Hot Water Questions

First Question: We have a Oil Fired Furnace supplying our domestic hot water. We are finding little partiles of like rust/sand in the water. Is there a filter made for hot water? What brand is the best?
Second Question: We are finding not a lot of pressure in the hot water. Is there a pump you can add to the hot water outlet side to increase pressure? We are on an artisan well if that matters.
Thanks.
Steve
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No you don't. You have a boiler. Furnaces heat air, boilers heat water.

You have other problems, likely a clogged coil. That explains the particles in the water as well as the low pressure. I don't know if they can be cleaned out or if it has to be replaced. If it is old, chances are it is shot.
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thanks for the reply, but I knew something was wrong with coil in my "BOILER", but you still never answered my questions.
Steve

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Bottom posting will help this discussion progress more smoothly.
Edwin probably assumed you had the ability to extrapolate from what he said to the next logical idea: You need to first determine if the coil is the problem, and then fix it if necessary. Adding a filter will just mask the real problem.
Water pressure: Did the problems coincide with the debris problem?
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I'm fine with masking the problem until i have to fix the problem, $300 is not in my budget right now.
Yes and No about the depris. A number of things happened. My plumber installed a water softener and at the same time screwed around with the pressure tank's pressure settings, i'm not sure what the problem is. Could be the water softener, pressure tank or clogged coil.
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Why did you not bring this up in the first post?
In any event, a filter is not the solution. You still have to determine the source of the particulate. If it is in the hot and not the cold, it is coming from the boiler. Did it start soon after the softener was installed? It may be the accumulated crud and minerals from years of hard water being loosened up now. You chose to ignore my answer the first time anyway. I chose it ignore the filter question since that is not the proper remedy. If you want to filter and the resulting pressure drop, go right ahead; I don't care if you crap up your system.
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Wow, nice guy, thanks for the answer.
wrote in message

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You have a domestic coil in the boiler that heats your water. With hard water the coil will have a lot of hardness scale formation. Softened water will dissolve the scale and possibly cause the "sand"; little balls of hardness. They can block up your faucet tip aerators, remove and clean them, that may help.
You have a well water system or there would not be a pressure switch or tank. If your plumber adjusted the pressure without adjusting the captive air pressure in the pressure tank, that can cause 'low pressure' complaints. The air must be 1-2 psi less than the cut-in setting with no water in the pressure tank. I.E. 30/50 gets 29-28 air pressure with no water in the tank. You should have a water pressure gauge on the tank tee. Run water until the pump comes on, that's the cut in (30), then shut it off and note the pump shuts off, that's the cut out (50). Or 40/60 etc..
BTW, leave Ed alone, he's a good guy and correct. You want to cure the cause of the problem, not put a band aid on it which won't make anything better anyway.
Now, what is the $300 for? I suspect the plumber has told you he can run acid through the coil to remove the scale? The softened water will do that in time; like two weeks or so.
Gary Slusser Quality Water Associates
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Yes, plumber said there might be little particles from the hard deposits breaking loose from the coil and pipe, but it's been about 2 months since the water softener has been installed and still the deposits. So I'm guessing the coil is shot, which is about 300 bux to fix.
about the pressure tank, I will experiment tonight.
yeah, Ed got snippy, i just got snippy back, sorry Ed.
Thanks Gary.
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wrote:

Do you have a pressure gauge? You should be able to get an inexpensive one that will screw on to any hose bibb. Would be nice to know what the pressure is before and after the boiler. You could get hot water pressure after the boiler by screwing the gauge onto the hot water connection to your washing machine. (And clean out/replace the little cone-shaped filters in that connection while you are at it, along with any others in sinks, bathroom facucets, etc) You could also compare it with the cold water pressure at the same spot. I'm not an expert, but I would guess that this information would be of benefit to those who are in their attempts to help you. In the interim, you could visit the mfgrs web site, and/or call him to find out what his specs are for pressure in, recognizing that there is probably a reducing valve in the system already. You might even luck out with the install sheet for you boiler, or some suggestions as to what might help.
You could also ask in this forum: http://forums.invision.net/index.cfm?CFIDG50644&CFTOKEN c2d9-7bde0204-87cf-480a-868a-4701fb6f4233&CFApp=2& or http://tinyurl.com/23lrbr
If you do, make certain you have all the name/model/etc data in your message
If in fact the coil in the boiler is plugged and needs replacement, and the boiler is old, you may have trouble find one, or even getting the old one out. I'm nursing one along now waiting the day I have to scrap the boiler because I can't find a new tankless coil, and would probably break the bolts off trying to get the damn thing out if I could find one.
YMMV starrin
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