:> > > Sears Model 15111 :> >
:> > That may be a catalog #, Kenmore model#'s are more like 123.45678910 :> >
:> > May not be exact to yours or all washers, but some install tips... :> >
:> >
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:> :> Your correct but to further your knowledge....the first "1" in the stock # :> indicates the size of the washer..in this case..large. As opposed to "2" :> which would indicate the larger washer series. The second number indicates :> the last digit of the year "5". The third letter, another "1" indicates the :> series; in this case the lowest level. They basically number from 1 to 9. :> The fourth "1" indicates how far up in this particular model series and the :> last "1" is the color code. 1 for white with black console, 2 for white on :> white, 4 for bisque. In older models the decade was the number just before :> the first "1" after the period in the full model number. In newer models, :> it would be the first number after color number. Not that any of this is of :> any value...just woke up at 5am and couldn't go back to sleep...sorry. : :Interesting!! : :Thankx! : :jeff. :Appliance Repair Aid :
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To quote the link (actually another link, provided, that says the same thing!):
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Washing Machine Installation: How To Pipes required for the washer installation include hot and cold hose bibb valves, and drain hose standpipe.
- Thread standard hose bibb valves into the brass female threaded winged fitting of the hot and cold supply lines. These will connect to the washer with a rubber hose.
- A 2" drain standpipe is installed with a trap above the floor for the waste line. Usually this is between 6 to 12 inches above the floor.
- Install the hot and cold hose bibb valves and drain hose pipe so that they can be reached when the machine is in place. The drain standpipe should always be taller than your highest water level in the machine to add protection from back-up water and siphoning. These are usually pre-fabricated 2 inch pipes (designed to fit into a standard 2-inch drain pipe) that have a built in trap and are available from your dealer in several lengths. Commonly, they are 34" or longer but check your local code* for length and diameter required in your area.
- Hook up the water supply line. Put washers into the washer end of the hose and hand tighten. Then give a 1/4 turn with pliers to tighten the hose to the machine. Connect hot to hot and cold to cold.
- Use a filter washer, with the screen facing out, at the ends that connect to the hose bib valves at the hot and cold water supply lines.
- Set the drain hose into the standpipe. Secure the hose to the drain pipe with duct tape to prevent it from coming out.
- Level the washing machine by adjusting the legs under the machine.
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I went to a big hardware store today and started scouting around to see what they had. I saw some iron pipes I figured I could use and was perusing the traps they had when a worker asked me if I could use some help and I said "yes."
I told him the situation and he said a trap wasn't necessary. I said I'd been to a website that said a trap was a good idea (see above!). He started scouting around and after 15-20 minutes came up with 3 different PVC packages that, together, amounted to a trap/extension system that I could screw directly into the elbow. It will extend maybe 37 inches from the floor and he said I could just cut off what I don't want.
He said if it was him, he'd support the hose somehow. He said over time he thought it would be a strain on the PVC connections - enough to cause failure at some point unless I support the hose somehow, maybe with a strap or hook or similar. I figure I can do that. One of my concerns was the join of the PVC/elbow. He said to use teflon tape for that.
Well, I haven't assembled yet but I'm THAT close to doing my first home laundry ever! Thanks for the help...d