That is the best simple idea I've heard in quite some time. Thanks.
I just bought a couple of new hammers ($2.99 each at HF) with heads so smooth you could comb your mustache by using them as mirrors.
I'm gonna take my Dremel and carve a waffle pattern on the faces.
At 2.99 each, you're not ruining much. If I caught you grinding the face of one of my hammers, you might not survive. You will destroy the case hardening and make a good club out of them.
They were regularly $3.99, but on sale. Does that make a difference?
The tests I did were with plywood (1/2 - 3/4) stapled to a 2x4 flatwise as the "receiving" member.
The staples were Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown fired from an M2 stapler.
Samples made with clusters of 5 staples were tested & yielded about
250 lbs per staple peak load. Based on load vs deflection (deflections at peak load were quite large) I chose to use 50bs, where deflection was well below 1/16" as a "design load"For long staples (2") that resulted in 1 1/4" or more staple engagement, fastener withdrawal did not occur. The staples remained in the receiving member and "mushed over / pulled through" the plywood
For shorter staples, that resulted in less than 1" staple engage, staple withdrawal occurred and peak loads were lower.
Staple orientation seemed to have an effect on deflection at peak strength but not peak strength.
The reason I like staples is that they don't damage the receiving member as much as larger nails and (imo) they can approach the behavior of factory installed truss plates better than nailed connections.
People tend to focus on strength of a connection but timber connections have both strength and stiffness characteristics and depending on the situation, one can be more important than the other.
cheers Bob
Yes, you wasted one less dollar.
Unless you are buying a tool for a one time throw away thing, it does not pay to save a couple of dollars buying substandard tools.
Those $ 4.00 hammers may be ok to drive in a couple of small nails for hanging pictures and such, but to drive a real nail to anchor a couple of
2x4s you need a good hammer.
But I use nails made in China, so it averages out.
The trick is to sharpen the nails with a grinder before driving them. Cheap grinder is okay.
"MiamiCuse" wrote in news:_fadnQf1kvzfpc_UnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@dsli.com:
Wait till you try box nails someday :-)
Bob:
Thanks,
The problem is I don't have a compressor to drive the palm nailer anyways, so either way I think I need to spend some money on something to make the job easier. I have three areas in the attic to use this on, so it will help me greatly if this is a time and elbow grease saver. I deliberately waited till winter time to do this project because summer time in Miami up in the attic at 105 degrees in an awkward position is not fun, further more I recently strained my back so that also made it harder for me to have the maximum effect on hammering.
Looking further ahead on my fasteners need in my never ending remodeling job, I am going to subcontract the sheet rock and flooring, so I don't need to worry about that myself. I will need to repair some 1/2" thick wood soffit ceiling panels "Ply-Bead" that I need to either nail or staple, I have 7 rooms of baseboards and interior door trims which I will do myself (finish nailers), and quite a few furring strips and panels I need to attach to concrete walls (to attach cabinets and shelving and industrial lighting), so perhaps if I look ahead if might pay for me to invest in a good compressor and some air tools. I would rather get fewer good quality tools then a bunch of one off items.
Is there an air tool that would do finish nailing, structural nailing, and also punch wood into concrete?
MC
-snip-
I haven't hired a pro for anything but autowork in 30 years. Yet it was just a couple years ago that I bought my [first] compressor. Shaking my head now when I think of how much I could have used it over the years.
I have a cheap Harbor freight job- 10gallons, rated 2HP- about $120 on sale. It is a little slow for grinding, die cutting and sandblasting. But I've nailed, painted, blown things clean, etc to my hearts content.
For nailers I have a Porter Cable FR350 framer that drives 3 1/2" full headed nails; a Bostitch finish nailer that drives 1" to 2" finish nails; and a couple $10 brad nailers and staplers from Harbor Freight.
Driving finish nails and not having to go back and set them is a real pleasure. The brad nailers are pretty handy, too. I don't do a lot of framing but if I did I can see where the framer would be a big timesaver. For me it just saves my elbow joints.
For attaching framing lumber to concrete I like Tapcons. There is a T-nailer that drives hardened nails, but I've never seen one at work.
Jim
Jim Elbrecht wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Ditto
Ditto
and more ditto.
The New Craftman nailer tool is a Battery operated nailer, very small, But a cheap Remington gun nail driver is quicker and a heavy duty tool, and you will get a bang out of work. The Craftsman will only give you a buzz.
I have seen a tool someone used to attach PT 1x form work to concrete walls. It drives a nail into the wood and concrete and the nail has a plastic orange gear looking like tail attached to it. I wonder what that tool is, is it a nailer?
Sounds like a Ramset-
Jim
You can buy: Ramset 22 Caliber Single Shot Trigger Activated Powder Actuated Tool - RS22 * Liquid Nails and a Ramset will do the job. Is this just block walls or a solid poured wall?
HD had a hammer activated one for 20 bucks or so.
Probably a .22 caliber powered driver, cheap, and does concrete.
Block wall in most areas and solid poured walls in a few other locations. Yes I think it is a ramset. For some reason I have always assumed it's an air tool of some sort. So I can go with gas tools or air tools?
Thanks but I hesitate to use lag bolts because they need much bigger holes and tend to take away too much materials from the framing.
This may sound "different" but have you considered "glue"? There are some spectacular "glues" out there these days.
Lou
Each wall may require a different load (color). Block and a solid wall loads are different.
Ramset is gun-powder/rim fire shot. A good load/fastener will penetrate.
Use butyl caulk and few shots fired the wood stay on the wall.
Would like to know if anybody has tried one of these yet? Would be a nice toy to have around beings that they don't create a lot of vibration and would be great to use in a pinch on attaching things to plaster.
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