Insulation suggestions?

Currently have the walls open on second floor of hundred year old balloon framed house. With the walls open I have access to most of the stud bays on the first floor. looking for suggestions to insulate the outside walls of the first floor from the opening on the second floor.
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On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 08:44:38 GMT, old hifi guy

Balloon framed?????? What the f____ are you talking about?
I hope no one ever sticks a pin in your walls !!!! That could be real dangerous...... * B O O M *
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snipped-for-privacy@UNLISTED.com wrote:

In balloon framing the studs are continuous up the side of the home and the opening between studs is open from the first floor to the attic. The second floor floor is attached to the studs not sitting on the top of an 8 foot stud wall.

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Joseph Meehan

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Many years ago, longer beams used to be available. Baloon frame means that there is an open channel through the walls from the cellar to the attic.
Firemen hate this kind of house, cause a fire in the cellar can turn into a fire in the attic is very little time.
I'd suggest you consider blown cellulose insullation. And firestops on the bottom end of the walls (which will be the highest reaches of the cellar). Of course, you are likely to get better advice than this from folks who are in the insullation trade.
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Christopher A. Young
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old hifi guy wrote:

I would ask for a couple of bids from local insulation companies. They should have the experience and equipment to make the job go quick and easy. I would guess they will blow in insulation. Some of the newer types will not settle after the fact.
I will add that in my opinion it is important to fill those stud bays, not just to make your home more energy efficient and quieter, but reduce the fire hazard.
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Joseph Meehan

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Right.... fire in the cellar pops out in the attic...
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Christopher A. Young
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Cellulose is what alot of contractors do, but in a 100 yr old house that the basement is not sealed well, Do Not do it. Cellulose is paper and is dusty. You will have a permanent dust problem of chemicaly treated dust in your house. Fibergass blown in is better, but best is foam. Icynene foam will seal, not turn to dust and insulate more effectivly because it is cured solid to the wood and is a moisture barrier. Icynene is R 3.5 - 4.5.per inch or so. A poly urethane can be used but it needs some time to outgass. But it is a much higher R value than Icynene foam. Cellulose = dust. Your old house is not sealed well, I know people who now have major dust problems from cellulose. Cellulose is paper that deteriorates to dust when used dry. There are new types of Cellulose aplications that use a glue binder and go in wet. But in rehab it can mold before it is cured, in new construction it is OK. Foam costs more but the payback will be quicker and worth the cost and future cleanliness . Dont jump into it, research it your self.
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On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 08:49:56 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (m Ransley) wrote:

IMHO,
Just another 2 cents into the pot, foam(icynene) should not settle out over time like cellulose can. This way you maintain your wall's insulational protection for years to come.
later,
Tom @ www.URLBee.com
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snipped-for-privacy@intertainia.com wrote:
-snip-

Foam doesn't settle, it 'out-gasses' leaving a chunk of useless foam with an air space around which wind can blow.
I'm still partial to cellulose. If properly installed it *doesn't* settle. It is also treated with ?borax? which makes it an inhospitable place for insects or rodents to live. I've never found rodent nests in my walls that are filled with cellulose-- but finding them in the fiberglass filled walls is relatively common.
Jim
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Jim Elbrecht wrote:

If you spray foam into an existing wall, it will likely push the wall board off the studs.
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Icynene outgasses in 30 minutes. But blowing out walls is the issue, Final payment and his insurance Co. is your insurance, Reaearch these..
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