How to drill a 1" hole in a steel-clad entry door

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I'm installing a peephole viewer that requires a 1" hole in a 1.75" door. It's item U9896 here:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=door+brass+viewer&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId051&catalogId053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1
From peeking into a pilot hole, the cladding is only 1/16" and the core seems to be MDF. Would something like this work?
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/metal-drilling/step-drill-bits
Judging from the photo, I need a 1/2" chuck. My drill has a 3/8" chuck, which means I would have to rent a larger drill. But my local rental place charges $48 to BUY the bit, and doesn't even have a 1/2" drill for rent.
Any other suggestions, especially a bit for a 3/8" chuck?
R1
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I'd use a regular $10 hole saw that you can find at HD, Lowes, etc. That will fit your 3/8 drill. You want the ones with the medium size teeth that are made to cut through many kinds of material, including metal and wood. I'd go for the one with the smallest teeth I could find.
Like this:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8633&AMAZON
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I was about to type that. Look at the door, inside and out. Carefully choose your location. Be considerate to the shortest person in the family. Tall man can bend down a bit.
Mark the location with a pencil. Prick punch to get a starter indent. Drill totally through the door with a 1/4 bit. Use the hole saw from one side, and then from the other side.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
I'd use a regular $10 hole saw that you can find at HD, Lowes, etc. That will fit your 3/8 drill. You want the ones with the medium size teeth that are made to cut through many kinds of material, including metal and wood. I'd go for the one with the smallest teeth I could find.
Like this:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part †33&AMAZON
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Thanks Trader and Oren for leads to products I was unaware of.
Judging by their websites, HD or Lowes don't have a product that meets my needs.
Ace offers this, with specs saying it is okay for metal, but mandrel sold separately: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId 33352&kw=hole+saw&origkw=hole+saw&searchIda046645583
Truvalue comes to the rescue: good for metal and with built-in 3/8" mandrel. The specs say it's for a drill, but without a pilot bit maybe they mean it's intended for a drill press and thus would be hard to use with a hand-held drill against an installed door.
http://www.truevalue.com/product/1-Piece-1-Inch-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw/33468.uts?keyword=hole%20saw#activeTab0
R1
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I think if you go to HD or Lowes they will have them. I know I've seen them there before.
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wrote:

Here it is:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=bi+metal+hole+saw&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1
If that link doesn't work, just search on their website for bi metal hole saw.
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IIRC they have a cheaper "one use" version which has the pilot bit already built in. The pilot bit is essential to keep the hole saw centered.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
I think if you go to HD or Lowes they will have them. I know I've seen them there before.
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Isn't that why they have the hole for the 1/4" drill bit? That type is an excellent choice. I don't have that brand. Mine are the red ones.
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I feel like I'm all alone in the room, talking to myself.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .

Isn't that why they have the hole for the 1/4" drill bit? That type is an excellent choice. I don't have that brand. Mine are the red ones.
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On Sat, 21 Apr 2012 19:04:36 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

And your point is???
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I told the OP how to make a nice hole. And this is my thanks?
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
wrote:>I feel like I'm all alone in the room, talking to myself.

And your point is???
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On Sat, 21 Apr 2012 21:25:13 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

Aw come on, you're almost sounding like our imposter-in-chief trying to take credit for the increase in oil production in the U.S. since he took office. I did say "almost." :-)
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I actually had a useful contribution, though.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
wrote:>I told the OP how to make a nice hole. And this is my thanks?

Aw come on, you're almost sounding like our imposter-in-chief trying to take credit for the increase in oil production in the U.S. since he took office. I did say "almost." :-)
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<...snipped...>
A good quality holesaw such as Morse, Starrett, or Milwaukee will go through several steel clad doors before needing sharpening. Use a drill that can be slowed down while the bit is in the steel portion, and use some oil or some kind of lube while it's cutting the steel too.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
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Rebel1 wrote:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=door+brass+viewer&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId051&catalogId053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/metal-drilling/step-drill-bits
All of the step drills I have run across fit a 3/8" chuck just fine. They usually have three flats on them as well so you don't have to over tighten the chuck to keep them from slipping. The problem you will likely have is with the MDF core once you drill to 1" from both sides which will leave you with something of an hourglass shape hole in the MDF. You might be able to clear that out with a 1" spade bit if you're careful, but spade bits don't really like non-piloted use.
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First of all, why the Hell is it a one inch hole? It's a peephole, not a supermax camera. I'd look for a smaller OD optic.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/metal-drilling/step-drill-bits > place charges $48 to BUY the bit, and doesn't even have a 1/2" drill for

You're gonna need a step drill, no doubt about it. OTOH, 1/16" thk is pretty hefty if it's steel sheet clad. If alum, no problem. Yer also gonna need a 1/2" drill motor. A 3/8" chuck drill motor is jes not gonna have the power.
Fer gawds sake, stay away from a hole saw unless you have a drill press or magnetic drill press. Even with a pilot drill, the chances of breaking or at least spraining yer wrist is HUGE. I'm a machinist and you couldn't get me to use a hole saw with a hand drill motor, even at gunpoint.
Geez, donchya got some friends or neighbors? Someone is bound to have a 1/2" drill motor. I've got 3! I'm remote as Hell, yet still have 3 rental places within 20 mi. Beg, borrow, or steal the 1/2" motor and mail order a bit.
If you can find a 7/8" OD peephole, you can use a 3/8" chuck drill motor and pay a reasonable price. Unibit is a good product:
http://tinyurl.com/7m23xbd
nb
--
vi --the heart of evil!

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It is done every day by hundreds of door installers installing deadbolts every day of the week. You DO want a "d handle" type drill with a pipe handle on it if you want an extra level of safety - which USUALLY means a 1/2" drill - but I've seen commercial duty 3/8 drills with that feature. With a bit of care a 3/8 drill without the extra handle can safely do the job. As Stormy said - drill a pilot hole all the way through first - a size smaller than the pilot drill of the hole saw is a good idea

Home Despot rents 'em.

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Hundreds of door installers are either drilling wood or have a mag-base drill. While I'm sure there are some real gorillas out there, I'm not one of them. When I was young, strong, and stupid, I used a custom carbide hole saw with my 400 RPM Milwaukee to drill thru concrete. Was doing great till the saw struck an embedded steel I-beam. Ripped that 1/2" motor right out my hand, giving my wrist a terrible wrench, then continued turninig (lock was on) till it ripped it's own power cord out by the roots. Never again. ;)
I don't know, perhaps a 1" hole saw wouldn't be too bad. That's not much side torque if the saw should get tilted and/or the teeth grab. I've done it more than a few times with larger dia holes. Never again without some sorta drilling fixture/guide to ensure perpendicularity. I'm talking strictly metal, now. Wood is a non-issue.
nb
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vi --the heart of evil!

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I'll use a piloted hole saw - but I'm not stupid enough to use a "hole cutter" - even in a drill press.
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On Apr 19, 8:39 pm, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I agree with you. It's just thin metal over a wood core. I would not be afraid of using a decent 3/8 drill and a bi-metal hole saw. I've done 4 1/2" holes through 4 1/2 thick wood using them.
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