There is an exterior 10 ft wall to the garage that is made of 2x6 studs at
approx 16 inch centers. Upon examining the tile roof line, that 'external'
wall may be not a supporting wall at all. I can double check in the attic,
but most of this house construction uses 'floating' walls.
I want to cut a 36 inch wide 8 foot door into the garage from a storage
room. The cut exactly removes two studs. By code there is supposed to be a
fireblock at 8 foot height in this wall anyway, but those are inserted
short 2x6 pieces.
I plan on clearing out everything in that 3 panel area, temporarily
leaving the 2 studs. To put in the door requires two 8 foot long 2x6
sistered to each of the two outside studs. That leaves a very strong
support at the top for a 'header'.
Does anybody have experience doing this?
1. How large, what type, header? can I use something like four 2x6's
across the top? Or should these be four 2x8's ?? Or, should be a more
solid block? After the header is installed the two cut studs' weight will
be on that header.
2. Is it super dangerous to sever those two studs WITHOUT providing some
type of external support for the ceiling in some other way? Or, are these
roofing systems over designed enough to allow a one day
removal/replacement without all falling down?
How is an "external" wall "floating"?
A typical gable roof would normally have bearing walls on the sides the
rafters sit on, and non bearing walls on the two gable ends.
A hip roof bears weight on all four walls.
Impossible to say without knowing what that header is supporting. If it's
a non-bearing wall, you technically wouldn't need a header at all (though
I would still put one in). If you've got two stories with long joist
spans, a library, fish tanks, and a tile roof above, you'll probably need
a much larger header.
My house is a single story, and the headers only support the roof. I used
two 2x10's with insulation in between throughout the house for all
Why risk it? Just erect a temporary support wall just inside the room to
support the roof while you work on the wall.
If you don't mind patching the siding and interior finish, you could "let
in" the support headers. Basically, remove the siding and cut a notch in
each stud the thickness of the header board. Knock out the waste then
slip in and secure the header board. Repeat for the second header board
on the interior side of the wall. Add the jack studs to support the
header at each end, then you can safely cut out the middle studs under
On Tuesday, September 9, 2014 11:11:33 AM UTC-4, HerHusband wrote:
Sure sounds like it's a load bearing wall.
Actually I think you can say without knowing what the header is
supporting. He's removing two existing studs to make
the opening. As long as what he puts in there is sufficient to carry
the max load that those two studs were capable of carrying, then he's
at least equaled what is already there.
I'm kinda confused on the placement of this door. Is it going on an
exterior wall or what? If there is a garage on one side of the wall and
a storage room on the other, how is it an exterior wall?
Maybe a diagram would be in order. However... if the wall you want to
cut the doorway into run PARALLEL to the ceiling joists, it is generally
NON-load bearing. If perpendicular, it's probably carrying a load.
for a 36" run, 2x8 should be fine or go crazy, like I usually do, and
bump it up to a 2x10 header.
As someone else said, why chance it? Tack a 2x where the ceiling joists
meets the wall and wedge a couple more 2x's beneath it (floor to
ceiling) to temporarily carry the load. Nail in your jack or trimmer
studs, remove the interior studs, slip in the header and allow the two
cripples (remainder of the two studs you've removed)to rest snugly atop
the header and then remove the temporary support. Then cut out the
siding inside the door.
Similar situation with me - I put an exterior door between the garage
and house. Best decision I made was hiring a carpenter for $250 plus
the cost of the door & materials. 3 hours later and it was done to
code, plus he showed me everything he did so I would know it was to
code. No trips to Home Depot, no following bad advice from people
it is a single story and all the roof is hipped. In the patio areas, the
exterior wall is floating with no appreciable weight on them. But haven't
looked at this garage are to be sure.
When I remove the two studs, I will be cutting/clearing within the area
clear to the top. That gives me access to the two pieces sticking down and
indeed I can attach support directly to them as I cut them out. something
like fake studs inside the house and fake studs outside the house [in the
garage] and BOLT a short something between them all WAIT! simply triangle
them from where they're cut down to the floor/earth whatever! I see a way
this could be done without ever compromising the support ability! Great
suggestion thank you.
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