Installing wood flooring

I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two adjecent rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are normal sized, have a rough concrete slab floor and baseboard radiators. The flooring will be toung and groove. Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or whatever to make the job go more smoothly?
TIA and wish me luck.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
coustanis, 1/20/2006, 11:31:19 AM,

I cannot speak for hardwood floor, but I did laminate in my house and the one thing I suggest is purchase the transition pieces that go from one type of flooring to another before you start so you will know exactly how to meet up to it with your hardwood slats.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
: I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two adjecent : rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are normal sized, : have a rough concrete slab floor and baseboard radiators. : The flooring will be toung and groove. : Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or whatever to : make the job go more smoothly? : : TIA and wish me luck. :
Should be pretty easy; also, there are usually good instructions included. Only "odd" item you might need is a "transition" piece in the doorway. Check the spec: There are "length" specs to the flooring. The one I bought said if it's over 30 ft, you need to add the "transition" piece to allow for expansion in the doorway. It's just a T shaped piece, even matches the flooring. Check the Mfg's web site; probably lots of info there too.
Pop
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hardwood or engineered wood? Can I assume this is OK for over a slab and has the proper barrier?
If all that is correct, you will want the right tools like knee pads and a dovetail saw to cut under the door jambs. Don't even think about starting without knee pads.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Most likely engineered. If it has no barrier, I'll use 2 in 1 or whatever that plastic laminated to foam is called. Already have knee pads.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The plastic lam to foam is ok, but check what it's good for. Many of them are ok with moisture vapor of 3 lbs. per 1,000 square feet in 24 hours. If you have more moisture than that, you'll need a better barrier.
Polyethylene sheeting is good. So is a product by Bostik call MVP4 (it's a trowel on urethane barrier).
Regards -Greg Pasquariello
--
Fair Pacific Bamboo
720-227-9135
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hey, Edwin, thanks! The laminate flooring is due next week; hadn 't thought abuot the knee pads!!
Pop
: > I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two adjecent : > rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are normal sized, : > have a rough concrete slab floor and baseboard radiators. : > The flooring will be toung and groove. : > Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or whatever to : > make the job go more smoothly? : > : > TIA and wish me luck. : > : Hardwood or engineered wood? Can I assume this is OK for over a slab and has : the proper barrier? : : If all that is correct, you will want the right tools like knee pads and a : dovetail saw to cut under the door jambs. Don't even think about starting : without knee pads. : :
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.