how to disassemble needle nose pliers

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How does one disassemble needle nose pliers? Have a pair that is the worse case of frozen I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solven ts for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable w rench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.
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On Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:06:13 AM UTC-5, Frank Thompson wrote:

You don't! You're done! (I would add MOST people refer to "long-nose pliers" as NNP...because it's cute~not because it's accurate)
http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/BenDarrenBach/imagesqtbnANd9GcQtcnVBu1I5Vul5iZbB4_zpsa96764b9.jpg
http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/BenDarrenBach/imagesqtbnANd9GcTIGCLK0eq2q5YiOFvS1_zpsb6185fe9.jpg
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On 4/10/2014 6:06 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:

I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solvents for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable wrench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.

and cannot be dissembled. That said, some times I have been able to spray the center pivot with WD-40 or Castle Thrust, and exercise the joint, spraying every couple opening and closing. Be generous with the spray, and some times the rust will lift out. I'd seriously consider replace them, rather than go through all that work.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
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Frank Thompson wrote:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-quart-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96433.html I have never used it but a friend did and claims it works. Just a thought if you have a Harbor Freight near by.
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On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 03:06:13 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson

I have had good results with PB Blaster penetrant. May take several applications but usually 2 or 3 times works for me. Getting old and forgetting to put things up causes rusted joints to appear. Be sure to apply to jaw, handle and sides.
--
Mr.E

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'Frank Thompson[_2_ Wrote:

Frank: I expect that moisture has gotten into the joint in the pliers and caused the two sides to rust.
I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy). Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on the drive axle.
I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
Any masonary contractor will have muriatic acid if you don't feel the need to buy a gallon or quart for yourself. If you give then a $5 bill for their effort, I'm sure they'd give you enough to do the job. But, bring your own plastic container.
And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily available to consumers, so be careful with it.
--
nestork

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On 4/10/2014 11:38 AM, nestork wrote:

I had, years ago, an old pair of country boy's fence pliers. I may try this, if I still have them.
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On 4/10/2014 12:32 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Just for grins and giggles, I got the old fence pliers, laying in he muddy gravel in front of my trailer where I left them about three or four years ago. I found my old jug of muriatic, and poured some on. Then, I took a sandwich bag and pour some in, and let that soak. Took them out, and beat on em with a hammer, and used a cold chisel right behind the pivot to put some separating force. The joint loosened up a bit. Hit it with hammer some more. Pour some more acid on,and work it with muscle power. After a while the joint loosened up, as free as the day it was born. I'm thrilled and giggling, and thankful to the kind people on this list.
I'm going to leave the pliers some where dry, over night. and then lubricate with a couple drops of motor oil.
Thank you Nestork, and anyone else who suggested.
--
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On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 16:50:33 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

BTW, as with any acid, I neutralized with just water and detergent - but lots and lots of it.
BEFORE PIC:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7140/13790410675_42ecc4b6f9.jpg
DURING PIC:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/13790409835_2b8f710c04.jpg
AFTER PIC:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/13790435873_0aa16341fa.jpg
Of course, HCL works MUCH FASTER!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7256/13790746104_b47303b358.jpg
But, THIS happens if you don't neutralize concrete spills:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/13790436073_f151af73da.jpg
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On 4/11/2014 11:29 PM, Danny D. wrote:

class. But, I don't remember detergents neutralizing acid. Remove maybe, but not neutralize. To neutralize,you need an alkalai, or a carbonate.
I think mean acid spill on concrete, not "concrete spill". I know, splitting hairs.
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On 4/10/2014 10:38 AM, nestork wrote: ...

You've rediscovered the wheel... :)
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid#Pickling_of_steel>
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A friend of mine had such a situation, maybe 20 years ago. I remember him offering me the job of changing the impellor on his snow thrower, and I didn't feel qualified. Wish I'd known, then, what I do today.
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cnVBu1I5Vul5iZbB4_zpsa96764b9.jpg

GCLK0eq2q5YiOFvS1_zpsb6185fe9.jpg
sorry to bust your fantasy world, but i ain't never heard them called anything but needle-nose for 50 years. no body i know calls them long nose pliers. you're the first one.
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On Thursday, April 10, 2014 12:19:51 PM UTC-5, gopher stew wrote:

I have and I'm 68...it may be regional though. Still, both are long-nose and one is needle-nose!
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On Thursday, April 10, 2014 6:06:13 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:

Drill it out. Re-bolt. Ugly? yes.
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A friend had a wheel rusted to a front axle. I think he's sold the car by now, which is a shame because I'd love to try your remedy here.
Click and Clack recommended loosening the lug nuts and driving around. Didn't get to do that either. It wouldn't work on a snow blower, because you can't go fast enough.
Copy to him, for the next time.

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wrote:

Well, I did re-bolt a very large pair of water pump pliers. I found the two halves already separated in the trash barrel at a gas station. It's worked fine on an occasional basis for 5 years now.
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On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 12:32:02 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Easy to get HCL in gallon quantities at any box store that also sells pool equipment (e.g., Home Depot, Lowes, etc.).
I've put LOTS of stuff in HCL, so, just be careful that you pull it out earlier rather than later. What's a good way to get rid of rain surface rust on tools left outside https://groups.google.com/forum /#!topic/alt.home.repair/MnRFkwF0jQU[1-25-false]
etc. (many pictures in that thread)
Do they make a rubbery paint for chipped refrigerator wire racks? https://groups.google.com/forum /#!searchin/alt.home.repair/phosphoric$20acid$20danny/alt.home.repair/rYTbqlRYuM4/lAJT0XYPBdsJ
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/9568891966_2d99e79f78_o.gif
https://groups.google.com/forum /#!original/alt.home.repair/rYTbqlRYuM4/lAJT0XYPBdsJ
As stated, Phosphoric acid (e.g., Naval Jelly) is also sold in all the box stores, at about the same price for 16 ounces as you pay for a gallon of HCL.
Both will remove rust. I'd try the phosphoric acid first, and then, the brute force hydrochloric acid last.
When done, oil her up. Worked for me.
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Danny,
Naval jelly isn't likely to get anywhere near the rust in the joint. Fortunately, phosphoric acid in liquid form comes in red cans marked Coca Cola. Coke is a famously cheap rust remover.
Dave M.
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'David L. Martel[_2_ Wrote: > ;3221007']Danny,

>

> Coca

No, I'd never use phosphoric acid to remove rust. Phosphoric acid reacts with rust to form ferric phosphate, a black weak substance.
If you want to REMOVE the rust, then I'd just go with hydrochloric acid. I don't know if hydrochloric acid will dissolve ferric phosphate, so it might be a bit of a gamble using the phosphoric acid first. You may then end up having to find something that'll dissolve the ferric phosphate. By just going with the hydrochloric acid first, then you know it'll dissolve any rust it encounters.
--
nestork


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