On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
It would NEVER start with just 2x. The owners manual says to use 6x; the
bulb has a 6x embossed just below it; and the complex starting instructions
on the sticker on the side say 6x. Even when new, it barely started with
6x. It took more like 8x to 10x.
Dunno if it's a California thing or not but it just never ran well.
From what people say, I either need to mess with the screws on the carb or
I need to find why (if) it doesn't have spark.
I can easily mess with the screws (after finding the procedure somewhere)
... but how do I tell if it doesn't have spark?
On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Champion RCJ7Y. None of the stores carried that but they told me a Champion
CJ7Y (without the R) is the same thing so that's what I put in there.
The plug, when pulled out hot, is dry as a bone so I'm pretty sure flooding
isn't the culprit. I'm beginning to suspect either the plugged fuel filter
(I didn't know chain saws HAD a fuel filter) or the spark coils are bad.
Don't know how to test the coils though.
If the plug is hot, it's prbably firing. You can check this by pulling the
plug, resting it against some metal and hold the saw steady while you yank
the cord (have someone help, just keep them away from the blade!)
If it sparks, start looking for fuel not getting there.
Um, when I was in telephone support, they told us the FIRST question to
ask was, Is it plugged in? I said, "you're kidding!" 30% of most problems
were because it wasn't...
So, full tank? Fresh gas? And, is the fuel shut off closed?
Hmm. If the spark plug comes out dry, that's a good clue.
You could put a couple drops of gas mix into the spark plug hole and
see if it runs for a second or two. I've also sprayed ether on the air
filter, that is a symptom check for fuel starvation. Only want to run
it for an instant, as the saw relies on the oil mixed in with the gas
to lube the crankcase bearings, rod bearings, and piston rings.
The R means it has a series resistor for EMI suppression. Probably
does not make much difference either way.
Turn the thing over with the plug removed from the engine, but sitting on
top of the engine to make good electrical contact. If you see a nice hot
spark, you have good magnetos. If you don't see a spark, your magneto or
points have an issue.
Magnetos don't fail very often, but it happens. Fuel systems clog all
the time, constantly.
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Husqvarna, and some other chain saws, have had problems with the
plastic gas line inside the gas tank cracking. When it does, the saw will
be hard to start or not start at all. In many of these saws it is easy to
replace the plastic tube with one of better quality, and replace the
filter at the same time. A saw shop can do it for you, if yours is bad,
or will sell you the improved fuel line.
You can check the ignition by pulling the start cord and observing the
spark plug gap. Naturally you have removed the plug and have it
touching the electrical ground of the chainsaw.
Thanks for the tips.
This is apparently a Poulan motor in the Craftsman chain saw.
The three fuel lines appear clear and unbroken. Chain saw is only a year
old. Fuel filter appears unclogged when I blow on it and has no visible
deposits. It's bright white. When I press the bulb, gas flows (I can tell
because I emptied it accidentally while I was holding it in my hands and it
filled right up with gas).
Gas is new. Mix is new.
I'm working on the carb screw as I type ...
It is not easy to see the crack in the line. Several models of chainsaws
had the problem, and it is not at all unusual from them to go bad within a
But the bottom line is to be sure you have fuel and spark, and if either is
missing, you have to work backward to locate the problem. Remember
the basics...you have to have spark (hot and at the right time), fuel,
and compression to have the engine run.
Did you check the plug gap and set it? I'm not a fan of plugs that
are pre-gapped. Male sure the plug has the proper heat range.
Follow the advise given here already about adjusting the carb
jet/screws. I tend to adjust them while the engine is running -- tune
If the screws are bottomed-out, usually back it off to 1.25 - 1.5
turns out. That will get you in the ball park.
Pierce the gas cap vent hole with a paper clip so make sure the hole
is open and vents the fuel tank.
That's the day you should have returned it to Sears for exchange or
your money back. Doesn't the Craftsman lifetime gaurantee apply to
motorized tools? Now you know why I haven't bought a Sears Craftsman
anything for 30 yrs!
You will have to ground the spark plug which isn't easy with all the
plastic on today's chainsaws. I'm assuming you have a good spark
though. I imagine what you will find is the typical set to run as lean
as possible until it's out of warranty small engine. They do this to
pass emissions tests. The carbs aren't adjustable as they come from the
factory, some you can pull the plastic stops off the mixture screw and
get a little more fuel to them some don't have the adjustment screws
anymore. You can buy a new carb cheap on e-bay. cheaper than buying a
kit and trying to fix one. With a little luck it will have both low and
high speed mixture screws and you can get the chainsaw running better
than new. And the fuel lines turn to gum especially with gasohol, and
it goes on and on...... If you do get a replacement carb be sure to get
the right one for your model engine
Unless you like messing with small engines it might be best to find
someone that works on them to get it usable. They should know all the
tricks. Ask around and find someone that fixes small engines part time
or for a hobby otherwise it won't be cost effective.
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 05:05:59 -0500, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:
I thought the same thing. It's hard enough to START the thing, with one
foot in the base of the handle, one hand on the top handle, and the other
pulling the cord.
But, it turned out to be (accidentally) easy ... because I had removed the
plug to test it. Putting the chain saw on the shop bench, turning the
lights off, and pulling the cord was easy (sans compression).
It sparks like a champ. Thanks for teaching me that trick.
Next I'll try the fuel filter to see if it's 'clogged'. I do see a clear
plastic hose, about a millimeter or two in diameter, that I'll try to fish
out and clean with compressed air & report back.
Thanks for the hints!
Using a paper clip, I fished out the clear plastic fuel line out of the
fuel tank of the Craftsman chain saw.
On the end of the fuel line was a 1-inch long white cylindrical tube of the
strangest material. Not hard like diatomaceous earth but not soft like
felt. Dunno what it's made out of.
It does not seem dirty in the least nor does it appear to be 'clogged'. I
blew on the end as the tip is smaller than the opening in my compressor air
I could put the fuel line temporarily back in without the filter to prove
it's not clogged but it really doesn't appear clogged in the least. I don't
see ANY sediment whatsoever nor is there undue 'resistance' when I blow on
it (there is some resistance but I assume that's from the filtering
I do see some "screws" near the carbeurator ... so I guess that's my next
debugging step ... and to doublecheck if sawdust clogged some air hole
somewhere (it's pretty clean as I blew it off with the compressor before
taking the covers off).
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