Installing a shower rod in ceramic tile ...

Hello, I have a bathtub/shower than reaches 82 inches from wall to wall. THe standard tension rod only extends to 72 inches. I really don't want to drill into the ceramic tile for fear of cracking it. Soooo, does anybody have a suggestion of what alternatives I might try in order to get a rod in place ??

THanks in advance ! skoozy

Reply to
skoozy2002
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That's too far for an extension anyway.

How about putting a couple of screws i n the ceiling?

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or:
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or something similar.

Reply to
Speedy Jim

They do make longer exension rods. A Dremel tool with a burr bit will grind right through ceramic tile without cracking it. I've put up a lot of bath safety rails using my dremel and have never cracked a tile.

Reply to
en30303

I've drilled into ceramic tile many times without any problems. Trick was to use a centre punch (lightly) to mark the spot (I think this helps to release the tile's surface tension) and a masonry bit at moderate speed and pressure. Might not hurt to go to your local building supplier and buy one ceramic tile to experiment first.

Reply to
Brad

drilling ceramic is not hard. Get a scratch awl and use it to scratch the center of your holes. Then use a masonary bit. The scratch from the awl will keep the bit skating. Ceramic tile is not a particularly hard substance and you'll be surprised how quick you'll drill right through.

We installed a new ceramic bath in our old house, and when putting the enclosure I had the same fears as you, but once I tried I found they were unwarranted.

Just make sure you install something that you can live with. It will be impossible to patch up the holes cosmetically if you change to a different style rod that doesn't cover them up.

-Tim

Reply to
Tim Fischer

"Tim Fischer" wrote in news:l-idndDd9Ogayr3YnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

The tile itself is soft.The thin ceramic coating is hard as...well...glass.

Reply to
Al Bundy

Ah suggestions, let me think what I would do.

  1. Glue it. :) Sounds weird but some silcone caulks are pretty tough to move once fully cured.

  1. Drill. I would remember advice I got, about breakign the glaze first and drilling with a mason bit. Breaking the glaze is by using a center punch, and tapping where you want to drill first. However, I would first practice on a few spare tiles I have or can buy from HD so I do it once correctly.

Good luck, tell us what you did.

imho,

tom @

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Reply to
Tom The Great

Once it gets chipped/cracked with the scratch awl, it won't be in the way.

-Tim

Reply to
Tim Fischer

"Tim Fischer" wrote in news:ye-dnVNV0b9eCL3YnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

Makes sense to me Tim. Once the slightest hole/scratch in that glaze/porcelean it's Holes-Are-Us :-)

Reply to
Al Bundy

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