Installing a STRONG shelf on garage wall

[Daniel Prince]

I want to install a STRONG shelf on my garage wall about a foot above the floor. The shelf will be on the wall between the garage and the house.

I plan to attach a 2 by 4 to the wall with lag bolts into the bottom plate of the wall. The back of shelf will sit on the 2 by 4 attached to the wall and the front will sit on another 2 by 4 supported by 2 by 4 legs.

(The garage floor is about a foot below the finished floor of the house which is above the crawlspace. I live in an frost-free area so I do not have a basement. The bottom foot of the wall in the garage is concrete.)

I want to attach 2 by 4 cross pieces to the front and back 2 by 4's with joist hangers about every 16 inches. I plan to attach the legs to the front 2 by 4 with upside-down joist hangers. I will use drywall screws to fasten the joist hangers to the 2 by 4's. I will use the largest particle board shelf I can find at Home Depot or Lowes as the top of the shelf. I think I have seen some that are 8 feet by 16 inches by about 0.75 inches thick.

Does what I have described sound like a good plan? Can you think of anything I could change that would make the shelf easier to make, or less expensive? Thank you in advance for any help.

[TimR]

Can you use 16 inches instead of 12? Just stack two concrete blocks. Put the shelf on top of them. Stronger and cheaper.

[dpb]

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Just how strong is "STRONG"? How much weight and of what type (concentrated vs distributed) load?

I'd be _very_ surprised if you put enough on it that simply nailing up a frame w/ 16d commons thru the outer rims before mounting to wall wouldn't be sufficient. I'd probably just notch the legs and nail them as well and dispense w/ the hangers.

Also, if you really are talking of supporting a lot of weight, 3/4 CDX ply is much more suitable than particle board (albeit that's a cost boost, not decrease).

[dbonnell]

Purpose of "shelf"? What kind of load do you expect, and what dimensions? Sounds more like you're building a bench...

I'd build the basic frame on a flat floor to make sure the frame ends up being flat. Don't use drywall screws, they're brittle and will snap under load. Consider bracing the lower portion of the legs to prevent the legs from shifting/weakening under load. Or just use concrete block as another post suggested.

[WW]

Can you use 16 inches instead of 12? Just stack two concrete blocks. Put the shelf on top of them. Stronger and cheaper.

They make 4 inch wide blocks also. stick them together with a few dabs of caulking. WW

[Fat-Dumb and Happy]

Here's one guy's solution, I'd do it a little different but you'll get the idea, partial board for strong shelves? No way.... they will sag even when braced.

[Ed Pawlowski]

Depending on the use, particle board may be ideal, or if you have concentrated weight, it will have dips in it. The stuff is cheap, but very flexible compared to other materials.

[Fat-Dumb and Happy]

Here's one guy's solution, I'd do it a little different but you'll get the idea, partial board for strong shelves? No way.... they will sag even when braced.

[Fat-Dumb and Happy]

Here's one guy's solution, I'd do it a little different but you'll get the idea, partial board for strong shelves? No way.... they will sag even when braced.

[Vic Smith]

Unless I knew what's it for, it's hard to say. A single shelf a foot off the floor? Why even attach it to the wall? I'd call it a platform, because it's too low down to call it a workbench. But maybe it is a bench, like for an audience. If the floor is dry and is flat enough, one thing nobody mentioned is what I'll just call "floor shelf." Whatever color you want the shelf to be, just paint the floor that color in whatever size shelf you want. So nobody misunderstands your intent, paint or decal "SHELF" around the border. The real beauty of the floor shelf is when something falls off the shelf to the floor, it doesn't have far to go.

[Vic Smith]

That works. 2x2s would do it if he's not storing lead acid batteries on them. More "elbow" space and better looking. I was thinking of making one set, but then I watched the video every times you posted, and decided making 3 was too much work. Besides, he was putting the shelves in the same spot every time. Didn't make much sense.

[Fat-Dumb and Happy]

I'm blaming it on the NSA, I kept getting a message the reply wouldn't send... so I tried it again... and again.

[Stormin Mormon]

I'm blaming it on the NSA, I kept getting a message the reply wouldn't send... so I tried it again... and again.

[Daniel Prince]

I have two old bookcases and a steel cabinet against the wall. I had several termite mud tunnels behind the bookcases and the cabinet that I could not see. I want to put the bookcases and the cabinet on the shelf with the space under the shelf empty so that I can easily see any termite mud tunnels. The bookcases are lightly loaded but the steel cabinet is full of power tools and extension cords so it is moderately heavy.

Can you recommend screws that are as easy to drive as drywall screws but are not brittle?

[DerbyDad03]

Was does frost have to do with having a basement or not?

... Snip...

[Art Todesco]

Actually, I've never had a DW screw snap under load. Yes, sometimes, in some materials, they will snap while driving them in. But that's a twisting action, not pure shear or tensile. I put up shelves in my garage using a 2x2 frame under each 1/2"+ OSB shelf surface. The verticals are only 1x2s and the diagonal supports on the bottom are

2x2s. All done with drywall screws into the studs in the walls. The frame itself is nailed together with pneumatic finishing nails. I can put my 200+lb body on the shelves with virtually no movement. I actually have a pic of me on the shelf, but I will spare you that site. Check out this pic and the next few. Presently, there is a lot more weight on them than in the pic.

[dpb]

...

If they're only in compression and not shear they'll serve to hold pieces together, but, as noted previously, why? Just nail it together; if you arrange it right all they're doing is holding the pieces in place.

As suggested before just build the square frame and fasten it to the wall then use a few strategically-located legs(+) under for supports. If you either just fit them under (w/ a scab to hold in place) or (better) notch to match, then the weight is all transferred to them and the fasteners aren't doing anything to hold up the weight; that's being borne by the end grain of the legs and the compressive load on the frame/shelf. No need to make it any more complex than needs be...

(+) Since is garage and you've indicated some existing termite issues, I'd suggest using p-treated for the parts touching floor/concrete and the back wall cleat/frame piece. That'll minimize desirability of the pieces that are in contact and not fully visible at least.

[Ed Pawlowski]

Spax screws Check out Lee Valley and McFeelys

[dpb]

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...[big snip for brevity]...

+1

Other than OP may want to keep the (I presume file) cabinet -- if so, that would definitely be candidate for the block support idea so can check underneath...

[Daniel Prince]

My understanding is that in areas that have frost, footings have to go four feet or more underground. Builders often decide that if they have to dig that deep, they might as well dig a little deeper and have a basement they can use for water heaters, furnaces, oil tanks, water filters, water softners, electrical panels, pipe, ductwork and wire runs etc.