If you want to play with toys, not guess, and always know when the
filter needs changing put a filter-check device on your furnace (like
is used on large engine air-filtes). It is just a differential
pressure guage - can be as simple as a manometer tube connected across
the filter - from the air return duct to the return plenum of the
furnace. A plugged filter will have a higher differential pressure
than a clean one.
That is what we used at work on the large building air filters. They had a
motor on them so we could roll them up some when the pressure differential
reached a certain level. They were on a large roll at the bottom and the
takeup roll at the top.
There was a pickup tube on each side of the filter.
Some were gauges with alarm switches,and some were simple fluid indicators.
On Thursday, October 1, 2015 at 11:40:49 AM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
Excessive chatter deleted.
Well, I do.
I don't suspect what other people do with their smoke alarms.
Not my business.
More chatter deleted.
I don't "discover" the filter needs to be changed. Remember,
I said I write it on my calendar. Also, I DO keep spare
filters on hand, just like I keep spare batteries on hand
for the smoke detectors and those batteries are also used
for clocks and remotes.
The biggest problem with staying stocked up on batteries is
that it is getting harder and harder to find a pack of
batteries that qualifies, at least to me, as 'that will
be enough to keep me going for a little while'. The packs
are getting bigger and bigger.
Planning on replacing particular batteries at particular times
(instead of letting the device complain when *it* wants the battery
to be replaced) means you can buy what you need and *when* you
will need it. Instead of finding a place to *store* (isn't that
what "stores" do?) those additional cells!
Costco has some eneloops going on sale...
what I am talking about is the fact that the packages they
come in are growing. It used to be you could buy packs of
2 AA cells. Then it went to 4, not you are lucky to find a
pack of 8. I prefer to keep enough on hand replace the
batteries in one remote, and get more when I run that bunch
Yes. Even if you *can* find a "small package" that isn't
"stale" -- because no one seems to want to buy in small lots
(I recall Leno joking that Costco is now selling caskets!
But, you've got to buy *6*...) -- you end up having to buy
the tiny packages at places that are outrageously priced.
Like "the qwikie mart", a *clothing* store, etc.
So, why buy 2 when you can buy 12? Ans: cuz then you have
to *store* 12 -- and, hope they actually work when/if you need
them ("Gee, I *thought* I bought some of these a while ago...
where did I *put* them?")
The AA/AAA rechargeables are less of a problem for us. We have
one of those tiny chargers that holds *just* four cells and
hangs directly off the electric outlet. So, we know exactly
where our "spares" are stored.
I have bigger/fancier chargers that will charge 8 D's, AA's, AAA's
9V, etc. But, we have so few things that use anything *other* than
AA and AAA that its foolish to purchase those sizes -- and leave
them sitting on/in/near a charger for the year or so it might take
for that *one* device to need new batteries!
[The AA/AAA see lots of turnover because *something* always needs
new AA/AAA batteries!]
I can still buy 2-packs of AA and AAA batteries - but they cost
almost the same as a 4 or 6 pack when they go on sale. The 2 packs are
never on sale. With batteries now having 10 year shelf life, buying 24
for $8 makes a lot more sense than buying 2 for $4.
What helps is eliminating D and C cells. I don't use my D cell
Maglites any more, and probably will plain throw them away soon.
I use AA and AAA for all my flashlights. LED. PC keyboards, mice,
remotes use the same.
I use some remaining Eneloops, and Sony NiMH, with 2 Sony chargers.
One loaded with AA, the other AAA.
Still have to pick up some buttons and 9v occasionally.
But I resist buying anything using other than AA or AAA.
For "around the house", they are pretty much overkill. There
are times when I'm trying to peer deep into the engine compartment
(lots of obstructions, shadows, etc.) that benefit from their brighter,
more focused light (than the little "penlight" or "cranklight"
If I need to look "down the road" or into a neighbor's back yard,
I'll drag out the Thor-X or something similarly sized.
But, to peer behind a computer (located UNDER my workbenches)
or under a bed, etc., a little 2 AA cell maglite works just fine.
Or, the three cell HD give(throw)aways.
Someone once claimed that AA and D cells were essentially the same
"internals", just different shells. I'd find that hard to believe
(unless it's akin to the "11 oz Coors" scam). One *hopes* the
big, heavy, bulky D cells are actually *giving* you something
for the extra size/weight!
Many of my devices have special "battery packs" (not counting the
obvious candidates: laptops, cameras, etc.). One of my "digital
magnifying glasses" uses the Sony "SmartLithium" modules that
they used in their cameras. Many other things just require me
to plug in a "charger" (wall wart) and the batteries charge
inside the unit.
Exactly. I can buy 2032's in quantity as there are so many
things that now use them; just keep them handy and "next time"
I'm inside a computer, pull the old battery and replace it.
It's amusing how 9v "transistor" batteries have fallen from
favor since the days of youth (in "transistor" radios). Aside
from the smoke/CO detectors, I can' think of anything that
uses them (so, why keep them on hand IN ANTICIPATION of a
Blood glucose meters if you have a diabetic in the house, some good
multimeters, my old garage door opener, the transmitter for my radio
controlled "wire puller" (an old R/C truck that runs across suspended
ceilings pulling network cables). I generally have a six-pack of them
available - buy them when Canadian Tire has a good sale on, for less
than a normal 4-pack - and often less than a 2-pack.
On 10/3/2015 11:22 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Most glucometers that I've seen are CR2032 or 2025. The trend
seems to be to make the meters smaller and smaller. Also,
they seem to be treated as largely disposable -- vendors wanting
to "hook" you on a new meter to get you "addicted" to THEIR
(highly profitable) test strips.
[One of the non-profits for which I've done volunteer work recycles
medical... "discards" (not actually "waste", just things that are
no longer "wanted" by hospitals, doctors, patients, etc. So, you
see a LOT of glucometers!]
My portable DMM's (venerable Simpson and disposable "1 digit" HD units)
have 9V batteries. The better (5 and 6 digit) DMM's are line powered.
Ours used a tiny -- 1/2 AAAA? -- 12V! battery. Replaced exactly *once*
so the mate (two pack) is still in the refrigerator, somewhere
I had a box of lithium 9V batteries -- in hermetically sealed pouches
(that smelled, internally, of alcohol or somesuch?) -- that I used
to replenish my meters. The HD units I simply discard when the
battery dies (or, when the displayed reading starts to look *too*
incorrect to put much faith/effort into.
The blood meters are about like the printers. Almost give them away so you
have to buy the strips made just for them. Just as many razors are. Give
away the razor and charge a high price for the blades.
Sort of hard to carry around a line powered DMM. Outside of lab work there
is seldom any need for more than the 4 1/2 digits of the Fluke meters that
run on 9 volt batteries.
I don't tend to do much design/debug work outside of my office so can
rely on almost everything being line powered. E.g., I pulled an LCD TV
into the living room last night to troubleshoot power supply (or
main board) issues. Need 120V in order to test the TV so I've got
that same 120V to power my DMM, DSO, etc.
I keep a HF DMM in the garage for the times when I suspect the battery in
one of the vehicles may be low or faltering. But, then, I'm really only
looking at how it *sags* when cranking and don't really care much about the
*actual* voltage that it is reporting. Probe battery terminals vs. battery
cables to see if a high resistance connection, etc.
Or, operating as a glorified continuity tester...
I worked in a large plant and mainly used meters in the field. If they had
been line powered, I would have needed 50 to 100 feet of power cord.
I just got a HF DMM (free with purchase) a few weeks ago when the local
store opened. Checked it to about 30 volts of DC and 130 volts of AC
compaired with my Fluke meter. Most of the time the HF was within one
number of the last digit. Ohms were slightly off, but probably within spec.
As I did not need to, I did not try it, but there is one adjustment inside
the meter to calibrate it.
It surprises me how accurate the inexpensive stuff is from China. I bought
4 3 digit DC volt meters (just a circuit board with displays and wire leads)
for around $ 5 shipping included. Hooked all of them and a Fluke to a 0 -24
volt supply. All of them but one read the same thing. That was to a tenth
of a volt. The other was sometimes off by one on the last digit. It had an
adjustment, but did not try it as the meter was close enough for me.
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