard parts, even getting an exact color match with the parts. He wanted to do it, could do it, so it worked out. Think hard about what's damaged and real costs before you go that route.
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HeyBub wrote:

You're assuming they are going to total the truck, and you're assuming they are going to tell you a 1998 Chevy S10 pickup truck is worth $500. Then, from that assumption, you are off on a whole big scenario of taking them to small claims court etc.
There is no way that anyone is going to say 1998 Chevy S10 pickup truck is only worth $500. I just junked a completely rusted out, beat-to-s..., GMC pickup truck with a blown automatic transmission for $350 -- and they came and towed it for free. That was just the junk metal value. When the transmission on that one went out, I bought a 1989 GMC Sierra 1500 mediocre condition pickup truck for $800. Look online and your 1998 pickup is worth $2,000 or more.
Let us know what they actually do say after you hear back from them.
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On 3/5/2013 10:25 AM, TomR wrote:

Sounds like you never read a "heybub" post before?

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posts or use your KF Or both
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On 3/6/2013 2:35 PM, ChairMan wrote:

Sorry. I didn't know "heybub" had such a lonely following waiting for the next post in this home repair group...
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HeyBub wrote:

state you are in, most of the advice posted is questionable.
Generally, if you are making a claim on your own policy, they will give you the cost of repairs (less your deductible, which they will return to you if they make a recovery from the other party) or the fair market value of your vehicle, whichever is less. They can do this because it is written into your contract of insurance.
The other parties insurer does not have a contract with you. Their contract is with their insured, so they cannot arbitrarily total your vehicle. Their obligation is to their insured, and with an at-fault accident, their insured is obligated, generally, to put you back where you would have been without the accident. I suspect that if you get a written estimate of the cost of repairs, and a list of other expenses you have had to incur, such as the cost of a rental vehicle, they will be amenable to fully reimbursing you, although they may make an initial low-ball offer, just to try to save some money. Get their offer in writing; if it is too low, decline it and repeat what you want. If you can't come to an agreement, take all documentation and head for court, but I suspect you will come to agreement, as the insurance company will not want to have to pay an attorney.
An interesting question you might want to look into is who was driving the uhaul, as that is the party who will ultimately be liable, unless there are some strange circumstances that haven't been revealed.
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Notat Home wrote:

Good point, but U-Haul knows they have some liability in that they did not instruct the renter on the pecularilarities of the truck.
To go into more detail, my truck was parked and the U-Haul parked next to it. The driver of the TWENTY-TWO foot-long bed U-Haul was evidently unaware that the ass-end of his truck stretched beyond the rear wheels, I'd guess, ten feet. So when he tried to leave, by driving straight ahead and cutting sharply to the left, the tail of his truck swung to the right, scraping my vehicle, removing the rear-view mirror and folding the driver's door. It got the bed, door, and front quarter-panel.
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Which is pretty much the same thing. If the vehicle is only worth $2,000 and it would cost $4,000 to fix it, they will typically only pay the $2,000, just like they would if they were paying for it under a collision policy. That puts you back where you would have been without the accident. Actually, you'd be a little better off, because if it were your own car, under a collision policy, a typical deductible of $500 or $1000 would apply and you'd only get $1,000 -
You can go to court, but the court's concept of making you whole is pretty much the same. If the truck was only worth $2000, as shown by credible sources, that's what you will recover. The insurance company may be willing to kick in some additional money to avoid going to court, but if it gets to court, the rules apply.
 I suspect that if you get a

Maybe if it only exceeds the value of the vehicle by a small amount. But they're typically not going to pay $5,000 to fix a car that's only worth $2,000.
Get their offer in

And better make sure that documentation includes blue book proof that the car is worth more than they are offering.

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HeyBub wrote:

I have learned much from the comments you folks have offered. It's said to a man with a hammer, every solution involves a nail.
I can see where I wanted to rush off to court (having done so countless times) when there are other, perhaps better, tactics to employ.
Once again, thanks to all who earnestly tried to help; it was much appreciated.
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On 3/5/2013 3:28 PM, HeyBub wrote:

I've learned from my lawyer sons that most disputes are settled without going to court even when lawyers are involved.
One son did help me when my car was totaled and drivers insurance company was dragging its feet. Letter from lawyer can work wonders. Also resulted in a settlement higher than book value for pain and suffering sort of thing.
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HeyBub wrote:

So, what was the final outcome? What did you work out with the insurance company?
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TomR wrote:

Good question. Last Friday I got a call from the scheduler who said an adjuster would appear at my residence on the following Monday (last Monday) between 1:00 and 4:00 in the afternoon.
At 3:00 pm on Monday, the adjuster called. He said he was about twelve miles away and would be along shortly.
It is now Thursday morning and his fate is still unknown.
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