Honeywell Chronotherm III problem

For the last couple of days, the thermostat has been displaying on and off something like "737 -AC" insted of the usual display of the current temp.
At the same time, it has NOT been heating up the house properly
I changed the batteries and tested the old ones. But they were fine. So are the new ones
And yet, the heating system does not seem to be getting the house up to comfortable temp
And I'm not sure if it's the furnace controls or what ?
I am presuming that this is some kind of error code I have the user's manual, but it's pretty sparse about troubleshooting and and totally empty about error codes. And I'm not even sure if it's the furnace or the thermostat
Any help would be appreciated.
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Most of the time if it says "AC" that means the thermostat is not getting power. If the furnace is coming on, then I don't think that is the problem. Make sure the metal "clips" that make contact with the batteries are clean. If they are AND you put in new batteries, you may want to think about getting a new thermostat...
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Just to respond, I took the time to clean ALL the contacts that I could reach, not just for the batteries, but those also that connect 5the thermostat to the wall bracket (and wires to the furnace). Thinks look OK, and have not had any error codes since. So you may have hit on the source of the problem
Ultimately, I would like to make some changes to the system anyway. So, this is a motivator to start looking at the how of it.
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Read up on the different thermostats and their functions. I am partial to Honeywells. I know they are always improving their technology, but I wish they would have kept the Chronotherm line. I'm about ready to change mine with one of their touuchscreen models:
http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com/visionpro.html
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I'm looking at putting thermostats and presence sensors to drive motors on the duct outlets, so that more (warm or cold) air goes to occupied rooms. And unoccupied rooms are less well provided. Also program into them whenever they are in high use. Eg Bathrooms kept warmer in the evening before bedtime. Setback if house empty but crank up the heat just before people come home So I'll probably have to look at X-10 and similar systems. Probably dedicate one of my old laptops with an older version of LINUX to actually run the logic.
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7:37 is the Grennich mean chronological time displayed -AC is a little more serious. This means your A/C will need to be replaced immediately. Bubba
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wrote:

One has to wonder the motivation of morons who respond with such nonsense to what is a serious problem when the outside temperatures are around 0F without the wind chill factor.
You give bubba's a bad name, guy Get a life
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One might also wonder the amount of brain cells left in the head of a fool with such "a serious problem when the outside tempreatures are around 0F without the wind chill factor". One would expect one with a halfway competent mind to open the phone book and call a competent licensed professional to secure the repair before the home incurred some serious damage such as water pipes freezing, bursted pipes, soaked drwall ceilings caving in and hardwood floors buckling. One might find it funny to see such an idiot looking for advice in a newsgroup where you have no idea of the level of expertise of the responder while ones home is turning into an icicle. Bubba (the one with a brain AND a life) **whats your excuse?"
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wrote:

My home is NOT turning into an icicle for a bunch of reasons 1) I have one gas-fired fireplace which runs at nearly 90 % efficiency and can keep my house warm at a comforatble 68 degrees as long as the natural gas flows. 2) I have another wood-fired fireplace in the basement which can also heat all 3 floors of the house without much problem. And I also have 3 FULL cords of wood, well seasoned and ready to burn. to keep me toasty well into next fall, where I to so choose 3) I also have 5 20# tanks of propane, that are filled to capacity and a propane heater that can keep the whole house, if not toasty, at least comfortable for over a week. Where everything else to fail
The furnace just happens to be more efficient than my backups. Although not by much So I can actually survive till spring if I so choose and only use the furnace to filter and circulate air to keep the house evenly comfortable.
So what exactly where you assuming, like the solid ass that you are ? Nah ! Don't bother aswering. Whatever you may respond is just not worth my time. But thanks for playing and demonstrating that without a doubt, you truly are a GREAT horse's ass packed full of shit. <plonk>
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than 68 degrees if I so choose. My heat pump that is connected to my 90% eff var spd 2 stg furnace also works quite well even when it got down to about 5 degrees last night. I hope your wood pile holds out till spring. Just pray a little longer. Maybe your solution will fall from the sky and bash your head in. Bubba
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The motivation to respond is so assholes like you will write that kind of crap.
Serious problem? So if it's that fucking serious, why not call someone in to repair it???
Asshole....
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wrote:

That's an excellent signature that describes you to a "T". Clearly you should look in your mirror to see a TRUE asshole, large enough to pack a container ship
Now, although I won't bother reading it, I'll let you have the last word I have better things to do with my time. <plonk>
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Yeah, he's like this a lot.,
I don't know your thermostat, or what is wrong, but as more and more people have fancy therimostats, and it's cold out, maybe someone who knows this stuff could give a backup procedure for bypassing the thermostat entilrely on those nights and weekends when they find it not working.
That is, all the thermostat does iirc is connect or not connect one set of two wires (that turn the fan on as opposed to automatic) and two of three wires (either the Heat and the Ground, or the AC and the Ground) Nice people here have explained this already, and maybe if one googled for "thermostat furnace red black green yellow**" one could put together a set of rules for getting through the night. (Well, I wouldn't let it run *all* night, but you could warm the place up to 72, turn it off, and get up again when it was 62..
**or whatever the colors are
IIUC, there is no emergency need to have the fan be on anything but automatic, so that just leaves 3 wires to fiddle with, and one is for AC. Leaving just two wires. They can be jumpered at the thermostat or at the furnace (without disconnecting the thermostat I think) Come to think of it, you could probably take the thermostat out of any space heater***, and use that in your jumper. Then you could get a good night's sleep. OR you could install the thermostat you removed from the wall when you put this one in. You saved it, I hope.
***Make sure you don't use one from a fan. They look the same but work backwards. Also I wonder about the -AC code being related to the batteries in the thermostat, since batteries are DC. Car companies give out the codes; it would be nice if thermostat companies did too.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.
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