That makes intuitive, logical sense.
Which is all the more reason to get a couple legal
opinions because very little about _Tapley v. Peterson_
seems intuitive or logical to me.
Note that the word 'interruption' has a specific
legal meaning that has very little to do with the
English word 'interruption'. :)
This cite, at least, implies very heavily that your
neighbor was not *legally* interrupted unless you
brought *legal action* against him to prevent him
from parking on your property. If he parks there
after you go home, he had 'uninterrupted' use of
the property, *legally speaking*, based on the
This is hugely scary stuff!
--Winston <-- If he offers to improve the property with a nice
new concrete pad, alarm bells should go off for you.
On Oct 15, 12:36 am, Ignoramus17081 <ignoramus17...@NOSPAM.
Nope, it becomes more than simple permission when you put
it on paper -- all sorts of contractual rights become implied
and it establishes something of a tenancy/occupancy right
which must be terminated under the appropriate process
required by your local laws...
As for adverse possession, what ought to work is a rental contract. One
requirement of a contract is that there be "consideration" (=payment).
While payment is most often in money, this is not actually required, and
some of the consideration can be in the form of snowplow services.
But, talk to your lawyer. Adverse possession cases don't happen all
On Thu, 13 Oct 2011 20:24:30 -0500, Ignoramus21718
If you plan to use that hard-tire forklift and a pallet jack, engine
hoist and the crane beam and such out that back door, the only real
solution is a concrete trench drain with cast iron grates that have a
high enough point-load rating to handle the tires and cast iron
NDS has a system with precast plastic trench drains with built-in
slope to the end that has the underground drain line - And they have
center drain receivers if there's an old-style single drain in the
middle of the doorway and you want to use that line.
Best part is, it's got Rebar Holders built into the sections so you
can set the grade with rebar stakes and lock it down before embedding
it in concrete. You still want a slight dip down from the doorway to
the drain, but it doesn't need to be much - 1/8" to 1/4" you can
muscle a pallet jack over.
For heavy traffic areas like that loading door they sell galvanized
steel frames for over the top to hold cast iron traffic grates. You
set the plastic trench drain about an inch deeper to make room for the
steel load frame, and allow extra width for the concrete bedding on
The rubber threshold is a nice idea, but you'll be damaging it a lot,
and cussing at it even more.
I have to do this at home on a double garage door... But I have to
wait till I core the curb and bring the drain line in, so I know the
depth of trench at the out-flow end - it needs to be flow-through from
the front yard at the other end, and I can't waste any fall.
If you need to stop the last few drops, you put a rubber sweep on the
bottom of the roll-up door - which magically moves up and out of the
way when you open the door.
--<< Bruce >>--
On Oct 13, 9:24 pm, Ignoramus21718 <ignoramus21...@NOSPAM.
As others have suggested, a proper trench drain located in front
of the doors -- not a plastic one but a proper commercial grade
one with the cast iron or steel cover plate for the trench as you
wouldn't want to hear a loud *crunch* when you drive over it with
Won't be cheap but it would solve your issue once and for all...
You could put in a shallow V shaped drainage swale in front of the
door to direct the water away, I would dig out the asphalt for a good
two feet in front of the door and use portland cement concrete with
Won't keep wind driven water out of the building, but it will redirect
water from a normal rainstorm around and away.
--<< Bruce >>--
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