Home ac having problems - freon doesn't seem to be circulating

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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Why tell me? The folks I do work for don't have the money to replace a system. BeeHO hasn't stimulated theirs or my bank account so folks call on me to repair what they have. It's called survival and making do with what you got. I had an old fellow call me one day to look at a Carrier he had bought back in the early 70's. It was the best and most expensive unit Carrier made for homes at that time. It has stainless steel hardware, factory sight glass, high and low pressure controls, anti short cycle timer and a temperature controlled two speed condenser fan. The condenser fan motor burned out and an HVAC company told him he needed a new system. I took a look at his old Rolls Royce of an AC and told him "Don't you dare get rid of this system!". I replaced the two speed condenser fan motor and the system goes into low speed mode at night and thanks to an insulating blanket over the compressor, it barely makes a sound in quiet mode. His neighbors all around him have newer AC units that sound like airplanes taking off. The repair bill was quite a bit less than the $8,000 the other guys wanted.
TDD
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And, that's the state of the economy. We're headed into a depression to make 1929 look like party week at the frat house. I get plenty of chances to rescue older equipment. I regularly work on R-12 equipment that dates back to before the freon boondoggle.
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Christopher A. Young
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One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220 line and measure the amps. On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of refridgerent but its still working. older AC will draw a lot more amps.
greg
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(GregS) wrote:

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/wkend0412/images/11.jpg
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Great link! Working that back, led to a list of JPEG files, that can be printed. http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/wkend0412/images /
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That can provide some information. Of course, an older unit will draw more. A dirty unit will draw more. An under charged unit will draw less.
Dirty and undercharged can cancell each other out.
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On Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:37:31 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

Your brain and mouth cancels each other out.
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On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 18:03:58 -0400, The King

    You give him too much credit in the first half of that. Unless of course his mouth is empty, in which case I understand the comparison.
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On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 18:16:42 -0400, .p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

Assuming he has a brain, it dosen't work very well.
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On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 18:42:21 -0400, The King

opps. corrected.
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On Apr 7, 10:54am, snipped-for-privacy@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:

As far as I know, there is no consumption of refrigerant in any residential system.
If you're low, you have a leak. You fix the leak and refill. There is no periodic topping off of refrigerant that got used up, can't happen.
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Yes, but extremely small leaks of a few ounces a year can be almost impossible to find and fix. There are a lot of systems with that problem. The only practical solution is to add a little refridgerant every couple years.
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jamesgangnc wrote:

I've had very good luck with a stop leak from the company Cliplight Manufacturing. I use it for systems that have tiny leaks that would require a major disassembly to find. I always pull a deep vacuum on anything that has been rebuilt and use nitrogen to blow through it a few times. When me and my friends install a new system on a job somewhere, the condenser may not be installed until the building or home is ready to be occupied because too many condensing units have been stolen. We will blow the lines and evaporator out with nitrogen, install service valves on the line set, pressurize it with nitrogen and leave it that way until it's time to set the condenser. The good thing about leaving lines and evaporator charged with N2 is that we know if there is a leak or if a carpenter put a nail through a line.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/lby8fz
TDD
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wrote:

I tried that on one system. The compressor was a far bit noisier after adding that sealer. It ran that way for another year or so but it didn't sound good while doing it.
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jamesgangnc wrote:

Day before yesterday I had a noisy compressor in a make line at a pizza place. I injected 3oz of Supco88 into the system and it is a lot quieter now. It will free up just about any sticking valve or bearing.
http://www.supco.com/Chemicals%20pg7.htm
TDD
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Now, that looks totally useful.
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Yes, that's what many techs do. Shoot a quick squirt in, satisfy the customer, guarantee a return visit next year.
Professionals on the other hand know how to fix the leak, and do the job right.
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I have used some window units for 40 years and still work. When I see thin aluminum cores, you go to wonder. The more efficient the more chance of failure. Now my Cavalier was working great up untill last month when all hell broke loose. The garage man says he tops his off a couple times a year. Last year I was trying to top off my 77 280Z with R134, and it worked for a while, longer than the last time I tried, 15 years ago. I gave away my last can when I sold the car. Compressor leaks are common on the vehicles.
My House air sort of seems a little slow, but its only taking 1500 watts and its supposed to be a 2.5 ton.
I had window air units taking 23 amps at 220.
greg
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There is no such thing as perfect. All refrigeration systems leak to some extent. When I got my EPA card, the law said we can top off any system with less than 50 pounds of refrigerant.
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On Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:34:53 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

Why do you lie?

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