How much force to tip over a tree

Page 2 of 3  


I just bought a slingshot with an 8' handle to shoot an 8 oz bag of lead shot over a tree limb with thin twine attached, up to 100' up...

Note the little ax help.

Trees often fall over in winds.

That could help, if nothing happens in a few weeks.
Nick
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Avery wrote:

I have (unfortunately) three large live oaks lying mostly on the ground (two are still alive). They were knocked down by hurricanes two years ago. A few smallish roots came out of the ground but mostly they broke.
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I'd probably go 20' -- and I would keep a close eye on the tree to make sure it doesn't snap.

If you've got a sacrificial axe and not too rocky soil that might work. I've used a demo hammer with a sharpened clay spade with good results--- and a reciprocating saw is handy sometimes, too.

It depends entirely on the root system and soil. Sandy wet soil & you're home free. Dry, rocky soil & you've got a couple days work for one man.

If your anchor point is heavy enough and you release enough of the root system- sure.
I did a similar one a few years ago. Cut it off at 20'- then pulled it with my old Taurus while cutting roots. Found several large roots near the surface-- and a nasty tap root that went deep.
Next one I cut off at 20 feet- debranch - make a platform for hawk/owl nests on top and carve the rest into a totem pole.
Jim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Lets make a mountain out of a molehill......... Hell, it's only an 8 inch trunk. If you dont have a chainsaw and dont want to spend $50 to rent one, get a cheap bow saw from Walmart for $6 and spend a 10 minutes sawing it by hand and enjoy the exercise.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The whole point is to remove a chunk of the root structure while I have the leverage to make it easier, and to drop it slower so it doesn't damage nearby plants. Also, so I don't have to remove parts from a ladder leaned against the tree. Cutting the tree at the base is not an option due to location.
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

With no cut roots, the tree will snap in the trunk. enough room at the base to drill holes, effectively cutting it at ground level? (With ropes and tension to direct the tree's fall.)
lee
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Cut roots are not excluded.
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

But if you are not, do not use a climbing rope. That would be really dangerous. Use a static rope; that would only be pretty dangerous.
And it won't work anyhow. I had a "microburst" 7 years ago. I broke 15 mature white pines in my yard. The only tree it uprooted was a butternut.
I spent a weekend digging out a 3" diameter white pine a few years back. Try to live with it, or at least with the stump.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob F wrote:

Depending on what soil that trees in I don't think you want to do it this way... The only one that MIGHT work would be a really sandy soil mix. Doing it this way ---- When the tree breaks there's going to be some pretty impressive physics applied... :-)
Unless it's diseased, pre-cut, or full of termites that trees gonna break long before you ever uproot it with that method.
The safest way is to cut it with the chain saw and drop it where you want it. You'll have a couple of options to get rid of the stump. You can either. Cut it down as close to the ground as possible and let it rot, hire/rent a stump grinder and make it go that way, or there are several products on the market that you can cover/introduce via drilled holes into the stump that will either let you burn it (check your local ordinances) or rot faster. Or leave about four feet of stump and have a piece of heavy equipment (dozer, skidder) in to pull the stump.
Good luck...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yeah, water around the tree first so it goes over easer. Just make sure it is well saturated about 12 feet in diameter and 10 feet deep.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob F wrote:

It'll either work fine or you'll win a Darwin Award. In either case, it's a win!!!
(p.s., don't forget to video it and put it on YouTube)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob F wrote:

I have done something similar with a few oak trees that were near the house, one of them was 28 inches diameter. I used my skidsteer to dig a trench around the base of the tree breaking and tearing as many of the roots as possible. I doesn't take much digging and the tree can be pushed over with the machine. They are quite top heavy and leverage is your friend.
Usually I use a chainsaw but these trees were near the house and acually leaning towards the house. With this method I was able to push the tree in a safe direction, away from the house, much safer than using a saw.
If you don't have access to a skidsteer you could maybe rent a walk-behind trencher and make a trench around the base of the tree to the maximum depth. This should sever enough of the roots to winch it over.
A similar method could be used without a machine. You could hand dig around the base of the tree until some of the larger roots have been severed. Then try to winch it over. If it won't budge then you dig some more. It's not a safe as using a machine because you would have to winch the tree towards you rather than push it. Use a really long chain for safety sake when winching a tree toward you. Please be careful when working in the woods. Have a helper nearby just in case. Then you will have someone to share a beer with after the job is safely completed.
Lawrence
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
<...snipped...>

Sure, even one pine tree and another pine tree have completely different root systems.
--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - snipped-for-privacy@charm.net
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
www.stihlusa.com
--
Steve Barker


"Bob F" < snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com> wrote in message
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob, hire a profesional and stay far far far away from any tool bigger than a screw driver. Bob F wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

LOL
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob F wrote:

nope.
want simple? drill a hole in one side of the tree, stick a funnel and fill with waste oil, as it soaks in, add more, check every hour.
then light a match.
lot more fun than a chainsaw :)
other poster: some people dont like chainsaws. if it was me and I couldnt burn it, I'd ask someone if they want free firewood, if that fails, i'd use a winch to pull the tree gently in one direction, and start diggin roots, maybe flood with water depending on soil conditions.
I got some 50ft pines i will eventually get rid of, if no one claims firewood out of them, I might have to try this.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If you join your local Freecycle group www.freecycle.org or post the wood on Craigslist for free, believe me, people will come running for it, especially now before winter hits. Your free wood will be even more popular if you can cut down the tree into more manageable lengths, but I'm sure that could be a point of negotiation. Good luck!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Are you sure anyone is going to want burn pine? I don't have a fireplace, but isn't burning pine bad for the flue, creosote?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.