How to connect copper to PVC?

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What is the best way - without soldering - to connect a 3/4" rigid copper pipe to 3/4" PVC 40?
If there is no good way, what do I need to buy to make a solder joint?
Thank you
Walter-- www.rationality.net
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as others have said, sharkbite ought to make a fitting that will turn a plain copper pipe into a male 3/4" NPT then use a PVC FPT to glue socket fitting, continue from there.
Personally I'd be tempted to just solder the one fitting onto the copper rather than spending the $$$ for sharkbite, but then again I have all the tools and supplies. If you need to buy all that stuff and this is a one-off job the sharkbite starts to look like the most economical solution.
nate
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It might also matter *where* the fitting will be located.
I too will sweat copper or glue PVC in the majority of cases, but there have been times, such as putting a T in copper to tap in for a PEX run way up in a joist bay, that the expense of SharkBites don't seem so bad compared to trying to sweat copper in a cramped location while contorted on top of step ladder in a dank, dusty basement.
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wrote:

as others have said, sharkbite ought to make a fitting that will turn a plain copper pipe into a male 3/4" NPT then use a PVC FPT to glue socket fitting, continue from there.
Personally I'd be tempted to just solder the one fitting onto the copper rather than spending the $$$ for sharkbite, but then again I have all the tools and supplies. If you need to buy all that stuff and this is a one-off job the sharkbite starts to look like the most economical solution.
nate
If you don't have the soldering rig, a $7 Sharkbite is less than a burner, a tank of fuel, solder, flux, and all the other stuff. A lot less.
Steve
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On 11/1/2011 2:32 PM, Steve B wrote:

sharkbites don't fit pvc. they fit CPVC.
--
Steve Barker
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I was thinking the Sharkbite would be for the copper, to avoid the soldering.
I didn't think about Steve B's point but it makes sense. I will have to file that one away, although I know that I've seen FPT PVC fittings before.
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Whatever. They sure are handy, though. As for the op, I'd get a glue on NPT PVC, and a compression fit with a mating copper piece.
Steve
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On 11/2/2011 2:52 PM, Oren wrote:

CPVC is sized by OD (outside diameter)
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Best way would be to glue a female adapter on the pvc then you could screw in a copper adder and carry on or vice versa solder a female adapter on the copper then screw in a pvc adaper and carry on with the pvc pipe

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the only proper way is to solder a threaded fitting on the copper pipe,then screw on the proper PVC adapter,and glue up your PVC pipe network to that adapter.
you need a propane or MAPP torch,flux-core plumbing solder(no lead!!),emery paper to clean the solder joint areas,and maybe a heat shield if there's wood or a wall close by.
The folks at Home Depot or Lowes ought to be able to show you how to do this properly. they might even teach a class on it.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
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Why is that the only "proper" way?
Are you not a fan of SharkBites?
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Huh? "Proper way"? There may be a way that is "proper", and then there is a way that is simple, safe, effective, long lasting, cost efficient, and labor saving. Sometimes the lesser is just as good as the "proper" way.
Give me safe, easy and long lasting.
There's a hundred ways to cook a poodle.
But it all tastes like chicken in the end, don't it?
Steve
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wrote:

One way is good, the other problematic.... Metal male thread & PVC female thread invites a splitting failure.
The reverse is more robust,
oops!
already posted....
plus don't used those wimpy slip to male thread PVC fittings Use a 6" long SCH 80 3/4" threaded PVC nipple, cut it in half and attach it to the PVC pipe with a coupling.
MUCH stronger
As others have said....SharkBites.
btw (OP) that would be copper tube not pipe.
cheers Bob
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transition fitings:
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Copper-Pipe-Adapters
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wrote:

Half a roll of duct tape should do the job for a couple weeks or so... Just make sure the pipes are dry when you tape them together. Be sure to secure the pipes to the floor joists or wall studs with bungie cords.
Duct tape and bungie cords are all you will ever need to repair everything.
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On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 14:33:50 -0600, jw wrote:

Duct tape didn't work when my clothes dryer belt snapped the other day and nowhere in town had a replacement. I never thought of trying a bungie cord, though ;-)
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On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 21:29:01 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson

A bungie should work fine for your belt, just remove the metal hooks on the end and duct tape the ends together. Of course you need the proper length bungie. You can measure that by taking a tail hair off one of you your cattle or horses. or using a piece of balin twine as a measurin device. If you aint got none of them things, but are lucky enough to still have a dollar bill in your wallet in this poor economy, all dollar bills are 6 inches long. Then measure to the closest letter or number on the bill if it's an uneven divider of six. Then you get a bungie thats a little shorter.
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On Wed, 02 Nov 2011 14:14:14 -0600, jw wrote:

Ha ha! Funny thing was, a replacement belt was six bucks (inc. shipping), and I found five in change kicking around inside the machine, so it's sort of like having a warranty. ;)
Humor aside, I think an emergency duct-tape belt might actually be possible, but only if made entirely from the stuff; a taped-together belt tends to bend around the join when it passes by the [tiny] motor pulley, which then loses traction and chews away at the tape. A belt made entirely from tape wouldn't have any weak spots (but the stretch might simply be too great for the tensioner to handle anyway).
Re. pantyhose, I've only ever heard that as an emergency car fan belt replacement; I do remember someone trying it (back when I was maybe 6 years old) but don't recall if it actually worked. I expect it stretches too much to be really effective, but I suppose having the fan turning a bit would be better than nothing and could get you home (possibly with several cool-down stops).
cheers
Jules
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Go to H.D. or a Plumbing Supply and have them give you a quick demo on "Shark Bite" . Will solve your problem !
Bill

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On 10/31/2011 9:26 AM, walther wrote:

compression FEMALE adaptor on the copper side. PVC male adaptor on the plastic side. Screw together.
--
Steve Barker
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