I am repainting our old house. We have wooden sash type windows. I
am putting on an oil base primer and two coats of finish. Does anyone
have any tips, or a method to employ, to avoid painting the windows
shut or minimize sticking,
First choose a paint with low blocking characteristics. I know I have
seen the suggestions about how to do the actual painting to help avoid
problems but I don't recall the procedure. I only had to paint windows once
and I did follow those instructions and used good low blocking paint (I
believe that oil is not all that good at low blocking, but I could be wrong)
and it worked well.
Make sure they are all moving really well before you start. The sticking is
caused by paint getting between the movable sash and the 1/4-3/8" stops (the
part that creates the channel for the sash to slide in). Remove all old
paint from the stops and wax them with paraffin before you start to paint.
Whatever seepage you do get will be far easier to scrape off if it is stuck
to wax and not to wood. Also try to put the thinnest layer possible at the
side of the sash where it meets the stops. Stop and work the windows up and
down about every 30 minutes during the day while painting and do not close
them completely at the end of the first day. They are far easier to break
loose with a downward motion then an up motion.
Some will stick no matter what you do.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Boatman) wrote in message
The way I do it is to completely disassemble the window. For
double-hung windows, take off the stops, remove the lower sash, then
remove the parting stops, then remove the upper sash. Paint each
piece separately and then reassemble. Of course whenever I do this,
it is on an old window that already has a zillion coats of paint on it
and is already painted shut, so I usually strip it to bare wood before
priming and painting. If it was lead paint on the window, then this
is also a way to remove the lead without having to replace the window.
(Which IMO, is important to do with an old house to retain its
character.) This also gives you a chance to replace the sash cords,
and perhaps plane the sashes to fit the opening in case the jambs are
no longer square, which is common in old houses. It takes forever to
do all this, but the window is as good as new when you are done.
On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 00:25:24 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
If I just painted the window frame and put the window in the
up position to dry, it would seal to the upper runners in that
position. These are old sash type windows, about 150 years old, not
modern tip outs.
I used Colbyt's suggestions about scraping and waxing the
channels, then took care when applying paint. I left the windows
partly open and checked for binding after half an hour. The results
were excellent. They actually run better now than originally.
P.S. Ridiculous is not spelled with an 'e' in it.
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