The tests I did were with plywood (1/2 - 3/4) stapled to a 2x4
flatwise as the "receiving" member.
The staples were Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown fired from an M2 stapler.
Samples made with clusters of 5 staples were tested & yielded about
250 lbs per staple peak load.
Based on load vs deflection (deflections at peak load were quite
large) I chose to use 50bs, where deflection was well below 1/16" as
a "design load"
For long staples (2") that resulted in 1 1/4" or more staple
engagement, fastener withdrawal did not occur.
The staples remained in the receiving member and "mushed over / pulled
through" the plywood
For shorter staples, that resulted in less than 1" staple engage,
staple withdrawal occurred and peak loads were lower.
Staple orientation seemed to have an effect on deflection at peak
strength but not peak strength.
The reason I like staples is that they don't damage the receiving
member as much as larger nails and (imo) they can approach the
behavior of factory installed truss plates better than nailed
People tend to focus on strength of a connection but timber
connections have both strength and stiffness characteristics and
depending on the situation, one can be more important than the other.
The problem is I don't have a compressor to drive the palm nailer anyways,
so either way I think I need to spend some money on something to make the
job easier. I have three areas in the attic to use this on, so it will help
me greatly if this is a time and elbow grease saver. I deliberately waited
till winter time to do this project because summer time in Miami up in the
attic at 105 degrees in an awkward position is not fun, further more I
recently strained my back so that also made it harder for me to have the
maximum effect on hammering.
Looking further ahead on my fasteners need in my never ending remodeling
job, I am going to subcontract the sheet rock and flooring, so I don't need
to worry about that myself. I will need to repair some 1/2" thick wood
soffit ceiling panels "Ply-Bead" that I need to either nail or staple, I
have 7 rooms of baseboards and interior door trims which I will do myself
(finish nailers), and quite a few furring strips and panels I need to attach
to concrete walls (to attach cabinets and shelving and industrial lighting),
so perhaps if I look ahead if might pay for me to invest in a good
compressor and some air tools. I would rather get fewer good quality tools
then a bunch of one off items.
Is there an air tool that would do finish nailing, structural nailing, and
also punch wood into concrete?
I haven't hired a pro for anything but autowork in 30 years. Yet
it was just a couple years ago that I bought my [first] compressor.
Shaking my head now when I think of how much I could have used it over
I have a cheap Harbor freight job- 10gallons, rated 2HP- about $120 on
sale. It is a little slow for grinding, die cutting and
sandblasting. But I've nailed, painted, blown things clean, etc to my
For nailers I have a Porter Cable FR350 framer that drives 3 1/2" full
headed nails; a Bostitch finish nailer that drives 1" to 2" finish
nails; and a couple $10 brad nailers and staplers from Harbor Freight.
Driving finish nails and not having to go back and set them is a real
pleasure. The brad nailers are pretty handy, too. I don't do a
lot of framing but if I did I can see where the framer would be a big
timesaver. For me it just saves my elbow joints.
For attaching framing lumber to concrete I like Tapcons. There is a
T-nailer that drives hardened nails, but I've never seen one at work.
I have seen a tool someone used to attach PT 1x form work to concrete walls.
It drives a nail into the wood and concrete and the nail has a plastic
orange gear looking like tail attached to it. I wonder what that tool is,
is it a nailer?
You can buy: Ramset 22 Caliber Single Shot Trigger Activated Powder
Actuated Tool - RS22 * Liquid Nails and a Ramset will do the job. Is
this just block walls or a solid poured wall?
HD had a hammer activated one for 20 bucks or so.
Block wall in most areas and solid poured walls in a few other locations.
Yes I think it is a ramset. For some reason I have always assumed it's an
air tool of some sort. So I can go with gas tools or air tools?
Each wall may require a different load (color). Block and a solid wall
loads are different.
Ramset is gun-powder/rim fire shot. A good load/fastener will
Use butyl caulk and few shots fired the wood stay on the wall.
After browsing around the internet trying to get educated...I came across
says it will do framing, trusses, decks, and drive into concrete. So except
for finish nailing, it will serve all my needs from framing, to reinforcing
existing studs, to attic truss and framing repair, to attaching furring
strips to concrete walls...I think.
then all I need is a finish nailer for baseboards and trim later.
1. You've got to use special (clipped head) nails. I'm not sure you can zip
down to HD and pick up a pack.
2. Framing nailers are the 12-guage shotguns of the nailer world. They are
POWERFUL devices and require eye and ear protection, a STRONG right arm
(they're heavy), and a bulletproof vest (groin protection encouraged).
3. For baseboards and trim you'll want a BRAD nailer. It'll shoot up to a 2"
brad easily. I got one for $20 from Harbor Freight and couldn't be more
One difference between a framing nailer and a plam nailer is this: The
framing nailer goes "POW!" and with the release of energy equivalent to
1/8th of a stick of dynamite throws a 3" piece of steel into a hunk of
lumber. A palm nailer goes tappity-tap-tap-tap (like a hammer) until the
same result is achieved.
For handyman stuff around the house, I'd start with a palm nailer.
Good tool. I've used a Senco 365 framer for years...indispensible.
Before you buy a clipped head tool though, check with your building
code people. Some high wind communities do not allow them. Pros like
the clipped heads because you don't run out of 'bullets' as often.
Full head nails naturally are a bit better at holding things together,
and for the typical DIYer, reloading is seldom an issue.
Senco nails are a top grade product. With the variety they have
available you can spend more than you think stocking the precise
fastener you prefer for a project. Remember not to use the nailer to
draw pieces together. Clamp first, then nail. HTH.
Senco is a good name--- but I'd be sure I don't always have to go to
the internet for nails. I didn't even know they made anything but the
gas nailers. Home Depot carries those around here. My brother in law
has one and it is the only place that sells the nails locally-- and
they never have the size he wants.
Second Joe's comment to be sure your local codes allow snipped heads.
And second Heybub's that framing nailers are the "12 ga shotgun"--
they are heavy, loud and kick like heck.
I think I'd also check to be sure it will nail fir strips to concrete
walls. Cool if it does- but they don't seem to bragging much on it
in the manual.
The New Craftman nailer tool is a Battery operated nailer, very small,
But a cheap Remington gun nail driver is quicker and a heavy duty
tool, and you will get a bang out of work. The Craftsman will only
give you a buzz.
They *are* gun shots. A 22 cartridge. How loud depends on the load...more
powder = more noise. It also = more driving force and therin lies the
problem...selecting the correct load for the work at hand. Too low and the
nail won't penetrate fully; too high and you may well wind up with the nail
driven completely through a board. One can't use the same load to attach a
piece of soft wood to concrete block that one would use to attach it to
concrete. Concrete varies in hardness too. Sometimes from spot to spot.
Rub the hammer head's striking surface on concrete every once in a while
to replace the "polished" surface with slight roughness. (That's what I
was taught by a carpenter, about 50 years ago.)
Or, get a hammer with a "waffle marked" striking surface.
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