I disagree, but the pipe could easily be larger.
The pipe would go to the top of the water heater, then back down through the
3" vent. Water would condense in the downward path and leave via a pinhole, but it wouldn't condense on the way up, because of the higher temperature.Nick
whoa.... are you saying it's a "double hot" outlet?
That would _usually_ be ok, but cancertainly cause problems...
We might call it that.
Nick
Nonsense. I plug mine into my transfer panal all the time.
Vaughn
Hmmm. I'll check further. I got this from Maurice Higgins, who put those homemade parallel cable pictures on the web site. And IIRC, the EU2000 user's manual mentions this...
Then again, PECO's off-peak rate is about 6 cents./kWh, so 5.5 isn't a big savings. Maybe the gas water heater should be part of a woodstove chimney, with a draft suction fan at the bottom and 3" galvanized pipe popped into the flue with the edges unsnapped to lessen liquid creosote corrosion.
Nick
I stand corrected. The note on page 14 of the on-line user's manual says the receptacle grounds are connected to the frame, and the wiring diagram on page 54 shows that, but I couldn't find any warning not to connect the rectangular pins to the ground, and Vaughn does this, so it seems OK :-)
Nick
X-No-archive: yes On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 15:33:12 GMT, "Toller" used recycled pixels to say:
How to piss people off and turn your trolls to gold, cross posting at that!
------------------------------------------------ Autobot This Spammers!
mailto:postmaster@127.0.0.1 (to reply to actual address, dispense the dots before and after sirname.
Best if the neutral and ground are tied together at one location. The ground is a saftey item. Neutral is designed to carry the current.
House wiring, the ground and neutral are tied together at the entrance panel. No where else.
I think there may have been such an issue with the early versions of the inverter generators. Anyhow, page 18 specifically addresses connecting the generator to a building electrical system. Basically, it just tells you to use a transfer panel.
Since the neutral is not connected to the ground internally in the generator (also P. 18) you may measure virtually anything (or nothing) from either power terminal to ground if you are using a sensitive meter. To see if that voltage is "real" (and not just a bit of leakage) use an incandescent test lamp instead of a meter.
Vaughn
"Vaughn" wrote in news:qQgkf.215357$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
My little Yamaha plugs into my transfer panel also, and lives to generate another day, those cheap inverters on the other hand........... Rob
Yes, as far as I know Yamaha makes a great inverter generator. You, on the other hand.......
volts from each pin to
would damage the inverter,
transformer.
For a lot of 'temporary' power sources that are meant to be connected into a regular utility fed service panel, it is common to leave the 'ground' and 'neutral' separated by the manufacturer. This gives you the most flexible configuration.
In some code installations, the ground is tied to the service panel ground, and the neutral tied just to the panel neutral. And then the two are tied together in the service panel only. This type of connection allows for three-conductor transfer switch that switches two 'hots' and the neutral between grid and emergency power source.
If the local power source has the neutral tied to ground at the generator/inverter, then when connected to the main service panel you have two ground-neutral ties (one at source, one at panel) and that's generally a bad thing.
If the local generator/inverter is meant to be the sole source of power, then it can have neutral and ground tied at the source.
It all varies with whether the inverter feeds the main panel or a sub-panel, whether it's the sole power source or there's a transfer switch from grid power, etc...
With an output that is isolated from the ground, it isn't unusual to read about 1/2 the voltage output between 'hot' and a ground, but the exact reading depends on the meter and amount of circuitry. It's really just a form of 'leakage' and not a 'hard' reading.
daestrom
Maurice Riggins adds:
Nick
I made no assumptions. I simply took the time to read the manual. As both I and another poster pointed out, you are reading a leakage voltage because the ground is not referenced to the hot or neutral. You need to add a load to get a correct reading.
Vaughn
Correct. Since the ground is attached to the frame that means all the metal structure around the inverter is tied to that wire.
If a high value resistor were tied between the ground and neutral the reading to the ground would most likely disappear. Just something to bleed off the induced voltage. As someone else said they are not tied together in the generator to avoid a double ground when tied into another system.
It's too cold or I would fire up my generator and see what it reads. This does bring up an interesting subject in that when an RV is plugged into the generator the ground is still floating. RVs do not tie their grounds and return either. Well, not usually. If they do they often can't plug into many campground systems because the CGs use ground fault detectors. If the ground and return are tied together some current will flow in both wires tripping the detector.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.