I need an angle drill for studs and would appreciate any advice.

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I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):
http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-2-speed-1-2-half-inch-right-angle-dril l-97622.html
or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can’t make-up my mind.
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20
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On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. My bits and drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity. Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the extensions.
BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks; perfect for wiring.
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On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake aft er two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit exten sion for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.
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On Feb 23, 9:09 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

ension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling/48-28-4011
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DD_BobK wrote:

two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.

Uh, those all seem to be made to fit a 7/16" inch shank.
You're going to need a lot of KY Jelly to force the 1/2" shank the OP says he has into one of those. <G>
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
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extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.

Jeff-
Unless Milwaukee has changed the geometry of their drill extensions over the last 25 years....... I happen to have a couple of these drill extensions & they work just fine with large diameter twist drills with 1/2" turned down round shanks.
The description in the Milwaukee online catalog is less than 100% clear but my extensions have 7/16" hex on the input end and a ~1/2" diameter hole on the end that accepts the drill bits...
The reason (I believe) that Milwaukee fixates on 7/16" dimension is because their auger bits & hole saw arbors are 7/16" hex. Some mfrs of turned down drill bits make 1/2" diameter round shanks, some 7/16 hex, some a hybrid.
A 7/16" hex is ~1/2" over the hex points......
Unless my style of extension has been obsoleted, these should work just fine.
check my work?
cheers Bob
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in

Operator error

You *break* spade bits?? Yeah, right. Either you buy the crappiest bits in the known universe, or -- more likely IMHO -- you're just lying.

So use a 1" spade bit.
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On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 21:09:22 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has. I've *never* had an auger get stuck. I have had to reverse the bit if the drill I was using didn't have enough power (I rarely use a corded drill and my smaller drills don't have all that much torque). No big deal, just back it off a little and start at it again.
You must be some animal if you're breaking bits.
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On Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:14:15 AM UTC-8, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

nsion for a 1/2 shank which is what a 1 bit has.

I have to work with very old, very dry, very dense California Redwood. It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.
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On Feb 24, 9:28 am, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

tension for a 1/2  shank which is what a 1  bit has.

I lived and worked on our home built circa 1906 from hand cut lumber and true 2 x 4's. I never ran across wood that 'petrified' I did run across finishes that defied removal! Not sandpaper, not chemicals, NOTHING touched it! Well a gallon of stripper per 5 ft square kind of touched it.
However, be EXTREMELY careful. That old wood burns like gunpowder.
PS: My 'trick' is to rock the blade drill around so it can easily cut smaller areas of wood. The hole won't be seen so the weird shape doesn't matter much.
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Rocking a hole saw also makes a wider groove. Which makes removing the plug from the hole saw a lot easier. BTDT.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
PS: My 'trick' is to rock the blade drill around so it can easily cut smaller areas of wood. The hole won't be seen so the weird shape doesn't matter much.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in

There is no such thing. Redwood is one of the *least* dense woods in North America.

Yeah, sure. You're breaking spade bits in redwood. GMAFB.
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You've never seen a grave marker? ;-)
http://www.vermonter.com/hopecemetery-photos.asp
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I'd be thinking high speed, very low feed pressure. And pull the drill out frequently to clear the flutes, and keep the bit from over heating. Maybe compressor and air blow gun to clear the holes every few seconds as you go.
If it's a one house project, buy the HF cheapie drill. If you will use the same drill for several years, get the more expensive one.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .

I have to work with very old, very dry, very dense California Redwood. It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.
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On 2/24/2013 10:14 AM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.

bit in to a point where it gets stuck, generally from lack of power in the right angle drill, then I can't back it out because too much material is behind the bit. I prefer to use a sharp spade bit. Dewalt makes some really heavy duty ones, unlike Irwin. This way I can take smaller bites and pull the material out of the hole. He could also use a Forstner bit.
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after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.

Since I got the Irwin Speedbors I haven't used a spade bit (though I have many)[*]. They dull too quickly and are a PITA when working at odd angles. I've never gotten one *stuck*, as in permanently. Sure they get chips wedged behind them, if you're not careful. Sometimes it may take 30 seconds to get one out. I don't call that "stuck". It's worth it for the ease of drilling. The extensions make it an even better solution (thought spades would work the same).
I don't see how a Forstner bit won't clear any better than an auger/speedbor.
[*]I loaned my set to the guy installing our satellite system and he was duly impressed. He said he was stopping by the Borg on the way home to buy a set.
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On Feb 23, 8:57 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Take a look at Rockwell's 3rill. 3R62HARD3P 62pc 3RILL with lifetime batteries. Came with two batteries, I swap while working and could never run out of battery during heavy work load, the batteries just recharge too fast. It came with a right angle widget, which has around 1 inch 'overhead' You can drill in some really tight spaces with it. Has extensions, too so you can reach through multiple studs/joists. The 1 inch blade I've used several times on studs even almost on a knot with little chatter just required a bit of patience going through the hard area.
My wife got it for me as a birthday present for using on drywall screws, but the thing works so well I keep expanding where I use it.
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On Saturday, February 23, 2013 7:57:19 PM UTC-8, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I bought the Milwaukee. It went through the studs like butter. I also bought the three year extended warranty for $60.00. I didn’t trust the Chinese to do a proper job. Now I have a eight year warranty which lets me sleep at night. I figured $349.00 + $60.00 + $31.41 tax = $440.41 / 8 years = $55.05 a year
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com writes:

You bought insurance to protect yourself from a $349 loss?

You can't sleep at night because you might have an unplanned $349 loss?

Extended warranties are calculated by insurance companies to make a profit - for the insurance company.
When I worked at an insurance company they explained that insurance is not gambling. Don't buy it expecting to make a profit. Buy insurance when you can't afford the loss.
--
Dan Espen

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On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:28:18 AM UTC-8, net cop wrote:

The last extended warranty that I bought was for my laptop. Since Moore’s law has stalled it has paid me three times the cost of the original computer so far and I still have two more years to go. This "Made in China" for Milwaukee is a new development. I expect the worst.
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