How is metal siding installed?

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As I posted elsewhere, I am thinking of at least installing it on my inside ceiling. Typically I think each piece overlaps the other whne going side by side by one rib. Is that correct? Length wise is it supposed to overlap and does it look right if it does? I have a 30 feet long ceiling. Obviously 30 foot pieces would be ideal, but transporting it and installing it might be a problem.
Also I am finding out my truses are not "exactly" 48 inches. Some 49, etc.
What would be the best way to go here?
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Siding installed on a ceiling with 48 inches between the joists wil sag badly.
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On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 05:45:57 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

I would also be concerned about years of dust, a few bird nests and a squirrel or two making the sheets heavy enough to pull through the screws and come down on my head.
Metal makes a good roof-- and maybe even fair siding. But i think using it for interior walls and ceilings is a bad idea.
Jim
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I was told by the metal supplier they do it all the time and it does not sag. The truss manufacturer says drywall is too heavy.
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You have trusses that are not capable of supporting drywall and are being used for a roof? Sounds like your overall plan was a bad one. You built something that is not really suitable to what you want the final product to be. Imho, siding installed as a ceiling is going to look like crap. And is about the least insulating thing you could do if you're still trying to heat and cool this garage. How about suspension ceiling. You can hang it just a few inches below your trusses and you'll get a little insulating factor out of the tiles.
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OMFG. Tell me you did not just say that...
The concern is the DRYWALL, not the trusses.
When they drywalled the addition on my parents' house back in 1991, the ceiling sagged between the trusses, and they were on 16" centers!!!
Can you imagine hanging a drywall ceiling from trusses on 48" centers? The ceiling would look like an inverted ski mogul hill after about 24 hours.
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snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote:

And after 72 hours, the drywall would all be on the floor, after the fasteners tore out the edges... <g>
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snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote:

While agreed 4' OC is certainly not enough support for drywall, it's quite possible the lower chord of an engineered truss that is perfectly adequate for the roof load is not designed for the bearing weight of drywall.
...
--
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Seems improbable though.
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jamesgangnc wrote:

Why? If the truss company wasn't given the requirement of drywall ceiling it would be fairly likely ime in these days of design for minimal material/weight and where the truss companies have these standard designs which are optimized and factory-built. The larger the span and spacing, the higher the probability as the vertical load on the lower truss/unit length goes up by the square of the spacings.
--
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Who would have a standard design that didn't allow for wallboard on the ceiling? That doesn't sound like a "standard" that would get called for much. I realize that trusses can take a load from above that is different from a hanging load. But I'm just thinking that any design would be able to handle the minimal load of wallboard. Of course this is on 48" centers so that increases the load a bit. You could probably add some vertical 2x4's to transfer the hanging load to the top at strategic locations and make it work even if they can't handle it.
Still, all in all sounds like a poorly thought out project based on all the subsequent things the op has asked about doing to it.
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[...]

Just consider the source...
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wrote:

Who would have a standard design that didn't allow for wallboard on the ceiling? That doesn't sound like a "standard" that would get called for much. I realize that trusses can take a load from above that is different from a hanging load. But I'm just thinking that any design would be able to handle the minimal load of wallboard. Of course this is on 48" centers so that increases the load a bit. You could probably add some vertical 2x4's to transfer the hanging load to the top at strategic locations and make it work even if they can't handle it.
Still, all in all sounds like a poorly thought out project based on all the subsequent things the op has asked about doing to it.
I agree on the project not being thought out..It sounds as if he had one of those El-Cheapo package garages thrown up with very minimal framing..Stupid move if he planned on finishing it...Imagine what that roof is gonna look like in a few years with 4 foot on center trusses.And the soffits..And the walls....LOL...
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stryped wrote: ...

It's done by going perpendicular across the trusses or adding purlins same way as a wall; your choice. The rigidity in metal is lengthwise across the corrugation or ridge; lengthwise it has no resistance to bending much at all and would be quite limber and difficult to install w/o support.
I'd suggest go to a manufacturer's web site pick a product and get their recommendations on installation for the application envisioned (or start w/ the applications and get recommendation on product(s) _and_ installation actually makes more sense).
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I would be going perpendicular to the trusses. I actually have small furring strips between the russes every two feet or so to hold the insulation in, but not sure if they are spaced right to use as additional nailers without it fallin gon a rib or something.
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stryped wrote:

Again, I'd ask the manufacturer of the product in question -- it wouldn't be adequate for exterior use from wind uplift, water-sealing, etc., etc., but for simply hanging an interior ceiling panel could probably work ok since you can then fasten across the panel at the truss. It would ring like a drum, of course, over that 4-ft span but it would likely be adequate mechanically. This again, of course, would be specific to any particular product selection; undoubtedly one could find some that wouldn't have sufficient support in thinner gauges and less pronounced rib structures.
I repeat myself, but the folks to answer your question are the manufacturers of the _particular_ product for the given application...
--
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The best way to go is to frame out the rest of your ceiling with 2x4's and put wall board on it. Particularly if this is the same garage that you want to heat/cool.
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Stryped, have you ever heard of Google?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+is+metal+siding+installed
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On Apr 28, 10:04am, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

Surely, you jest. Give stryped a hint like that and he'll be back asking if he should believe what he might find.........
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(Doug Miller) wrote:

Surely, you jest. Give stryped a hint like that and he'll be back asking if he should believe what he might find.........
Really...He keeps starting a new thread on the same thing , each time adding or making something up to debunk any suggestions offered...He must figure if he asks it enough he will get the answer he wants eventually...LOL...I'm done with him...LOL...Beyond help and in WAY over his head...
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