How to paint a steel trailer

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Seems to me that a pickup is about $450-600. Right? I've seen pics of Iggy's trailer, and it doesn't look any bigger than a longbed pickup box.
Iggy, I'd get another quote.
Steve
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It is about as big as a long bed box (a little longer, at 110" long). I agree, I need another quote. If I could put bedliner on the bed as well as around the sides, for say $500, I would do it.
i
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I did my pickup bed for $460 or so. So you may have gotten a better deal, but close. The $900 quote was for the trailer bed, inside and over the top. Now, if you can suggest a cheaper place, not too far from Chicago, I am all ears.
i
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Ignoramus322 wrote:

Iggy
I sent a reply off list to your email but not sure if it went through, did you get it?
Paul
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Paul, sorry, I did not get your messages, my email addresses are ichudov AT algebra DOT com and ichudov At yahoo DOT com.
igor
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wrote:

My thoughts, also. A small sandblaster would make fast work for the serious rust spots.
-- Oren
"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."
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Doing Rhino inside only would cost me about $900.
As far as sandblasting goes, I am quite open minded since I have a "Real 5 HP" compressor and could, in principle, do sandblasting.
I assume that you are referring to those sandblasting guns that work in the open, without a tent or some such, around.
i
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Um... Iggy... there MUST be a tent. But in this case, you should wear it, rather than putting it up around the trailer.
(still pickin' grit outta my teeth from the LAST sandblasting exercise!)
LLoyd
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On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 13:31:49 -0500, Ignoramus322

I have two small blasters. Just a small hopper, short hose and the gun attaches to the compressor hose. I've used several types of blast material. A cheap one is just simple play sand, sold near you. Crushed pecan shells, etc. My favorite was called Black Witch.
Oh, a face shield.
This approach to blasting will help in the corners and tight spaces.
Years ago I found a product in the auto stores for rust called Extend. Once to clean metal, spray this stuff on. I think Loctite Co bought the brand is now on their site.
You have a compressor and you may be able to rent a blaster for the day. One of mine is Craftsman brand. IIRC, $59.00 back then.
Save the $900.00 (G). -- Oren
"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."
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wrote:

To help reduce the amount of time you spend physically removing the rust, just get rid of the loose stuff with the wire wheel then spray the hell out of it with something like picklex-20 or prep-step. Once those have dried you are now all set to paint.
I'm guessing that the zinc paint is like the others that I've seen that use an epoxy base to adhere the zinc, so it should be fairly tough. You can paint over that stuff too.
I did a home job bedliner in my old truck, just reduced with the appropriate thinner and sprayed it. Hardest part was prepping the bed, the spraying too almost no time at all.
I would vote for removing the camo and matching your truck, most auto body stores will get a pretty good color match made up for you.
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wrote:

Thanks. About a month ago, I wirebrushed and painted with that zinc paint, an area in the bed about 12x15". I will soon experiment to see how well it adheres and what happens to it after several rains that we had.
The "zinc cold galvanizing paint", actually, is a decent color match for my pickup.
If the bedliner would stick to the paint, I think that I would like to paint with zinc paint to prevent corrosion, and spray bedliner on top of that.
i
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wrote:

Should hold up great as long as the surface prep was sufficient. A good brush down would do it. Zinc paints pretty good stuff since its epoxy based, and the zinc should act like hot dip (self healing).

I used the herculiner brand, and it seemed to stick to just about anything. My only concern would be if the solvent in the mix would interact with the epoxy poorly. Herculiner uses Xylene (and to spray you'll be cutting it with more xylene), which is a good solvent for many epoxies.
Should just loosen up the top layer to help it stick.
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wrote:

I tried, today, to scratch that paint with a hardwood stick. It could not be scratched.

OK. Thanks Marc.
i
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On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 20:44:01 -0500, Ignoramus322 wrote:

I have found that zinc rich (93%) paint to be quite soft, and it scratches easily. Seems to work - I have some brackets I made several years ago and after 5 years outside, there is no rust with 2 coats of zinc paint on them. I suggest 2 coats of zinc paint, etc prime and 2 coats of enamel, and make sure you get into all the corners and crevices. Geoff
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wrote:

Ig, if you don't mind I would like to ask a related question ....what color should a person paint a trailer and why?
Thanks
TMT
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I do not know... I just hope to find some color that would not make dirt too visible.
i
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