Installing a STRONG shelf on garage wall

It is the type of wardrobe cabinet factories use for workers. It is two feet wide and about six feet high.

Reply to
Daniel Prince
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While that does have a ring of truth, it is probably more likely that the water table is low enough that if we dig a hole it will stay dry. Once you get the cellar hole dug you still have to dig a little deeper around the perimeter and pour a footing.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

To be more precise, footings have to be placed below the frost line. In many areas, it is indeed 4 feet. In some areas it's less, in some it's much more.

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To be more precise, the person(s) who contracted the building to be built will decide whether a basement should be added, assuming that there are no other factors the would prevent it.

In your OP you said "I live in an frost-free area so I do not have a basement"

I don't know the real reason as to why you don't have a basement, but it's not because you live in a frost free area. In other words, there are lots of houses in frost free areas that have basements for all the reasons you mentioned above, plus many more.

Good luck with your shelf project.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

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Can you recommend screws that are as easy to drive as drywall screws but are not brittle?

Reply to
WW

If you want to keep the wardrobe cabinet, maybe just put that up on a few bricks or blocks so you can look under it for termite tunnels. And then just get two sets of the shelves that I posted about earlier and use them to replace the wooden shelves that you have now.

Reply to
TomR

gold deck screws from the borg

Reply to
chaniarts

I'm purposely not getting into argument about the strength of drywall screws because I don't think that's the main concern here.

I'd be more concerned about dampness, thus the suggestion to use PT wood for any wood that touches concrete.

Drywall screws will rust and eventually disintegrate if they remain wet. I would suggest that you use Deckmates or other such screws that are designed for exterior use.

Not only will they last longer, but the star drive will make them much easier to install.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

On 7/7/2013 9:57 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ...

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And, there's really no need for screws, per se, anyway...other than the one ledger against the wall, possibly, and even there a 12 or 16d common will be all it'll ever need. And, as for the rest of the frame, ditto. There's nothing in tension to need anything more if it's designed at all smartly.

Reply to
dpb

I use square drive (aka Robertson) when I have a choice. But to each his own.

Reply to
Vic Smith

Given the choice of attaching the ledger with screws or nails, I'll choose screws every time. In fact, given the choice of nails vs. screws for any attachment, I'll choose screws virtually every time. Easy install, easy removal, etc.

Obviously there are times when nails make more sense, like trim, etc. However, if I'm building a frame for a shelf or anything similar, it's getting screwed together.

Granted, if I had a framing nailer or even a palm nailer, I might use nails for some projects, but when it's a choice between a hammer and screw gun, the screw gun wins out every time.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

On 7/7/2013 11:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ...

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OP said he was going w/ lag's for that so I presumed we were talking the frame, etc., primarily if not exclusively. OTOH, for his purpose, it'll never come off o' there if just nailed, either--

I've got both but the hammer will win almost every time w/ me--it's less nuisance and cheaper and unless there's a real reason for the screw it just doesn't turn me on (so to speak... :) )...

A prime reason may be you'll play the devil driving a screw of _any_ sort in any of this 100-yo SYP which is 90% of what I'm generally dealing with either in the house or any of the outbuildings. OTOH I _can_ drive a nail in it.

Reply to
dpb

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