Hot water boiler (residential) problem


Hi,
My boiler was leaking water from the pressure relief valve and running at about 40psi. So, I changed the expansion tank, pressure relief valve, water regulator, and the component that let's out the steam and keeps the water in. To accomplish this, I drained water from the pressure relief valve. The pressure after draining the whole water was still showing at 10psi. I turned the water inlet, and temperature immediately went to about 28psi. When the temperature rises to about 180-185 degrees, it goes as high as 30psi, but no water falls out of pressure relief valve.
I don't know what else to do. Do you think my psi gauge is bad? A friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi, however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control that... Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
If you think it's the gauge.. is it easy to change and just screw out, or something more complicated?
Thanks.
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Nov 2006 09:27:00 -0800, wrote:

I doubt it's your gauge - the PRV is supposed to vent at 40 psi - if that's what your gauge said, it's spot on.
Do you have a tankless water heater coil in the boiler for domestic hot water? Sometimes those can leak water into the boiler, building pressure over time.
--
Seth Goodman

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Nov 2006 09:27:00 -0800, wrote:

Actually, your friend may be right. 100 PSI is very high. It's possible that the water regulator is leaking a little water at such high pressure - it only takes a slight leak to build up pressure in the boiler over time. If you're using a feed valve like this one:
http://www.watts.com/pdf/ES-1156F.pdf
you'll note that its maximum rated input pressure is 100 PSI.
Most domestic plumbing fixtures are rated at 75 psi max. You're potentially damaging *all* your plumbing fixtures. I'd suggest putting in a pressure-reducing valve right at your main water valve, and setting it around 60 psi.
--
Seth Goodman

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Hi Seth, Thank you for your response. I don't think the water regulator is leaking because I just changed it yesterday. Eventually I am going to get a pressure reducing valve by the meter. For now I am stumbled, and trying to figure out what's going on. By the way, the PRV's are suppose to set off at 30PSI... not 40. Also I dont' have water heating coil.
Thanks Again.
Seth Goodman wrote:

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I dont know why you changed anything, your problem is probably your autofeed valve. You dont need to leave it on unless you have steam heat, HW is a closed system. Drop your water pressure to 10-12 and see what happens, keep the autofeed closed, if pressure increases more than 4lb your expansion tank was and is to small. You only need enough pressure to get water to the highest floor, I run mine at 12 and the boiler is in the basement of 3 upper floors, a total of 4 floors. If the top floor radiators get cold add a few more lb. Autofeeds are known to go bad, turn it off, if level drops you have a leak to fix. Boilers last longest at lowest pressures.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Your problem most likely is with the Watts water feed reulator. In a very basic hot water setup most installers put in the Watts which maintains a presure between 12 - 15 psi. If your loosing water from the PRV, then most likely it's doing it's job because the auto feed isn't. Your expansion tank was probably OK and the next time you want to check it is to just feel the bottom of it. It should be cold. This is because theres a bladder of air in it which helps with the fluxuations in water temp and pressure. What you can do is shut off the water to the boiler and take the auto feed apart. You'll see a diaphram inside and may find that there is a lot of junk in there that may be keeping it open, but I would just replace it. Maybe $20 or so bucks at HD.
-paul
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Thank you everyone for your advice and help. I found out that my gauge is bad. Last night I drained the system again and the pressure gauge is stuck at 10.... when I tap on it, it goes down to 6psi. I called Hydrotherm, my boiler company, and found out the part number 20-1014 is the pressure and temperature gauge for 23.06. Going to buy and replace over the weekend. Does anyone know how the gauge comes off? Everyone says it's just twist off? My boiler has a nut behind it. Dont' want to get stuck with no heat in cold weather... wife will probably kill me! lol
Also, when I took off the expansion tank... it was full of water... so that was definitely bad as well. i think the boiler is about 15 years old, and it was time for all the parts to be replaced anyway... It has served well all this while.
Thanks again. Shoaib Chaudhry. snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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BTW, here is the boiler.. and the gauge I want to change is right in the front...
http://www.hydrotherm.com/html/id.asp
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Since you already called the boiler manufacturer and they gave you the part number, call them back ask them how to remove the gauge. Who better to ask?
-paul
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Ok.... Everyone.. I found out that the gauge was bad. Unscrewed the gauge counterclock wise and replaced with the new one. BINGO! Everything works great. May be i changed all the parts unneccesarily except for expansion tank which was filled with water.
Thanks everyone for your help.! Regards. Shoaib. snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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