Installing wall boxes for receptacles

[Joe]

1) No

2) Yes

Joe

[RogerT]

I think there really is a need to use the box extenders. The need is to close the gap that is there now, which is the question you originally asked about. That is a safety issue, not an issue about how to connect the switches etc. to the box. I do understand the setup that you have now and what you mean about how (with the existing longer screws) the switches are already securely mounted in place. But, the point is that you should be eliminating the gap -- for safety.

The cost of the box extenders is minimal and, as someone else already wrote, they are really easy to install. You just take out the existing two screws for each switch/outlet, slip the plastic box extender over the switch/outlet, then replace the two screws which now go through the two holes in the box extender.

I have done this myself. It is very easy, very cheap, and it is the safe and correct thing to do.

One note -- In my area (New Jersey), my local Home Depot stores have a wide selection of size/thickness of plastic box extenders (each thickness is a different color as shown in the Home Depot link that I sent earlier). But, my local Lowes only has one or two sizes. Your area may be different in terms of who has what.

[RogerT]

The sparks would come from loose connections, shorts, etc. that may occur at some time in the future. That is why the connections are all enclosed in boxes -- to prevent sparks from future shorts etc. from setting something in the surrounding area on fire. If that wasn't the case, there would be not need for any electrical boxes -- all of the wiring would just be twisted connections in the open space behind the drywall etc. But, of course, that is not allowed, and the reason is so that the places where there are any connections can be fully enclosed. Your present setup defeats that purpose and is a hazard.

[N8N]

that's not right, or even code compliant. front of box must be at least ahead of the back of the wallboard, and preferably just short of flush with it (I say just short of, because the installation will look best when the plaster ears are resting on the wallboard and not the box.)

nate

[RBM]

The boxes in non combustible material should be flush, but in no case, set back more than 1/4". In combustible material, they must be flush

[clare]

Nate - read it again and reconsider your answer. Flush with the FINISH side of the wallboard IS code compliant. The FINISH side is the side you see, and is virtually what you said was required.

[John Grabowski]

*For 3/4" he might be better off with these from Arlington:

[Rebel1]

John,

Thanks for bringing these to my attention. Even though the extenders are easy apply, it might be quite a chore if I have to do every box in the 2800 sq. ft. house (2 floors, plus a basement). This could easily be

50 boxes.

[RogerT]

Of course, no one here can make you do anything. But in your original post you wrote,

"I removed the cover plates for several of the GFI wall outlets and wall switches over a friend's house (built 1993). I was surprised that the fronts of the receptacle boxes were about 1/4 inch BEHIND the inside of the wallboard, leaving a uniform air gap of 1/4 inch on all four sides. Is this allowed by code?"

If you want to correct the problem and meet the code, you could easily do all 50 boxes for less than $50 in box extenders bought from someplace like this:

If it's your friend's house, and you removed the cover plates for several of the GFI wall outlets, I am guessing you are doing some work there which may involve the electrical wiring. Even if all you are doing is helping your friend out for free, I think it would be a good idea to just do the easy and dirt-cheap fix that is required for safety reasons. If you don't want to do it, maybe you could show your friend and he/she could do it. I am not sure why you posted the original question if you are so reluctant to just do the easy fix and correct this safety issue that you uncovered.