I am installing 4 5/8 crown molding (38 degrees) in my upstairs
hallway. Everything is been going fine except for some odd corners,
which I was able to figure the angle with a plumbers tape and the miter
and bevil setting from Dewalt online. Anyway, one of my pieces wasn't
fitting at all. After a few minutes of frustration I figured out that
there was about an inch change in the cieling of that wall. Now the
wall is only 48 inches long, so I was using one piece. I guess with a
longer wall you could firmly nail in one side and then bend in the
other, but that doesn't work with the short piece.
Any suggestions? Do I have to warp my damn crown molding to make it
~Horrendously Built House's Homeowner
On Wed, 25 Oct 2006 16:01:25 -0400, "Don Phillipson"
I found using foam crown molding very useful in compensating for
uneven ceiling. Plus triming the ends was easier since I could use an
exacto knife to carve the ends.
tom @ www.WorkAtHomePlans.com
Some people do that, but you end up with an uneven bottom line, which
is very noticeable. Others prefer to add an extender piece of scrap
slightly offset backwards to the top of the crown where it's too low
to reach the ceiling, and then fill in the space with a smooth bead of
Not sure if you meant that the ceiling is 1" higher at one end than
the other or of you mean the ceiling is lower by 1" somewhere along
If one end is higher than the other, its a simple matter of adjusting
your miter and leaving your bevel alone. Sort of like you would do
If you are talking about a 1" sag in the ceiling along the 48" length,
what we usually do is plane off the top of the molding to fit the
ceiling snug while the bottom of the molding stays straight. But a 1"
sag in just 48" would possible be too evident to the eye. Plane a
test piece to fit and see if it looks too evident. If it does, then
you might have to get into some carpentry and pull the sagging section
of ceiling up if possible......... My son is telling me that to plane
off 1" in only 48" will be too evident and he would suggest to the
home owner that adjustments will have to be made in the ceiling which
can (if you are lucky) only encompass pulling the sagging section back
If the ceiling was flat but not level, he'd be able to just tip the
molding to match, so it's got to be curved.. and since the problem
is on the ends, not the middle, it's got to be a convex curve.
For something with that much variation, I'd scribe a plank to
match the curve of the ceiling, and put that on top of the crown
molding. The only problem with that is if he's trying to meet
more such molding at the corner. At which point you'd have to
decide whether to continue with the spacer all around the room,
or put in some sort of corner-block or bracket to hide the
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