How to use penetrating oil?

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I have a 1940s era Hamilton Beach malt mixer and would like to replace the power cord. In order to do so I need to remove the metal base cover.
The base cover is held in place by screws that are recessed into the rubber feet and the screws are badly rusted and/or corroded. Only the screw heads are exposes (and recessed).
I've used penetrating oil years ago on bolts with nuts where the threads were at least partially accessible, but am unsure how to approach the current problem.
Ideas?
TIA
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Wayne Boatwright wrote:

Carefully drill off the heads, while applying upward pressure on the rubber feet with a putty knife shoved between the rubber and the baseplate. Idea is you want enough of the screw shaft sticking out to grab with visegrips, and rotate out of the hole. Take the cut screw to a hardware store, and find something 'close enough' in stainless, to replace it.
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aem sends...

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Or, cut off the rubber feet and then maybe you can get some pliers on the screw heads. Rubber feet can be bought at most quality hardware stores.
Hank
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wrote:

Get the mixer in a stable position either on its side or upside down and insert a screwdriver into the screw and push HARD against the screw. At the same time apply a rotating force as if to loosen it but not enough to have the screwdrive slip. Whack the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer. Sometimes the shock of the hammer blow will break the screw free.
You could also try an impact driver which you can get at almost anyplace that sells tools. You will just need an adapter to get down to the the right size bit. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver
I doubt any type of oil will work because it needs to get to the threads an it won't be able to get around the rubber. You might be able to just pry the feet off around the screw head then grab the screw with vise-grips. When you put it back together a washer will most likely hold the feet on if they get damaged.
If the cord is not damaged right near the base you can safely patch a new cord on or just buy a replacement end. http://www.tools-plus.com/eagle-4867.html?utm_medium=feed&utm_source=froogle&utm_term=EAG4867
Good luck!
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I would try all those destructive suggestions later. Most of which should work.
First I would secure the mixer upside down and fill the little recess in the feet with the oil.
Protect the base and the surrounding area with lots of paper towels. The oil needs time to seep and work the magic.
24 hours later try removal and repeat the process if needed.
Since this is an older unit, probably designed as a commercial model, you may find brass or SS bore and screws which are just stuck and corroded from age and use.
Colbyt
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On Fri 02 Oct 2009 07:33:23a, Colbyt told us...

Yes, this is a commercial model bought at auction from a drug store with a soda fountain. Thanks, I'll give it a shot, adding the oil today and try working the screws out tomorrow.
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On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 15:14:45 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

I don't know how big the screws are but would it be possible to drill into the screw head and use a screw extractor to get them out?
Just a thought.
Gordon Shumway
One positive thing about 'Cash for Clunkers' is that it took thousands of Obama bumper stickers off the road.
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The first choice would be to get them to back out, whatever way works without destroying the slot. Last resort, drill and EZ Out.
Steve
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On Sat 03 Oct 2009 07:34:33p, SteveB told us...

the
a
try
Yes, I'm hoping to get them to back out, although as long as I can replace the screws with new ones, any methohd to get them out would be acceptable. My worst fear is breaking them off and not being able to get them out.
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Wayne give the oil plenty of time to work.
Over a 6 month period treating it once or twice a month I freed up a rusted chuck on a perfectly good old craftsman drill enough to get the bit out and the rest was quick work. I still use that drill with the same chuck to mix paint.
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On Sun 04 Oct 2009 06:20:31a, Colbyt told us...

Thanks for the tip, Colby. I'll work with this patiently.
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On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 13:27:34 GMT, Wayne Boatwright

I've found that the oil will penetrate the threads with a little vibration. Soak it and give it a tap with a sacrificial screwdriver -using a small hammer. Take all the time you need...
And " give the oil plenty of time to work."
It can take days to get a head bolt out of an outboard engine that is froze and has been only in salt water :-/
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On Sun 04 Oct 2009 02:47:35p, Oren told us...

Thanks, Oren. Good tips!
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I had to remove an alternator from my boat. It was down on the bottom of the I/O engine and since the bilge had flooded, salt water got on the bolts. I got one out OK but the lower one was "frozen" Big Time.
After much wrenching and almost totally rounding off the bolt head, I decided to try the Penetrating Oil/ Tap Tap method. I went down there each night after work, re-applied the oil and gave it a few good raps with a hammer. It took a week but finally I got it off.
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Then I wouldn't start out by drilling, as Shumway suggested. Have you tried a light impact driver yet after soaking in PB Blaster or Kroil?
Steve
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On Sun 04 Oct 2009 07:40:23a, SteveB told us...

I haven't tried anything yet, Steve, as I'm still weighing my options. I am, however, going to up end the mixer this afternoon and add the oil to each foot so I can allow it to soak. I'm not plannin to drill, in any case.
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I'd turn it over so gravity can get the penetrating oil down into the threads, then hit it a few times LIGHTLY with an impact driver with a small head on it. After that, I have no idea. Lots of those were aluminum or aluminum/magnesium alloy, and they gall terribly with time to the point of corroding into one mass.
Steve
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On Sat 03 Oct 2009 05:53:40p, SteveB told us...

The base is made of cast iron. The screws must be some type of ferrous metal, since they are rusted. I agree, turning it upside down and allowing the oil to (hopefully) work its way down to the threads is probably my best bet. The screws are small. I'd be afraid of using an impact driver. That's an item I don't have anyway. Although maybe a few taps using a blunt ended tip and a hammer might help to break it loose.
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Maybe just take a small screwdriver tip (the one inch size, not a whole screwdriver) of the same configuration (straight or Phillips) and hit it into the slot LIGHTLY to see if you can break loose the crud in the slot and get a tip in deep enough to get torque.
Steve
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On Sun 04 Oct 2009 07:43:02a, SteveB told us...

That sounds like a preferable way to try for the first time, and far less destructive.
Thanks, Steve...
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