How does gasoline go "bad"? When?

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http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2668/why-does-gasoline-go-stale-so-quickly
Basically answered all my questions -- I don't necessarily agree with it all, but it's a good discussion. For example, it's very difficult to oxidize a hydrocarbon without enzymes, catalysts, and the like. And I don't think the "lost volatiles" in old gas amount to much ito performance.
Bottom line is, I don't think "bad gasoline" ito age is much to worry about. After this bullshit with Sandy, NOW we got a gas crisis, so ahm fixin to store a bunch. I figger I'll "exchange" it yearly -- it's own pita, but it beats waiting 4 hours on line for 10 gals of fucking gas.
I used to scoff at survivalists.... but not any more. I'm realizing that urbanites/surburbanites are essentially walking around with their cheeks spread.
--
EA



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"Bottom line is, I don't think "bad gasoline" ito age is much to worry about."
I don't agree. If you store it you need to use a stabilizer.
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wrote:

"Bottom line is, I don't think "bad gasoline" ito age is much to worry about."
I don't agree. If you store it you need to use a stabilizer. ============================================= Mebbe a stabilizer would help for really long periods, but I think it could be stored for a year and still be OK, without stabilizers. The article seemed to indicate as much, if stored properly.
--
EA



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Existential Angst wrote:

I have stored gas for a year and although it will run a modern vehicle IF you blend it into fuel already in the tank you can tell that it isn't quite right. In small engines it runs MUCH worse. I rotate my gas every 3 months, not hard to do if you just dump the can into your vehicle, then fill the can back up. I tag all my cans with simple string tags and a marker. I have 20 gallons that is back-up for whatever. Then there are a couple others that are for the mowers/trimmers/ saws and such. The mixed fuels get mixed 1 gallon at a time and ONLY with non-ethanol gas. The saws and trimmers run MUCH better without the booze. So do most air cooled engines. The ethanol causes the engine to run leaner and hotter causing problems.
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wrote:

In response to jb, I think gas left in a lawn mower carb and gas left in a storage can are a bit different.
But, I'm all for feedback here, and mebbe 1 year is too long. I proly couldn't handle the gas-exchange hassle more than every 6 mos, tho.
The article did point out that booze gas should be more prone to aging effects, as the hydrophilic ethanol can attract more crap, like, well, water.
I'm basically looking for a ballpark as to what I can reasonably get away with, storage wise.
Funny thing, tho, this gas aging stuff.
--
EA












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I think the problem is how gummy the gas gets with time from all the additives they now use. The gasoline sold today is garbage compared to what it use to be.
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I occasionally use gasoline to clean bearings.
i would cean the bearings and leave the small pan outdoors overnite. by the next day all the gas would of evaporated leaving just some greasy dry crud i would wipe out with a rag and toss,
these days the gas leaves a non evaporating residue thats very gooey and perhap 1/5 the total of the original gas...
it never evaporates........
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Steve W. wrote:

Briggs & Stratton tell you not to store it for more than 30 days.
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On 11/02/2012 02:14 AM, bob haller wrote:

That's because the alcohol/water fraction doesn't evaporate off overnight, and it's "gooey" because the material you removed from the bearings is in it.
Jon
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I left a pan of the goo sit outside in a covered area for a month, the gooey sludge never evaporated, in earlier time just a hard crud would remain by the next morning.
gasoline has really changed
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On Fri, 02 Nov 2012 12:15:45 -0700, Jon Danniken

No, the heavy crap is (sometimes) oxidized fuel - basically a light tar - and occurs even if you haven't used it as a cleaning solvent. This id with OLD gas. Fresh gas should almost totally evapourate, but there is usually enough left to cause at least a stain.
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wrote:

The crap I removed from my generator smelled bad enough - and it was last run a couple years ago so it was not the "old type" gas - although it WAS old.

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Typically in this newsgroup, when people respond to someone's post (that itself is a response to yet another response ...), all that prior stuff builds up to maybe 20 times what you want to respond with.
If you like saving-to-disk some of these things, sure wastes a lot of disk space.
Just a thought.
David
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snipped-for-privacy@panix.com (David Combs) writes:

True.
The rules say, trim the stuff that's not relevant, but don't remove so much that you can't follow the thread.
--
Dan Espen

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Steve W. wrote:

You'll find most of the newer small engines sold have enlarged jets to run a little richer. If you're having issues with ethanol, drill your carb jets out one numbered size and you should be good to go. --scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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On Nov 2, 11:33am, snipped-for-privacy@panix.com (Scott Dorsey) wrote:

I've also heard that some small engines won't run very well with the 87 octane fuels, but they run just fine on the 92-93 octane fuels. I myself haven't run into this.
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wrote:

This is true with companies like Shell Canada that put NO hooch in the 93, and 10% in 87. Premium runs fine, regular like crap, and mid-grade so-so on engines that are sensitive to hooch in the gas.
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Scott Dorsey wrote:

I'd do that but you can get ethanol free premium gas locally and since the engines I have call for 90 octane+ it's just as easy to go that route. It runs about 20 cents a gallon more than the cheap stuff, but I'm only buying maybe 50 gallons a year. For 10 bucks it just isn't worth the trouble to re-jet.
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In the northeast (new york state), when I buy "regular", is there ethanol in it?
If so, how to buy gas *without* ethanol?
David
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On 12/15/2012 7:57 PM, David Combs wrote:

http://pure-gas.org
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