How to clean an inaccessible electrical contact?

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I've got a floor lamp which uses this CFL bulb:
http://www.lampsplus.com/products/2D-Energy-Saving-Torchiere-250-Fluorescent-Light-Bulb__04389.html
The bulb often doesn't light up unless I partially remove it from the ballast socket and rock it back & forth. Doesn't matter if it's an old bulb or a brand new one. This makes me wonder if perhaps the contacts in the socket (female on the ballast) are corroded* & not making good contact with the pins sticking out of the bulb. Is there anything I can apply to the pins which would help cut through corrosion in the socket? The holes are way too small to get any kind of soft applicator in there.
* This idea stems from reading about lousy quality lamp parts in another thread.
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I had a bulb problem that might not relate. The other socket problem, the answer was to unplug the lamp. Screw out the bulb. Look in with a flash light. Reach in with a small screw driver, and lift up on the brass tab in the center of the socket. They do sometimes get pushed down.
Let us know if that helps, please.
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Christopher A. Young
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No tab to pull up. There are 4 holes in the ballast and 4 pins on the bulb. The pins are (guessing here) about 1/16" thick, so you can imagine the size of the holes.

http://www.lampsplus.com/products/2D-Energy-Saving-Torchiere-250-Fluorescent-Light-Bulb__04389.html
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On Tue, 2 Feb 2010 21:07:19 -0500, "JoeSpareBedroom"

1/16?
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Remember this is a fluorescent bulb. The kind that have a U-shaped tube that ends in a plastic base and there are 4 pins sticking out. The thing/balllast has four small holes where the bulb plugs in. The metal pins inside the ballast may be expanded and so the bulb pins do not make contact. THE OP could sweat some solder along the existing pins to slightly increase their diameter.
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I've never seen one of them type of bulbs. I knew an old TV repair guy (probably dead, by now) who used to swear by WD-40 as TV tuner cleaner. One radio station repair tech I know swears by Caig Deoxit, though it's $15 a can plus shipping.
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They're great bulbs in terms of the light they provide vs wattage used, but the pin & socket idea may be impractical unless the manufacturer uses decent materials. This particular manufacturer sucks, though. I posted a while back about what happened to the weight in the base of the lamp. This is absurd:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c197/ancientangler/PC180035.jpg?t 65206618
As soon as I find a suitable replacement, this thing's out to the curb.

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Good grief - that just happened to me a couple weeks ago. Thought it was a one-in-a-billion shot. I have the lamp in the garage, with the base waiting to be filled with concrete patch and maybe some lead shot.
Art
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wrote:

I did nothing but slide the lamp sideways to vacuum behind it. It's made by Good Earth Lighting. A piece of junk.
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yours.
Who ever heard of a floor lamp that couldn't be moved?
Art
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wrote:

Probably all comes from the same crap factory in China. The weighting material was mostly likely the ground up bones of political prisoners, mixed with epoxy and lead dust.
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Do you mean "mixed with depleted uranium and toxic gypsum"?
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On Wed, 03 Feb 2010 18:30:43 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@unisys.com (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:

attached to it, that withstood ANY inteded use? Lenovo not withstanding (and Lenovo isn't "Cheap".
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From the sixties. "we shall not be moved"
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On Feb 3, 9:15pm, "Stormin Mormon"
Take it apart and replace the socket! If it is so poorly made that can't be done; junk it. a) It's not safe b) It's not worth the time and effort!
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No, I didn't write that.
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Stop using it for discus toss?
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JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

sockets when you do so, please. Not all curb shoppers and dumpster divers are as aware of possible dangers as the regulars on this group.
-- aem sends...
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

First of all, you don't want to use a flammable spray that leaves flammable residue behind when you may have arcing in the socket. In the TV tuner the contacts were very low amperage and voltage, although it's still a poor choice of product.
It would work to dissolve the old crap on the contacts, then soon enough it dries out and you have new gunk making poor connections. Even one of the most popular products for cleaning tuners, made by, or using the "Channel Master" name was/is pure crap. Contains silicone so when it dried out the things became more sticky and gummier then ever.
A guy I worked for would use the channel master tuner and contact cleaner on circuit boards where the IC's were in sockets and made poor contact. One time he said the stuff works good, but it's like the sockets get "addicted" to it! It sort of does actually. The longer you use it without a pure cleaning spray first, the more gunk builds up to cause more problems down the road.
The same guy had a fit when he saw me washing an "addicted" circuit board in the sink. He threw a fit and said it will never work again. I had started out with degreaser and rinse a few times then went to dish detergent and finally rinsed with lots of water. Used an air hose to blow off 99% of the water and it worked great. Worked much longer than any of his "addicted" circuit boards.
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JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

http://www.lampsplus.com/products/2D-Energy-Saving-Torchiere-250-Fluorescent-Light-Bulb__04389.html
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