how to remove bulb "frozen" in socket

Pliers are often too big for the job, not fitting between the base of the broken bulb and the socket. I've often had to remove broken bulb bases. I use scissors. Of course, that's not trying to CUT the base, but using them sideways as thin pliers.

Reply to
Mark Lloyd
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Sometimes there IS an advantage to wearing glasses.

Reply to
Mark Lloyd

Hey dude, don't knock it until you try it! I've done over a hundred like that and have never had one break in my hand. If you're that safety conscious, keep an old exterior flood light for the job.

Reply to
Bob

Turn the power off, break the bulb, and then jam one leg of a pair of needle nosed pliers between the remains of the bulb and the socket.

Now twist the pliers like you are opening up an old fashioned can of tuna. The remnants of the bulb should tear and start to wind up on the nose of the pliers.

Reply to
tnom

mm wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

lol. Good one.

Reply to
Al Bundy

Mark Lloyd wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Lotsa kinds of pliers out there!

Reply to
Al Bundy

snipped-for-privacy@mucks.net wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Brings back memories of opening up a can of "chum" down by the river feeeeshin' :-)

Reply to
Al Bundy

Silicone (grease or spray) and/or dielectric grease is a bad idea - they are insulators!

Reply to
Bob M.

Use a PVC-coated glove. It will grip the glass far better, so you don't have to squeeze as hard, greatly increasing your chances of not breaking the bulb.

How about putting a touch of anti-seize compound on the threads of the new bulb before installing? Can anyone confirm/refute that? Or, how about spraying the threads with Molybdenum Disulfide?

Reply to
Ether Jones

Dielectric grease is a insulator, but it does not cause a problem with the electrical connection. It also does not contain any materials that may corrode common electrical contacts. It forms a barrier to O² H²O and other possible sources of corrosion while providing a lubricant as well. It is recommended for light bulbs among other things.

Reply to
Joseph Meehan

We had a similar problem. Using some basic science, since metal contracts when cold, we applied a cold pack to the neck of the light arm on the fan light unit until it got cold. Bulb came right out.

Reply to
pbock54

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