What is the best way - without soldering - to connect a 3/4" rigid copper pipe to 3/4" PVC 40?
If there is no good way, what do I need to buy to make a solder joint?
Thank you
Walter--
as others have said, sharkbite ought to make a fitting that will turn a plain copper pipe into a male 3/4" NPT then use a PVC FPT to glue socket fitting, continue from there.
Personally I'd be tempted to just solder the one fitting onto the copper rather than spending the $$$ for sharkbite, but then again I have all the tools and supplies. If you need to buy all that stuff and this is a one-off job the sharkbite starts to look like the most economical solution.
nate
Disregard my last post. You said PVC to copper (not CPVC). Here are some transition fitings:
"don &/or Lucille" wrote in news:4eaee04e$0$16533$ snipped-for-privacy@news.aliant.net:
the only proper way is to solder a threaded fitting on the copper pipe,then screw on the proper PVC adapter,and glue up your PVC pipe network to that adapter.
you need a propane or MAPP torch,flux-core plumbing solder(no lead!!),emery paper to clean the solder joint areas,and maybe a heat shield if there's wood or a wall close by.
The folks at Home Depot or Lowes ought to be able to show you how to do this properly. they might even teach a class on it.
6533$ snipped-for-privacy@news.aliant.net:
Why is that the only "proper" way?
Are you not a fan of SharkBites?
It might also matter *where* the fitting will be located.
I too will sweat copper or glue PVC in the majority of cases, but there have been times, such as putting a T in copper to tap in for a PEX run way up in a joist bay, that the expense of SharkBites don't seem so bad compared to trying to sweat copper in a cramped location while contorted on top of step ladder in a dank, dusty basement.
Half a roll of duct tape should do the job for a couple weeks or so... Just make sure the pipes are dry when you tape them together. Be sure to secure the pipes to the floor joists or wall studs with bungie cords.
Duct tape and bungie cords are all you will ever need to repair everything.
Go to H.D. or a Plumbing Supply and have them give you a quick demo on "Shark Bite" . Will solve your problem !
One way is good, the other problematic.... Metal male thread & PVC female thread invites a splitting failure.
The reverse is more robust,
oops!
already posted....
plus don't used those wimpy slip to male thread PVC fittings Use a 6" long SCH 80 3/4" threaded PVC nipple, cut it in half and attach it to the PVC pipe with a coupling.
MUCH stronger
As others have said....SharkBites.
btw (OP) that would be copper tube not pipe.
cheers Bob
compression FEMALE adaptor on the copper side. PVC male adaptor on the plastic side. Screw together.
Duct tape didn't work when my clothes dryer belt snapped the other day and nowhere in town had a replacement. I never thought of trying a bungie cord, though ;-)
The first time I saw Shark Bite fittings, it was like "This is a dream, right?" High priced crap! "Oh, not to worry, full money back guarantee."
Tried it on the little test pieces they had there, and I was suspicious. THIS WAS TOO EASY!
I had to fix 5 burst pipes under a mountain cabin, four of them in very tight spaces. Crawl spaces. Get under there and work at arm length spaces.
When I was introduced to them by the guy at Big Orange, I was highly skeptical. I got some, and used them, and fixed all my problems in 1/10 of the time it would have taken. And no fire sweating fittings under a wood cabin with leaves a foot thick all over, and in positions that would have been difficult for a contortionist.
Plain and simple, if you haven't tried them, look at them.
Coming from a person who is highly skeptical about everything in life, they work and are worth the money, and will make the job sooooooooooo much simpler. Lots of places where sweating is dangerous, can't get in there, stud's too tight, can't do this or that ..................... SHARK BITE! Copper to pex to pvc to copper to pex, it all just fits together if the OD is the same. It's so simple, it makes stupid people feel guilty. (Or at least in my case.)
The repairs are going on three seasons old now, a concern I had of them, whether or not they'd last. But even if they just last five years, I'd happily replace with them again just for the convenience and safety aspect of the job.
YMMV, and all that stuff ..................
Steve
as others have said, sharkbite ought to make a fitting that will turn a plain copper pipe into a male 3/4" NPT then use a PVC FPT to glue socket fitting, continue from there.
Personally I'd be tempted to just solder the one fitting onto the copper rather than spending the $$$ for sharkbite, but then again I have all the tools and supplies. If you need to buy all that stuff and this is a one-off job the sharkbite starts to look like the most economical solution.
nate
If you don't have the soldering rig, a $7 Sharkbite is less than a burner, a tank of fuel, solder, flux, and all the other stuff. A lot less.
Steve
"Jim Yanik" wrote
Huh? "Proper way"? There may be a way that is "proper", and then there is a way that is simple, safe, effective, long lasting, cost efficient, and labor saving. Sometimes the lesser is just as good as the "proper" way.
Give me safe, easy and long lasting.
There's a hundred ways to cook a poodle.
But it all tastes like chicken in the end, don't it?
Steve
sharkbites don't fit pvc. they fit CPVC.
.
I was thinking the Sharkbite would be for the copper, to avoid the soldering.
I didn't think about Steve B's point but it makes sense. I will have to file that one away, although I know that I've seen FPT PVC fittings before.
"Steve Barker" wrote
Whatever. They sure are handy, though. As for the op, I'd get a glue on NPT PVC, and a compression fit with a mating copper piece.
Steve
Yep. That's one of my favorites. Cut and cap almost as quickly as talking about it. They're also really useful for shunting water temporarily while a bathroom or whatever is worked on.
R
I recall the time before pre-SharkBites that I was trying to sweat a cap onto a line.
Just as the solder started to flow the cap shot off the end of the pipe with a POP and flew across the basement, spewing the liquid solder in its path.
I'm glad no one else was nearby...could have caused injuries.
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