How to connect #12 stranded to #10 solid

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If you use plumbing flux, _clean_ the result very thoroughly. Acid flux eats copper. Much more critical with electronics (small wires etc) and usually not a factor with plumbing (big copper ;-), it still can matter with house wiring.
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Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
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Use pliers to twist and tighten the stranded wire onto the solid and then twist your wire connectors onto the splice.

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why are are we connecting #10 & #12 conductors?
which wire is upstream? & what is capacity of the circuit breaker?
cheers Bob
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I am hardwiring a transfer switch. The cable from the generator is solid 10, and the internal wiring on the switch is standed 12.
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This would concern me, maybe I have the wrong sized switch.
Might want to do further research into the setup.
later,
tom @ www.ChopURL.com
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The switch is rated to 21a (240v), so #12 internal is fine, but the line going to it (about 80') had to be #10/3.
Actually I only plan on using it for 14a (120v) so #12, or even #14, would have been fine; but it seemed prudent to set it up for a larger generator since the work is about the same.
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toller wrote:

These will clamp those wires together tighter than a bull's backside in fly season:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId11740735&ccitem But you'll have to wrap the hell out of them with tape to make sure the electrons can't get loose. If it was me, I'd solder 'em.
Jeff
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Jeffry Wisnia

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toller wrote:

Maybe you are using the wrong size of wire nut.
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regular old red scotchlock/ideal wirenut/wingnut twist the stranded line it up with the solid, clip the ends off evenly, then poke em into and then twist the wirenut.

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I would use wire nuts that have a brass insert with a set screw that you tighten onto the wires, after trimming the excess hanging out the insert you screw on a plastic cap. When finished it looks just like a twist-on wire nut. A "Marr #2 insulated wire connector" is listed as good for two solid or stranded #10 wires down to five #14s.

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I was all set to sold the wires, but these look like they ought to be plenty secure; if anyone locally has them. Thanks
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Eric Tonks writes:

Ditto this, I have used these for decades. Best thing for stranded, or mismatched sizes, or large bunches. Ideal brand used to make them.
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I called every electrical supply house in town. They will order me a box of 100, but don't carry it. Some will also order me the Ideal equivalent, but don't stock them either. You wouldn't have 4 you could toss in an envelop would you? I would be most grateful. The alternative seems to be soldering them, and I am not having any better luck with that; my soldering iron is not big enough.
Home Depot carries the split bolts, but insulating them would be a problem.

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Just occured to me that if you are kind enough to oblige me, you won't get far with the fake email address. I am at snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.comspam. Remove the spam of course. Thanks.
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I am still not sure why you are having so much trouble with a wirenut. If you have a red one. wrap the stranded around the solid with a bit of the stranded beyond the solid and twist on the nut I don't know how you would pull them apart without breaking the wire.
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Heat shrink tubing not fit?

later,
tom @ www.URLBee.com
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