I would not consider glue the proper fastening method for metal
track. Depending on the installation, it would not meet code
either. Panel adhesive would probably work, but why would you not
fasten it in a more conventional manner? The fastening method is
subject to what the materials are that you are fastening to. The
concrete floor would use either PAT (gun loads) or an alternate
concrete anchor like Tapcon, Nail-In, wire & nail, etc.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
I live in a condo.
I plan to do the work myself
The condo rules say that I must get permission if I invade the ceiling
or floors or the walls of the ajoining units.
This would mean:
* hiring it done
* getting a building permit
* hiring a electrical contractor
* maybe even a architect plan
I do not need to invade the walls of the adjoining units and will
secure the abuting walls with screws.
Hopfully I can get by telling them that I am not invading the walls,
ceiling and floor as well as I am doing the work myself
extra bedroom. Just made a 'jam fit' wall, shimmed as tight as I could
against the floor and ceiling. Used non-marking rubber over the top
plate, and just went over the existing carpet. Managed to find a pretty
good match for the 1960s style paneling, so it vanished pretty well.
Came out clean- once the carpet divot was brushed out, you could not
tell it had been there. It was only 8' high by about 10' long, though.
Not sure you could pull off the same thing with metal studs and plates,
since you can't kick the slightly-too long end studs into place. Maybe
if you bury some extra-long skinny screw jacks in the wall every 8 feet
No, it won't meet code, but if that really isn't a concern where you
live, it may work. (as long as nobody stumbles too hard into the middle
of the wall.) A couple short cross walls framing some shelves or
something would stiffen it up a bunch.
Glue will probably count as invading, just the same as screwing or
If the wall is non load-bearing, take aemeijers's suggestion and build
the wall as a wedge-fit. Cut the studs just 1/16" too long and it'll
stand there forever, secure as any glue-job.
Google: epoxy construction adhesives and there will be several
interesting sources for you to contact. Most any 2-part slow cure
systems will work just fine on concrete. Polyurethane construction
adhesive/sealants are a good second choice, but the epoxy-concrete
bond is stronger. Care must be taken to ensure the metal is clean and
grease free, probably the most fussy part of the project.
I glue the wall stud plates to concrete when remodelling basements
that have water tubing imbedded in the concrete slab (for heat). To
not risk imbedding a fastener in the heat tubing. A polyurethane
adhesive holds as tight as any other fastener, probably better, just
put some blocks or sandbags on the work while it is curing. I once
had to remove a wall plate I glued in the wrong place... by the time I
got it peeled from the floor it took a divot of concrete with it (glue
was stronger). Glue would not be an invasion, but in my opinion some
2.5 inch drywall screws to hold your wall plates down/up would not be
an intrusion either as they are not going to pop into your neighbors
No thats the wrong glue. Look for PL polyurethane construction
adhesive. The PL brand is better than Liquid Nails, (which is an
excellent glue too). But for what you are describing I'd use PL.
Personally I would still shoot some screws if you can, the intrusion
of a few screws is no worse than hanging a picture IMO and should not
violate the HOA.
You are not going to bond metal to concrete period. Metal is non-
porous. Glue requires pores. It may "stick" but it won't have any
strength. A sharp blow will crack it free. That goes for construction
adhesives, epoxies, etc..
Yes, they epoxy anchor bolts into foundations, but the key word is IN.
They drill a hole in the concrete, fill with epoxy, and insert the
THREADED rod into the hole. The epoxy grabs into the threads like a
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