How to make a concrete driveway last?


Now that I have my nice new concrete driveway, what can I do to make it last? In my neighborhood, there is a lot of badly erroded concrete. Is there anything that can be done to prevent this? Any coatings that don't look ugly, but actually extend the life of the cement?
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On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 15:19:45 -0700, "Ook" <Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the Don't send me any freakin' spam> wrote:

If you want to make the driveway last, make everything else first.

Keep it wet for at least a few days after it is poured, a week is even better.
Didn't they used to use burlap for that? Is it that there's not enough scrap burlap these days? Someone mentioned hay, or a sprinkler.
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Are you saying the 30-year old driveway was good until you used salt on it?
And that caused divots?
I'd been led to believe that after a year or two it was safe to use salt.
(and I used a little this year for the first time in 28 years.)

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Ook wrote:

Well you already are past some of the most important.
First is the foundation. The gravel base under the concrete and preparation. Next is the design including re-bar, wire, thickness, and strength rating of the concrete. Next is the installation. For example under working or over working the concrete will make for a weak surface that will scale very easy.
Now, assuming it was just put in, you can keep it damp for at least a few days to a week or so. That will allow it to cure slowly and develop full strength. Drying means it will not properly cure and will always be weak.
After that, keeping salt off, especially during the first year is important. Other than than trying to keep stains off it so it looks nice is about it.
--
Joseph Meehan

Dia \'s Muire duit
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On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 15:19:45 -0700, "Ook" <Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the Don't send me any freakin' spam> wrote:

imho, i was told:
The first steps would have a good contractor. Using washed ag, and covering your concrete with plastic, to retard evapaoration too fast.
Then don't use rock salt at all. Any icemelt you do use is to break up the ice, and then remove it with a shovel. Don't let any product just sit on you concrete.
I was warned about keeping my car well maintained since oils and fluids could react with the concrete as well.
Just what I was told.
tom @ www.FreelancingProjects.com
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after the concrete has cured, perhaps 6 months apply liberal amount of thompsons water seal. it penetrates the concrete so water can get in the poors freeze and cause breaking up of the surface. it will darken the surface but is well worth it.
first application poor on spread with broom, after that all you will need is a light coating.
concrete fails because water gets in the surface. thompsons also protects from damage by rock salt. again it cant get into thje poors and cause grief.
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wrote:

Now I'm not a Thompsons fan, because I heard this story. When used on horizontal surfaces, it causes water to easily puddle. Which can freeze and turn your walking areas into ice skating rings.
Just what I was told.
tom @ www.FreelancingProjects.com
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How about the apparent eroding of concrete by water? Here in Oregon it rains a lot (like most of the time) and if you can find a slab partly protected from the rain, you will immediately see how the concrete has eroded from the rain water.
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