Installing plywood "beaded" board

I will be installing "beaded" plywood, 1/4 in., as a ceiling for a patio cover. I have 16 in. center rafters. I want to use "deck wood screws" to install the ceiling so if I need to get access above again I can simply unscrew it. How close would the screws need to be along the rafters... every 6", 10", 12" Thanks..
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<< I will be installing "beaded" plywood, 1/4 in., as a ceiling for a patio cover. >> Most plywood of this thickness is not very rigid. You may have some unsightly sagging if it matters.
<< How close would the screws need to be along the rafters... every 6", 10", 12" >>
Every 12" or so ought to work out pretty well. Consider using Robertson (square drive) screws if you need to remove the panels later, and perhaps a dab of lubricant. (wax?) to make it easier. Good luck.
Joe
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On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 14:24:14 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (AgaPSDIVER) wrote:

exterior grade?
BB
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(AgaPSDIVER)

for 1/4" with no weight above the boards, 12" would be sufficient.
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wrote:

???
I asked if the OP plans to use extreior grade paneling.
BB
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THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!
I got this product at home depot - installed above joists, with ply decking immediately above, then glued-down membrane roof.
I didn't even think about interior/exterior.
Then, after roof was done, it rained. The beadboard scraps and cutoffs that were left out delaminated, warped, buckled. So far no sign of trouble with the installed pieces, but ...

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The 12" other mention sounds about right. Plan ahead and make a small access panel cutout so you can easily get up there and not have to take a big section down. Ed
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ceiling for a

get access

screws
A literal reading . . .
. . . indicates you intend to be able to remove and replace the entire ceiling at will, rather than any given-size(s) access-panel(s).
With 1/4" plywood, especially bead board, which is directional, you should apply the board across (perpendicular to) the joists with joints abutting at a joist. Typically, for a neat, in-plane, smooth ceiling surface, you should have solid blocking running parallel with the board's long dimension along each edge. (Bead board often comes with edges designed to abut and even to interlock on thicker panels. You likely will not be able to utilize this feature to easily remove any board alone, etc.)
Especially with 1/4" board, you should secure at no greater than 8" oc along the perimeter of each board and no greater than 12" within the field.
I would recommend a thicker board for the intent of removal and replacement. 15/32" would be about the minimum. You could then go with greater spacing, if you wanted to cut down on labor. I would stick with the 8" and 12". 1/4" board is not going to give you a very smooth, even ceiling that takes full advantage of the beadboard appearance. Certainly, with wider screw spacing, you are going to get perceptible warping.
If just "staying put" is all you want, ignore my recommendations. 12" spacing will hold the panels up on the ceiling without falling. Just will not look very good this time next year.
You might go with stainless steel screws with integral grommets (same as used for installing trim in automobile interiors) for the best, most uniform appearance and least deformation of the beadboard. Layout your screw spacing with chalk lines. That many screws (even at 12", which won't look too good anyway) will really look crappy if unevenly spaced and out-of-line. The grommeted screws will also improve the appearance.
Jim
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