That's a very good point. I was kind of dancing around
that when giving the reasons to use a pre-hung door.
It makes it easy to get a perfect door that is square,
closes properly, etc. I also said that he is
underestimating the effort in building a door and
HANGING it. The above though really nails it. It's
a 50 year old framing job. Has he even put a square
and level to it?
That's about where I'm at too. I just had visions of
him spending a lot of $$ and time, screwing around,
building a door. Then he goes to hang it and finds out
the framing is out of square. Then he spends hours
trying to make it fit that opening. Or that it warps 6 months
later. I'm not a big fan of re-inventing the wheel when
suitable solutions are readily available.
Best advice I can give at this point is either fix the
old door or look at videos of how doors are installed.
On Thu, 12 Jul 2012 12:01:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
It's an unfinished garage. Mine is the same as his, except it's a
solid door. I don't know where you get the idea framing isn't normally
square, or doubled 2x4 studs and headers "sag."
And those are bigger actual size 2x4's then what they cut now.
My circa '59 is still square. A pre-hung door is what would look out
of place in an unfinished garage.
He never posted a decent close-up of the door stiles, or hinges.
Loosened stile-to-rails makes a door sag. A loosened upper hinge
makes a door sag. Anybody can check with a simple square.
Every sagging door I've fixed was fixed by resetting the hinges tight
because the screws had pulled out. A drill, dowels and glue.
Yep. Seeing the door, it's a nice one, and I'd try to keep it, even
if I had to take it apart.
Don't know if he can do it though.
+1 to that. Framing members are in fact frequently not perfectly
square or even straight. Just take a look at a typical 2x4 in the
at HD. Even if you took extra care to make the ones for a door
frame perfectly square when nailing, you still have variations
in the 2 x 4's themselves that make them unsuitable compared
to a shimmed door jamb. Then you have to make the rough
opening a precision opening. It would be like requiring that a
kitchen cabinet cutout be precise to 1/16" all the way around
to fit an oven instead of making it a rough opening that makes
it easy and allows for tolerance. That's why the door jamb,
plus shims are used. And why most doors are sold as pre-hung,
to make the installation easy and relatively foolproof.
I don't see why a pre-hung door would look out of place in
a 1950's detached garage either. From the pics, this garage
already has vinyl siding, what about that?
If he can't repair the original door, which doesn't look bad at all,
then I seriously doubt any door that he builds from scratch
is going to look better in that garage than a pre-hung. That's
why we presented a pre-hung as an option. But from all I've
seen and heard I think repairing the existing door is the best
I am surprised that you are having a problem finding a replacement door that
is that size. 32 x 80 is a standard size. I don't remember the standard
thickness, so I don't know if they are 1.25 inches thick. But a door that
is not exactly the same thickness can still be installed by either adjusting
the trim or having Building a new one seems like it would be a real project
and a pain to have to do.
For those who didn't see the original "Sagging Garage Door" post (I had to
look it up), here it is:
I have a detached garage (built in 1955) door made of wood segments joined
woodwork that looks something like tongue-in-groove flooring. Replacing the
door is probably impractical.
On the garage door, some of the grooves are working loose making one end
of the door sag. I had to plane the knob end of the door to keep it from
scraping the floor. Worked for a while, now it scrapes again.
You can see what is going on if you view the following Photobucket pix
In the last pic, the lower segment of the door is pulling away at top-of-
segment. If the joints are loose enough to allow the observed sagging, it
seems like it should be possible to reverse the sagging (i.e. by storing
the door upside down or somesuch) and then reinforce it to hold true. But I
havent figgered out how.
Does anybody know of any tricks/techniques for reinforcing/repairing such
Heck, for that I'd just use lag bolts, way easier than trying to take the
door apart or build a new one...
1. Counter sink three 1" +- holes centered on the edge of the hinge stile
deep enough so heads of bolts won't interfere with door action. They need
to be of sufficient diameter to accomodate the head of the lag and a socket
to drive it. Put the holes about 1 1/2" from top/bottom of rail and roughly
in its center.
2. Clamp the door so stile and rail are mated and - using a long bit - drill
pilot holes through the stile and into the rail to accomodate the lags.
Plan to use 3/8" lags, maybe even 1/2", 5/16 minimum, and make your pilot
holes so that you have at least 1" of lag in the stile and 2" in the rail.
More is better within reason.
2a. Optional: Run in the lags then remove and work some super glue into
the holes in the rail with a skewer. The reason is that the lags will be in
end grain in the rail and the threads that the lag cuts into the wood will
be weak. Super glue firms them up very nicely. Let the glue dry - if you
can smell it, it isn't dry. When dry, redrill.
3. Put in the lags, use a washer under the head.
4. Fill the countersink holes with a piece of glued in dowel or with Bondo.
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