I bought a Westinghouse Saf-T-Brace (Model 01400) for use in installing a ceiling fan. Unfortunately, I have discovered the ceiling joists are only 10" apart (edge to edge) in the spot I want to install the fan (after I cut the hole in the ceiling). Do they or anyone else make a shorter version of the brace?
If not, has anyone every tried to cut each piece of the brace, to make it shorter? The threaded rod looks like some kind of hardened steel.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
I had the exact same problem in my kitchen, and had purchased the same brace. I took my 4" grinder and ground down the square tubing around the cast threaded insert piece. I then knocked the insert out, cut the tubing down with a hacksaw, drove the insert back in, staked it with a center punch, and then cut the screw on the other foot to match. Et voila, works like a champ. Probably not UL listed but it can't be anything but stronger than the original 16" configuration.
nate
I have cut a few of them. The steel is hard, but I use a reciprocating saw with a hack saw blade. It is best if you clamp the pieces down or use a vise. I also file the edges of the square tube a little before reinserting the square nut.
If the brace you have is similar to the Westinghouse 01100, you can unscrew the threaded rod and cut it. It's shiny but not case hardened. You have to tap the threaded plug out of the end of the square tube, cut down the tube, then tap the threaded plug back into it. It works fine
What I've done in the past is buy one of those round "pancake" electrical boxes and screw it directly to the joist. You still have plenty of room to tuck the wires in the housing of the fan. Of course this would only work if the joist was centered in the room, but in your case your talking only being off by a maximum of 5" off center being that your joists are 10" apart.
They actually make a "fancake" box for mounting on the beam
-------------------------------------- The trouble is that OP has already cut the hole, and it would be take careful mud work to conceal the hole. I never buy any of these ready- to-use contraptions. I simply build my own out of lumber to fit between exisiting joists. Using a 2x4 as a base board, I secure (using screws) two vertical end pieces out of 3/4" plywood stock and assemble the contraption to look like a flat bottom U (like this | ___|) --measured to fit snugly between the joists, of course. I then affix the junction box to the bottom of the base board making sure to drill a hole for the cable to reach the junction box. ALL THESE STEPS ARE DONE IN MY SHOP. Now, with the hole in the cieling already cut, I simply drop my contraption between the joists and secure the vertical end pieces by screws or bolts. Now this may not be code, but the bracket could not be any stronger and it will definitely hold the weight of the fan. I have done this with four different fans and they are still holding now over 20 years later.
Fine and well, if you have access from above. These "contraptions" IMHO, having installed literally hundreds of fans, are the best things since sliced bread. The good ones like Westinghouse 01100, you could do chin-ups on
Heh, that's how I test 'em to make sure they're in solid. I figure better I fall than a whirling fan with a glass light fixture hanging from it.
nate
RBM wrote:
I encountered this also. I'm not sure of the brand of brace I had, but it was a square tube with cast aluminum ends. I was able to saw the tube off, then knock the end out, and re-install the end in the shortened tube. I also had to saw an amount off the screw in the other end. Worked good after that.
If you were able to measure the ten inches between joists then I assume you have access to the spot from the attic. If so then cutting a piece of 2X4 to the exact size and drilling a hole through it where you want the electrical box to be attached is the best way to go.
During testing, how do you manage to spin around?
The space above the hole is finished, so I don't have access to the joists. I just measured the space using the hole (measure from one side of hole to one joist, repeat for the other side and add the two measurements).
A friend has a chop saw with a metal cutting blade. I'm going to cut the brace as suggested by others.
Thanks.
I've had my wrists surgically replaced with gimbals.
nate
We didn't plan on your using addition. It sounds Communist to me.
Awesome! Thanks, this worked like a charm.
How did you tap it out? Having some trouble here. Hoping to avoid getting a new grinder blade. Thanks!
I have done it. It has been a while since I had to cut one of those things. As I recall, the square threaded piece inside of the tube can be removed, but I forget exactly how I did it. I don't remember if I banged something through the back of the tube or if I pried the square out. It wasn't that difficult as I did on the back of my truck.
Wow, this still works today - 2021. Note to others - too difficult to use a hacksaw, so use a grinder as Nate suggested. Also, from me, be very careful how much you cut off. I tried to cut mine exactly long enough, but it was still a half inch too long and I had to do it again. That was a pain.
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