Home mounting of WiFi antenna - advice sought for a too-short antenna mast

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I noticed that 3G areas are quickly being converted to 4G. It's still unstable in many areas (reverting to 3G, or nothing) but it's certainly a move in the right direction. Do they make a 4G access point for an entire house, either 4G to WiFi or wired? Something that could have an antenna optimally placed? It gets expensive if every device needs its own service and often data service inside a house is spotty.
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Yes - look here: http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/homefusion/hf/main.do
Scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the concept drawing.
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Thanks! It's kinda expensive but *much* better than Hughes. The "overage" cost ($10/GB) isn't bad either.
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On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 16:43:52 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Exactly my concern!
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wrote:

I've since found that they do. Verizon sells one for about $250.
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On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 13:40:42 -0600, Robert Neville wrote:

Verizon 4G just got here!
I'm not familiar with how it works, but a neighbor put an antenna on his car roof and drove up to my house and he was getting 15Mbps down speeds with it.
My problem is I'm confused how you SHARE the connection to all the computers. I'm not sure how that works ... but if it does, it could KILL the WISPs out here who make a business because Comcast doesn't serve us and DSL is far too far away.
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On Tue, 11 Sep 2012 18:21:04 +0000 (UTC), "J.G."

Well, LTE has been on the local SLV cell sites for about 9 months.

Samsung SCH-LC11 <http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/cell-phones/SCH-LC11ZKAVZW I played with one last weekend. Connection via Wi-Fi was erratic and would frequently disconnect. It does some strange dance for about two minutes when first turned on. It looks like it's ready to use, but it's not. No special software needed. No diagnostics or signal strength indication. We were in a fringe area for 4G, so speed was slow.
There's also a USB 4G device. No 3G so if you're travelling, you may have coverage problems: <http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/device/usb-modem/pantech-4g-lte Just read the reviews and draw your own conclusions. I haven't had time to try it.
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Jeff Liebermann snipped-for-privacy@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
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On Tuesday, September 11, 2012 3:58:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
m> wrote: >On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 13:40:42 -0600, Robert Neville wrote: > >> D= on't know what your Verzon coverage is like, but they've been rolling >> out LTE across the country. >Verizon 4G just got here! Well, LTE has been on the local SLV cell sites for about 9 months. >I'm not familiar with how it works, but a neighbor put an antenna on his >car roof and drove up to my house and he was getting 15Mbps down speeds >with it. > >My problem is I'm confused how you SHARE the connection to all the >computers. I'm not sure how that works ... but if it does, it could KILL >the WISPs out here who make a business because Comcast doesn't serve us >and DSL is far too far away. Samsung SCH-LC11 <http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/cell-phones/SCH-LC11ZKAVZ W> I played with one last weekend. Connection via Wi-Fi was erratic and wou=
I'm using a verizon wireless hotspot for home internet. We don't have cable or dsl. It works pretty well. I feed it into a wireless to wired client connect to a regular ethernet switch for the wired stuff. Two limitations, the dhcp will only issue 9 addresses, and you have to get either 5g or 10g a month. So no online video like netflix. But it beats the heck out of dial up. We're at the limit of coverage but the yagi solved that problem.
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wrote:

It uses WiFi from the hot spot to the computers. My cell phone will do the same but its range is limited and I really don't want to hang it on a pole outside.
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On Tue, 11 Sep 2012 20:42:21 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

I've been told that we can rubber band our cellphone to the head of a Dish TV antenna, which is a portion of a parabola, which will amplify the cell phone signal.
Anyone know if there's any truth to that?
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wrote:

I've seen Chinese cookware used as a reflector for WiFi signals. Some have gotten a few km range this way.

Is the cell tower in geosync orbit?
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On Wed, 12 Sep 2012 03:50:59 +0000 (UTC), "J.G."

It will probably do some good at 1900MHz and not much good at 850MHz. Anything is better than the stock internal low-SAR antenna. You would look rather odd wearing a satellite dish on your head. A flat piece of sheet metal or aluminum foil will work almost as well as a dish.
Let's do the math. A DBS dish is about 0.6 meters wide. At 850MHz, the maximum gain for a parabolic reflector is: gain = 9.87 * Dia^2 / wavelength^2 * (feed efficiency) gain = 9.87 * 600mm^2 / 353mm^2 * 0.4 gain = 11.4 dBi = 10 log(11.4) = 10.6dBi At 1900MHz, the gain = 17.5dbi
The 40% feed efficiency (that's the 0.4) is probably optimistic. That's also if everything is lossless, perfectly matched, built correctly, and properly designed, which is not the case for hanging a cell phone on a DBS dish. In receive, all of the RF that hits the reflector from a distant source hits the dish and is reflected toward the cell phone. Therefore 10.6 and 17.5dBi are the maximum receive antenna gains.
However, it's much worse in transmit. The cell phone transmits RF in all directions. With an electrically shortened antenna, it's almost a spherical pattern. Only some of that RF hits the dish. Most of it flys off in useless directions. The percentage is the area of the dish divided by the surface area of a sphere at the same distance from the dish focus. The area of an 600mm dish is about: Pi * 300mm^2 = 283,000 sq-mm The surface area of the sphere is: 4 * Pi * radius^2 = 4 * 3.14 * 350^2 = 1,538,600 sq-mm Therefore, the percentage of RF that actually hits the dish from the cell phone antenna is: 283,000 / 1,538,600 = 18.4% In terms of antenna gain, that's a loss of: 10 * log(0.184) = -7.4dB Therefore, the transmit antenna gain will be no better than: 10.6dBi - 7.4dB = 3.2dBi gain (850MHz) 17.5dbi - 7.4dB = 10.1dBi gain (1900MHz)
That's an improvement over the internal antenna, but hardly worth the effort at 850MHz. Not too horrible at 1900MHz. However, you can do better with an external antenna connector and a high gain yagi, panel, patch, other cellular antenna, or just a bigger dish or plate.
--
Jeff Liebermann snipped-for-privacy@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
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On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:53:01 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

That's a wonderful idea.
The Ubiquiti dish came with all stainless steel bolts. Do you still wrap them if they're all stainless steel?
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On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 16:18:58 +0000 (UTC), "J.G."

Thanks. It's original and has worked great for the last 30 odd years. The teflon tape cold flows into all the cracks and joints. It prevents capillary action. Best of all, when removed, the original connectors are as shiny as when they were new. I use 1" wide plumbers tape. BC Hardware used to stock it, but they haven't had it for years. Common 1/2" is available anywhere and will suffice.
Hmmm... I just found some on eBay. Time to restock: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/140808957532

No. Not the bolts. Stainless doesn't need any protection. Don't even bother greasing the nuts as a slipper nut tends to loosen if the dish vibrates in the wind.
The teflon plus electrical tape wrap is for electrical and RF connectors. Most of those are internally protected inside the Rocket housing. The four rubber boots over the four RF connectors is probably adequate. However, I like to wrap the connector with teflon tape, and then slide on the boot. The boot will deteriorate after about 5 years in the sun. After it crumbles and falls apart, just rewrap the teflon, layer the electrical tape, and spray on the acrylic (mask the radio) and you're good for another 10 years or so.
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Jeff Liebermann snipped-for-privacy@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
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On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 09:41:45 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

One thing that is driving me crazy is that I have to climb the ladder to disconnect the Rocket M2 to run tests with my (now spare) Nanobridge M2.

The Nanobridge is even worse! Taking the connector out of the Nanobridge requires dexterity and you need three or four hands (hard to do on a ladder!).

So, my next investment is in waterproof RJ45 couplers!!!!!!!!!!
Funny the things you learn only AFTER doing stuff for the first time!
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On Tue, 11 Sep 2012 18:34:29 +0000 (UTC), "J.G."

I bet they have some kind of boot you can put over the splice.

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On Tue, 11 Sep 2012 18:34:29 +0000 (UTC), "J.G."

The two "U" clamps holding the dish are slightly twisted.

Once I tie myself off with a safety belt, I don't have to keep one hand on the ladder, or risk my life using both hands on the antenna. Throw an 11mm rope over the roof and tie it to something really sturdy. Get a safety belt, sit harness, or just tie yourself off with more rope. Then, you get to use both hands.

No such thing. Shove some clear silicon waterproofing grease (the same stuff used by the phone company) into the RJ45. The best place to find that is at the local scuba dive shop. It's used to seal camera housings. Don't use too much. When done, just wrap some clear cellophane wrap around the coupler, and then embalm it in electrical tape. If exposed to sun, spray with clear acrylic to keep the tape from crumbling.

Learn by Destroying(tm). Remember, you have only one life to give for this project.
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Jeff Liebermann snipped-for-privacy@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
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On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:53:01 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

Funny you should mention the rope.
I bought a 100' length from the local surplus store on Winchester, along with a harness. When I bought it, I had thought the harness was a climbing harness - but it was actually a 'safety' harness.
Also, I was wondering HOW to anchor the rope at the top - but I had not thought about just throwing it over the house. That's a GREAT idea!
I'm not sure what the ascenders are for because I was planning on climbing the ladder with the rope tied to me just in case I fell.
I guess you're intimating I don't need the ladder ... and, well, it 'is' steeply sloped so that might not be a bad idea.
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On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 16:22:05 +0000 (UTC), "J.G."

Doing the math. 40ft up to the eaves. My guess is about 40ft over the roof plus 20ft to the ground and around a tree. Total is 100ft. This is going to be close.

Been there, done it that way. Worked just fine. However, you're going to destroy the tiles on the roof peak if you fall. That's fine because they're easy to replace. Your life is worth more than the tiles.

Easy. Pretend the cheap Made in China ladder just buckled in the middle and you're hanging a few feet below the roof eave. You're tied in with your hardness so you're not going to fall any further. How are you going to get down? You can't have an assistant untie the other end of the rope because they're unlikely to lower you safely without belaying. If you have climbing experience and know how to handle the ropes and hardware, lowering yourself is no problem. For everyone else, a stop descender will be much easier.

You need the ladder, which should also be tied to a rope thrown over the roof peak and tied to a tree with a separate line. It doesn't need to be 11mm. Just enough to keep the ladder from sliding sideways. The safety rope is just in case something goes wrong.
I can tell you've never done this before. I suggest you find someone with experience to do the install. (Not me. I'm getting too old for this stuff). Also, if you move the project to the roof peak, you can climb up the other side of the house, which presumably is closer to the ground.
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Jeff Liebermann snipped-for-privacy@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
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On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 09:55:12 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I just bought 100 feet of parachute cord at the surplus store. I bought it for shoelaces, but it will work just fine for the ladder tie.
Funny, I hadn't even thought of tying the ladder down!
Here's an install I just did at a different location:

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