Your claim..........
Ask you provide the sites then.
We turn the heat pump OFF at 5:00 every day.
It might cycle for a loooong time once its turned back on at 7:am the next morning, but its sole task is to bring heat into the building, and irrevelant is the amount of heat the structure is able to store, or that it loses during the period the heat source is shut off.
If I remember, this question was about the "setback" when programming a thermostat. The question was quickly, or originally confused with the "differential setting" of a programmable thermostat. No one has pointed out that some (at least one that I know about) have a "differential setting" that can be programmed. That value is nominally set to "10" on the stats I've programmed, and the value is, I think, 10x the on/off degree difference for the system. This is sometimes called an anticipator setting, I think. The 10 "degree setting" that the original writer heard about on a radio show (or somewhere) for the "differential" has NOTHING to do with how low a thermostat should be setback. Perhaps someone who has access to the original posting can check this out, since I am not an expert in heating systems. Because of this, I have been waiting for an expert to comment; since that does not seem to be happening, I'll take a chance that my understanding of the "differential" setting on a programmable thermostat is correct. --Phil
Good point...These are the settings I use
normal setback 10 degrees
Differential on programmable stats (single stage gas/electric)normal 1.0 to
1.5 degrees Differential on mechanical stats (single stage gas/electric) 2 - 5 degreesheat pumps and 2 stage will normally be 1 - 2 degrees differential on the first stage with the second stage being 3 - 5 degrees below the set point.
Other folks may use different settings...your milage may vary.
Now, you have to factor in personalities. I'm happy sleeping in a tent at 35 degrees, with a serious sleeping bag. At home I'd be happy with the house at
50, since I have a down comforter that was apparently designed for the Arctic.My significant other - she's a different story. She thinks the comforter is too warm. But, she bases this opinion on how it feels when we first get in bed. At that time, the house hasn't cooled down yet. I could outline my plan for dealing with this, but as we've already established earlier in the discussion, there is no logic to how women perceive temperature.
When I install a programmable stat, I do the initial installer programming, I don't mess with the factory default time/temp settings, and leave the owners manual (not the installers instructions) with owner.... after that, they are on their own. You can do what you want.
Haven't been up north much, eh? :-)
I only turn back about 4-5 degs as it just has to run that much more to catch up and you are not saving anything, I leave the fan on 24-7.
Tom
Wrong.
Wrong.
Nick
Suggest you limit your athletics to places other than under the comforter. Prior to insertion between the sheets, remain above the covers scantilly clad for several minutes of inactivity while herself and everything else has a cooldown period. Once she feels a bit cold, get into the cold bed. Now, because the body is a bit chilled, the bed takes a few minutes before feeling warm and when it does, it is a welcome sensation so the comforter doesn't feel like a nuisance.
Sometimes I'm hot right after I get into bed. Logically, I know that I'll need all the covers later in the night and that it is not wise to completely remove layers just because I'm feeling hot in the short term. I find that I can flop the covers back from my chest and leave just the sheet up to my neck, even without disturbing how the covers lay on my wife. Sometimes I'll put one arm out above the covers as a "radiator." The arm will then feel a little cool and help my body perceive that it's cool, and keeping the hot arm away from the rest of the body helps reduce the perception of "hot." A few minutes before or after I doze off, my arm or chest will get cold and I'll flip the covers back over my body, without even waking up if I've already gone to the land of nod.
%mod%
You are too saving something. The larger the temp difference between inside and outside, the more heat moves. You'd probably save more by turning that fan off when not in use, that could be adding $10 a month to your electric bill.
The temp stays more constant thru out the house with the fan on 24-7, especially in the winter, its been on for a year. The fan on my furnace is a variable speed so its running at a very low speed when the heat or a/c is not in operation.
Tom
"Doug Kanter" wrote in news:C9iid.1879$ snipped-for-privacy@news02.roc.ny:
LOL !!
So that's the answer to the "...differential setting [was: Home thermostat timer} question".
It is still costing you. May not be much, but not much running all the time may still be a lot. Besides the wear and tear on the motor itself, and those aren't cheap.
I think the answer is to buy a programmable thermostat that records how long the furnace runs. Everything being bantered around this discussion is guesswork.
Not really; some of us remember physics class, while others seem to believe that inertia and heating have something in common.
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