I read that too. However, I have both paper and fiberglass tapes but for a DIYer like me fiberglass is the way to go and there is also no need for quick setting compound either if you're not in a hurry like the pros who need to get out and get paid fast. Never had problems with either paper or tape in the last 20 years. I've repaired many holes where the tenant slams the doorknob into the sheetrock with fiberglass tape without problems. Further, lets be realistic: at high contraction and expansion stress points even steel reinforced tape is not going to help.
There are two different blue lid buckets of compound commonly found on the shelf/pallet at your local home center: light blue and dark blue, which represent Topping Joint Compound and AP Joint Compound.
Pay attention to the name of the product. The light blue lids are on the buckets of Topping. You don't tape with the light blue lids. It says so right on the bucket. It is for finish coats only, and sands nicely.
You tape with the green lid, also known as all-purpose or "AP", or the darker blue lids, which signify Joint Compound. If you get confused, read the back of the bucket.
As for the mesh tape, it is self-adhesive. There is nothing wrong with using it for the flats, but you'll want to use paper for the corners (including the wall-ceiling joint). With *paper* tape, you lay a bed coat of mud first. Stick the *mesh* tape directly to the drywall - there is no bed coat application until *after* the mesh tape is stuck to the wall.
There are red lids on some ceiling texture and plaster products as well.
There is a big difference between the ready-mixed compounds and the setting-type compounds. The latter dries mostly as a matter of a chemical reaction, while the former dries mostly as a matter of evaporation, and is referred to as "drying-type". The setting-type compounds are stronger, and are used by many for the bed coat. They do dry faster. They come in powder form, but be aware, there is also a drying-type compound that comes in powder form, though I've yet to see it on the shelf.
Setting compound has other advantages too. It's stronger, I believe. Also works in colder, damper weather, especially when you have to work "outside", like in a garage or unfinished house.
I guess I've never seen primer. BIL sent me to the big box store and said get the little bucket with the red top right near the green lids. I still have the bucket so I went to see what it was.
Turns out it is DAP, not USG. [my green lids are USG] "Dap Professional Grade, Smooth Finish, Sands Easily"
That's what I enjoy most about getting older. Much easier to stick to the Shaker philosophy of treating each job as your last, and time as if it has no limit.
I have done drywall once before, when I re-did a bathroom. That was my first big DIY project, and I'd do it again.
I bought both paper and fiberglass tape, and I preferred the paper to the fiberglass.
One thing you might check into, depending on the size job, is if you are able to rent a tool the pros use. I have seen professionals use a tool that applies mud and tape simultaneously. It's a long stainless steel or aluminum box that you fill with mud. Somehow paper tape is fed through the box with the mud. (picture a hand held spool of correction tape, only on a bigger scale).
The tool allows the proper amount of mud to be applied to the tape, and also saves steps by applying tape and mud to the wall all at once instead of one at a time. The pros use this tool because it adds effeciency to their job.
I know that i bought a corner trowel, but i can't remember if i liked it or not. I halfways think I ended up using a one inch putty knife to do the inside corners instead of the corner trowel.
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