My home is 10 years old, I have just recently pulled up my carpet and have
started pulling up my linoleum. I would love to stain my concrete but I'm
stuck. My slab has glue marks and some sort of leveling compound under the
linoleum. I need to remove the leveling compound but I'm not sure how. I
tried scraping but that is extremely difficult and time consuming. Is there
another way and what do I do about the glue marks?
On 07/03/2013 06:57 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I'm thinking that's the ticket.
If it were just glue, some floor stripper and one of those floor cleaner
machines with the big pad that looks like a scotchbrite pad would
probably do it (I actually did something similar in my last house; there
were old linoleum tiles in the laundry room and the concrete underneath
was in good shape and bare concrete didn't bother me so long as it was
clean) but I don't think it will touch the leveling compound.
It might cost more money but rather than trying to stain concrete that's
had flooring put over it previously, some new flooring might be less
hassle I'd think.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 8:42:54 AM UTC-4, Nate Nagel wrote:
After I made my post, I thought I should have added that too.
I don't have experience with staining concrete, but here are
some thoughts to consider. I'm sure you can get concrete stained
to the level that it's appropriate for an interior floor. But
I bet most times it's done like that, it's probably planned in
advance, so the concrete is finished perfectly, then the stain
is applied before anything else mucks it up. If this is a
typical residential slab pour, I wonder if the finish of the
concrete is perfect enough for it to look good. Maybe the
sander approach could fix that, but if there are any deep
gouges, etc, then what? If you fill them in, not sure how
the stain would look, ie would you see that area stand out,
etc? And if you sand, what a mess, going to need a respirator,
I agree with you, another flooring choice would be easier
and the results predictable.
Apply a concrete overlay to your existing concrete slab:
Use acid stain (not pigment) to achieve desired color/texture effect,
then coat with urethane.
What is Concrete Overlay?
DCI Concrete Overlay is a durable, ultra-strong, and easy-to-apply
concrete layer that is mixed with water. Save money and time refinishing
existing slabs with concrete overlay. Removing concrete is costly and
disruptive. Extend the life of your patio, driveway or porch with a
colored or stained Direct Colors concrete overlay.
Complete texture concrete overlay is hardy and strong. It is ideal for
stamping, trowel stenciling, or as a primer coat on previously stamped
or tiled surfaces. Smooth texture concrete overlay can be troweled down
or sprayed with a hopper gun at low PSI for a super smooth texture and
high work-ability. It is perfect for smooth finish flooring spray-on
stenciling and vertical applications.
How to Apply Concrete Overlay
Surface preparation is crucial to a successful concrete overlay project.
While an overlay provides a clean slate to work on, the existing
concrete slab must in good condition and free on any contaminants before
1. Remove de-laminating sealers, coatings, paint or glue present on the
concrete. Mop the floor to remove any loose debris from the floor
2. The surface must be solid; break out and remove any unsound concrete
caused by scaling or minor spalling.
3. Fill all active cracks. Any cracks equal to or wider than the width
or a credit card will typically require repair using concrete patch
product. Allow to dry thoroughly before applying.
4. If the existing concrete is sealed or excessively smooth, scuff the
surface with a sander to allow for better bonding between the surface
and the overlay. Scuffing is required for countertops with formica or
tile finishes prior to overlaying.
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 12:45:03 AM UTC-5, DIYmom wrote:
m stuck. My slab has glue marks and some sort of leveling compound under th
e linoleum. I need to remove the leveling compound but I'm not sure how. I
tried scraping but that is extremely difficult and time consuming. Is ther
e another way and what do I do about the glue marks? -- posted from http://
ing-754480-.htm using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface t
o home and garden related groups
If applying a concrete overlay as suggested, what is the minimum thickness
of the overlay and will it work with existing door heights?
If the existing, exposed concrete is sufficiently cleaned and roughened,
it can accept very thin overlays that can be durable and last for years
under normal foot traffic.
"Polymer cement overlays, consisting of a proprietary blend of
Portland cements, various aggregates and polymer resins, were
introduced over 20 years ago. The purpose of adding a polymer
resin to the cement and aggregate is to greatly increase the
performance characteristics and versatility of conventional
cements, mortars and concrete materials.
Unlike conventional cement and concrete mixes, polymer cement
overlays can be applied thinly or thickly without fear of
delamination or typical product failure. In addition, polymer
cement overlays are much more resistant to damage from salt,
petrochemicals, UV, harsh weather conditions and traffic
Most specs I've seen say 1/8", which should be no problem given the OP
had a layer of something (linoleum?) on top of the concrete.
The OP should read this to get a basic idea of possibilitites:
Although much of the contents of that wiki page comes directly from
various companies in that business, such as this one:
Other links of interest:
I especially recommend this link:
"This decorative stained concrete floor was created using a
self-leveling cement overlay installed over old, badly
damaged concrete in a basement in NW Portland. The new overlay
was then colored using TerraCotta acid stain, and 100% solids
epoxy was floated on thick to increase depth and gloss."
If we are talking about a slab-on-grade, one thing to look out for when
sealing a slab with something like acrylic or epoxy is water penetration
into and through the slab from the underside, which is particularly
acute in basement floor situations. If the structure has proper
water-diversion and removal from around or under the foundation, that
shouldn't be a problem.
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