Hi all, I have regular basement windows about 6 inches off the outside ground level. I want to build a shute or slide of some kind so I can wheel-barrow a load of wood up to the window and then slide the wood down, while someone in the basement grabs and stacks them. I may be burning 6-8 cords of wood a winter, for some scale.
Anyone got tips or recommendations?
Thanks!
Dean
snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:
The furnace is going in the basement. I have a fireplace upstairs but I'm not talking about that one now.
The wood idea sounds like a possibility. I could probable put it on wheels and move it to the window as necessary. Hmmm....
Thanks!
Dean
how bout a 16" wide board with sides put on it to make like an old coal shute.lucas
Dean,
Doesn't your basement have an exterior door? It's easy to put a sheet of plywood on the stairs to protect them. Basement windows will probably be a "bottleneck" unless they are really big. Why do you want to store your wood in the basement if the furnace is upstairs? Wood is a real source of bugs so if you do store the wood indoors keep an eye out for damage.
Dave M.
You hopefully have a cheap supply of wood that can save you money. I hope that's the reason for burning wood. Otherwise you are insane with going through the bother of tending a stove and putting up with the introduction of bugs into your house.
If you still want to burn don't use the door. Opening the door for periodic loads of wood lets much of the heat cost savings fly out the door. Burning cold wood is not efficient either. Your best bet is to introduce and store a large load of wood in the house on a warm day through a small opening. That way you won't lose much heat during the process.
You are such an obvious troll! You wouldn't need so much wood to burn if you didn't have such a big house to stack the wood in. Do you have a clue how much room 8 cords takes up.
Who cares? Sometimes a bit of fresh air is welcome, even on a cold day.
The BTU's lost during that 30 seconds is more than the stove puts out in the same 30 seconds.
It's obvious that any time a door is opened multiple times on a cold day a lot of heat is wasted.
The most effective way to bring wood into a house is to load up on it during a warmer day.
At the price of utilites, wood can save a bundle of money. there are ways to eliminate the bugs too, but you have to do that ahead of time.
You mean opening hte door for 30 seconds is going to lose more heat than can be brought in in that time? I use a wheelbarrowa nd can bring in a load on the coldest of days and not lose all that much heat compard to what I'm bringing in, maybe 48+ hours of heating.
This I agree with. Few days to a week is best as it will dry more in the house too.
So what? If you bring in enough wood to fire the stove for many hours, you are ahead of the game. If you want to be that picky, bring in the wood on the same trip as when you go out for the mail. I don' tknow about you, but we go in and out of the house many times in a day, even in winter. Sometimes you just have to open the door.
Sure, but that is not always practical when you have 30 straight days of below freezing.
You lose considerably less heat bringing wood into the house on a calm
31 degree day than you would on a windy 5 degree day. Both days are below freezing.George I'm not saying I will stack 8 cords in my basement at the same time! I'm saying I might have to load a cord 8 times into the basement, every few weeks. I am not a troll! And anyway, what's your contribution to this thread?
Thanks everyone else. I'm really not worried about opening doors, the air that escapes does not hold much heat, its a gas after all. Anyway, I'm going in through the basement window!
Thanks for all the tips,
Dean
Are these full, honest cords of wood? 2-tons each, air-dried? 128 cu. ft. each?
That's one huge amount of wood to be packing into a house, by any of the means suggested.
You might be well-served by sealing and insulating the house, and installing efficient (read also, clean) wood-burner(s). Then the wood could also sit longer, and dry further.
Lower temps, and zoning help a lot, too.
HTH, J
I'm putting in a charmaster furnace, its supposed to be very efficient. And my house is very well insulated, its just got electric heat which costs a fortune.
i have electric too. be sure your insurance company is OK with you using wood to heat. if you're adding a chimney, you might be in trouble. ....thehick
Your argument is what is surreal. You have a choice of when to bring the wood in, and it does make a difference.
32,000 BTU's per hour are available with two armloads each consisting of a 18" square of typical split hardwood.At what cost? A cold piece of anything absorbs heat in order to get to room temperature. Do this wood warming on a warm day if possible. A cold load of wood stuns the stove and creates less heat and more tending.
Stored wood can be a problem.
I've burned wood enough to realize that unless you have a cheap supply it isn't worth the effort.
I burn around 6 cord a year. One armful at a time or a barrow full it all comes into the house eventually. Curious here. Where did you get
2 tons per cord? AFAIK the specifications of a cord do not mention weight. While all wood has approx the same BTU per pound, the weight per cord will vary all over the place.Harry K
Um.. He said he may have to load a cord. "a cord" is singular. "Every few weeks" is plural. "Eight times" is plural. He stated his intention accurately.
It is up to you to improve your reading comprehension.
Just for George (it is complicated, I'm sure we all agree): I meant to say I will bring 1 (ONE) cord of wood into my basement, every few (FEW) weeks (just one at a time, mind you), for approximately 8 times (which I assume covers the cold period here is NJ). That makes 8 (EIGHT) cords per winter. I have 20 cords right now outside my driveway, so I know how much work it is to stack and split. The good thing about a furnace is that it takes unsplit wood up to around 10-12" diameter.
Claro?
Dean
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