I'm planning to repaint my oak cabinets white. They're stained with an
amber-tint now. I'm planning to use a liquid sander to rough up the top
coat, and then use a enamel primer. My question is how many coats of primer
do I need?
(1) Once you use liquid sandpaper, and the surface is completely dry, you
should use one, or perhaps two coats of stain blocker primer, such as
alcohol or acrylic based Zinzer or Bullseye. Regular primers will not seal
the stain in, if the cabinet clear finish is breached anywhere, and it may
bleed through to the white topcoat over time.
(2) (easier) In order not to breach the clearcoat over our stained oak, we
just cleaned the varnish over the stain with 409 or fantastic, then lightly
sanded for better adherence of the primer. The key thing is to get the
surface super clean, grease free, and slightly rough. That was several years
ago, and the new finish paint looks great. We used Zinzer as a primer and
I would sand down to the bare wood and use one coat of primer.
Personally I would never paint wood like that though. If you don't
like the color than you can always stain it a different color them put
your 3 coats of polyeureathane over it.
Not quite as easy as that. Once wood is sealed it doesn't accept
typical stains. There are gel stains that reside on the surface that
can be used but not typical stains.
On 8 Jun 2004 11:07:31 -0700, scott firstname.lastname@example.org (Childfree Scott)
I don't like oak because it's looks too busy and I don't like the open
grain. That's just my personally preference. Having said that, I don't
really like to paint wood in general, even oak. But, these cabinets are
just too massive and overwhelming. I'll paint over 80% of them, and try to
re-stain the cabinets under the U-shape counter. That's the plan. If the
chemical stripping process turns too difficult which means I have to turn to
mechanical sanding, then I'll just paint over them. I don't like sanding,
esp. I don't know if these old veneer cabinets can take the beating.
Only one coat of primer? How about the undercoat?
Sand, clean, prime, sand, clean, prime, sand, clean, prime, sand,
clean, enamel, sand, clean, enamel, sand, extra clean, finish coat of
enamel. Do this correctly and with oil based enamel and you end up
with a super clean and smooth finish that is very tough and durable.
Done this way you can even polish out minor scratches. If you use
latex enamel then polishing and scrubbing is out of the question.
(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)
This is true. The key here is to make the surface as smooth and clean
as possible to begin with. Each coat you apply fills in smaller and
smaller voids while each sanding dresses down the high spots (I know
you already know this randy) and the cleaning after each sanding
removes as much of the dust as possible. That's why I like to spray
all my oil based enamel paint whenever possible. I feel a sprayer,
used properly, gives a smoother application and the compressed air is
a wonderful tool for removing all the dust.
I've got some shelves in our living room I painted in just this way
(although I probably used one or two more coats of primer, just to be
sure) and the finish is wonderful. Looks almost like glass. It would
look like glass if I took the time to apply a light polish and wax
job, but they are, after all, only book shelves!:~)
(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)
That's a good tip. I can set up a paint booth in my garage and spray the
doors. As for the rest of the cabinet (which I'm not going to remove), can
I just paint (brush or roller) them. I'd rather not do any spraying in the
kitchen. Would it look really odd if the doors are sprayed, but not the
I thought you can sand/polish water-based (latex/acrylic) paint? Do you use
oil-based primer, paint and varnish all the way through?
As for acheiveing a smooth finish, is that possible with oak because of the
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