Install hardwood on convex floor

I am installing hard Maple pre-finished harwood floor in my second floor bedroom. The floor seems to slope up a little bit from one end to the other along the length of the room. About 17" from the wall it then slopes down between 1/4" to 1/2'. I started laying down the planks from the good side and after a few row had problem going over the ridge. If the board is long than the edges are not flush. The outer board is slightly higer. Initially I started ensuring that the boards end approx 17"before the wall and use a different piece for the last end. There are 2 problems with this technique. I got a fairly straight joint line about 17" from the wall (offset by an inch or two) and the second is the floor seems to slope over the other side. As I add more rows the slope seems to gradually increase. the boards seem to be sitting fairly tightly on the sub floor with no gaps.
Is this going to create problems for me later? Will the floor open up at the ridge later in the years? I have tried not to bend the planks to fit, thereby avoiding any tension on the wood. I am hoping that this will prevent the wood from snapping out. is there a better way?
I don't want to rip the already laid down floor to fix this. I am also thinking of removing some of the end planks and than place some shimmy's on the end to level the floor. Maybe cut strips of 1/4"ply and place near the wall. Will this work? It may leave a gap between the floor and the sub. Will this cause the floor to squeak later? I need a quick solution as I want to finish the flooring by the next weekend.
Anyone with similar experience, please advise.
Thank You.
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MM wrote:

You'd do better to cut wedges about the length of the drop, i.e. 17", and put one under each board. That way you won't need to have a joint line 17" from the wall as you do now. You didn't say what the subfloor was. If concrete and you are putting down the pre-finished floor with mastic you could fair out the subfloor with thinset. Hell, even if it's wood you could put down a shim along the wall as you mentioned and slop thinset under the last 17" of the planks as they are laid.
One way or another, I'd fair out the subfloor.
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You need to shim that end up now because it will always be a curse.
Easiest way for thin shims are layers of felt paper. No problem with squeeking, cheap and quick. For thicker shims, you might have to go with wood. You do not want to leave it.
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