For a long time I've wondered how epoxy spray paint works. I've used
it and it is great, as hard as the paint that came on the washing
machine in the first place, but I thought epoxies were those which
mixed two ingredients at the time of use. Is that true? That doesn't
happen in a spray can does it?
And... About 12 sqare inches of my washing machine has chipped off
paint with some rust. It's not a removable part, and I can't take the
washer out of the basement. I think I can paint it in 2 minutes of
spraying, 12 or fewer 10-second sprays.
Would you be willing to do this in the basement? I could wear one of
the good? masks, costs about 30 dollars iirc, that has a charcoal
filter that absorbs vapors from paint, solvents, glues, thinners, and
pesticides, it says,
AOSafety, model 95050. Do you think it's safe for 2 minutes. I only
have 40 years left to live anyhow.
Well, i'll be lucky if I even have 30 years, but for medical purposes,
I used 40, because that's the outside limit (101).
Still 30 is a long time, I think.
No one else has an opinion on the risk of using spray paint indoors?
Epoxy spray paint!
I don't know about epoxy, but it may not be the cure. If the paint is
coming off due to rust from
the inside, paint won't stick either. Twelve square inches of paint
should not take more than
a few seconds of spraying and for that minimal amount, I wouldn't bother
with more than holding
a wet cloth over my nose/mouth. Is the stuff flammable? You could also
fashion a barrier around
what you are painting with clear plastic and have nothing to inhale.
All of this is moot because of your last suggestion, below, but I
I don't think it is rusing from the inside -- it's still quite thick
and strong -- but 'm not positive what the cause is. I think that
because I occasionally dried laundry on the side of the washer, that
is what damaged the paint. It's only in the front, and one place on
the side. This is a on old whirlpool machine where the whole top
lifts up (the lid is mounted to the "top"), and that piece is not
rusty in the slightest. Only the front piece (and that one spot on
the side), the piece that goes all the way to the floor, is rusty
I suppose. I haven't bought it yet. Even though I'm not going to
spray much, and I don't think it will reach explosion level, I guess I
should turn off the furnace until a while after I finish .I'll do
That is just a great idea. Great, great, GREAT. It will also keep
spray from drifting onto everything else, which I didn't even ask
about, because I thought it was hopeless and decided it was a burden I
would bear. (There is little there to protect, but the overspray, even
on a cardboard box would annoy me.) I've got lots of thin,
transparent, plastic drop clothes. Maybe I'll hang the middle of it
from the ceiling, and tape the sides lightly to the top and front of
the washing machine. Thanks a lot.
If this works, I'll look for a job in a clean room, or doing semi-
You might want to investigate Preval sprayers, which are for using with
your own paint. They
are a jar with aerosol can attached, hold about 8 oz.. They are great
for small jobs, have a more even spray
pattern than some aerosol cans and you can use your own paint. I use
them for craft
projects, louvered doors, etc. I repainted our old range hood using
and enamel. Paint needs to be thinned a bit, following label advice.
The range hood
looks just about like new. The spray doesn't drift much, but need to
mask nearby stuff.
I painted the hood in my kitchen, with brand-new kitchen cabinets right
above. In case
of runs, I keep a small foam brush wrung out with mineral spirits to
catch runs before
they begin to set. I have purchased Preval sprayers at HD and at paint
I have a friend who worked in a van conversion factory. She told me
about an employee
there who worked in the paint spraying operation. That guy went out to
the break room
one morning, got his coffee, sat down and lit a ciggie. He set his
clothing on fire, apparently
from the paint fumes absorbed. All moved quickly, no serious injury.
I used to do my messy work late at night, after children were in bed. I
was painting the
kitchen and had a bad stain to deal with. I had a spray can of
shellac-based primer that
I sprayed liberally onto the stained ceiling. It was a very warm, still
summer night. Windows open,
no breeze. The kitchen was full of paint mist, very dense, when I
remembered I had forgotten
to extinguish the pilot on the gas range. My first thought was to run
outside, but remembered
sleeping family :o) I got under the plastic tarp on the range and blew
out the pilot real
quick. Didn't worry at the time about what I was breathing.
Later in the same project, I was trimming wallpaper around the wall
switch for the lights.
Utility knife hit the contact and burned a nice little notch in the
blade. Fortunately, I think,
I was wearing rubber gloves :o) I've learned a great deal from my
>I thought epoxies were those which mixed two ingredients at the
There are "two-part" epoxy paints and "one-part" epoxy paints. The
one-part usually do not "cure", they dry.
A two-part contains a moderately low molecular weight epoxy resin in
solvent which you mix with an amine, also in a solvent. The epoxy
and the amine react (at the job site) to form a crosslinked film.
Crosslinked films can be made harder and more durable than non-
A one-part epoxy is actually a high molecular weight, non-crosslinked
resin manufactured by reacting a low molecular weight epoxy resin with
bisphenol A in a chemical reactor.. The resins may or may not
contain a small proportion of leftover epoxy groups. They may or
may not be used in situations where one "cures" the leftover epoxy
Once upon a time, when the earth was young and I worked with epoxy
resins, they used high molecular weight "curable" forms in industry,
and non-curable forms (no leftover epoxy groups) for sales to
The solid, high molecular weight material is dissolved in a solvent
more or less like a lacquer. If no curing agent is used, the dried
film is not crosslinked, and is not quite as durable as the cross-
linked film resulting from a two-part epoxy. However, all epoxy
based coatings tend to be very durable, a feature which compensates
for their higher cost-of-manufacture.
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