I want to replace my deteriorated side door, which is an odd size - 24". I
looked in Home Despot at a 30" example. I would have to special order my
On-line, I found this description of "hollow core":
Hollow Core Doors
Today hollow core doors are are installed in a majority of low to moderatel
y priced new homes. Hollow core doors have made great strides in quality co
mpared to the early years when they were extremely flimsy and cheap. Hollow
core doors have a wood frame around the perimeter of the door panel, usual
ly one to two inches in depth. The surface is either hardboard or plywood w
ith corrugated structural cardboard stiffeners throughout the center of the
door for stiffness.
Hollow Door Pros - Hollow core doors are cheaper, lighter, and less likely
to warp, shrink and swell. Hollow core doors also take paint much better th
an solid wood doors.
Hollow Door Cons - Hollow core doors are prone to damage from unruly kids,
slamming doors into stops and other impact loads. Hollow core doors are als
o much harder to modify and repair due to the hollow nature.
The "1-2" around the perimeter sounds awfully narrow. Would a special-order
24" door have the same perimeter?
Can I ask for more?
Is that ever done?
Any point to requesting it?
I want the window in the existing door taken out and installed in the new o
ne by my handyman. But what's INSIDE the door that he can work with? Are
those "cardboard stiffeners" capable of taking a window?
I think the old door is also hollow core; I couldn't have afforded solid, s
o how did they get the window in? Did they create a wood frame to hold the
window? Did they use stiffeners" decades ago; the old door goes wayyy bac
Also, how did they get the cat door in?
I know this sounds dumb, but how do I ascertain whether old door IS hollow
or solid without destroying it?
Any help appreciated.
So let me get this straight.
In the early years, hollow-core doors were "extremely flimsy and cheap".
But then they got better - by using hardboard with corrugated structural
cardboard stiffeners. And that's somehow NOT flimsy and cheap? How
were they made back when they were "extremely flimsy and cheap" ?
24" doors are common size for bathrooms.
Is this an interior door or an exterior door?
You cut the opening for the plastic frame on both sides of the door, and
you will see the stiffeners or interior framing (which will be wood, not
cardboard for an exterior door). Then you install the plastic frame.
Seems that pine and spruce have a density of about 30 lbs per cubic
If your door is 1.5" thick, 2 feet wide, and 82 inches high, then it has
a volume of 1.7 cubic feet. If it was completely solid - no air - made
of pine or spruce, it would weigh about 51 lbs.
On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 8:20:36 PM UTC-7, H ome G uy wrote:
??? The door has been in there since forever, so who knows...?
I ruined it by watering adjacent plants with a spray attachment, never thinking -- dumb-ass!!!! that it would rot the lower portion of the door.
Exterior. Has a window. MUST HAVE. Isaid I wanted to reuse existing window, but this time I may try to get louvered instead of fixed-- for ventilation w/o leaving door open.
Oh, that should take just a minute (snort).
OTOH, why bother since I'm replacing it anyway and I have to buy what's available.
As a hardcore <g> information sponge, I have filed that info away upstairs.
Really, you've been helpful, so Tx
Are you sure you want an exterior door a 10 year old kid could kick through?
Your need for a cat door and a window dictate the use of a solid core door.
You'll be in trouble sooner rather than later. Hollow core doors are not, to my
knowledge generally used for exterior purposes.
On Tue, 08 Apr 2014 22:35:05 -0500, Gordon Shumway
wood, steel, fiberglass, or hardboard (Masonite) panels. Windows are
put into them all the time - both interior and exterior (interior in
offices, for instance) Only fire rated doors are generally solid core
today. At least around here. A solid core oak entry door weighs half
a ton!!! (not quite, but you get the drift)
On Tue, 8 Apr 2014 18:51:55 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
Check with a real building supply company. 24" is not that rare.
In Florida, Raymond Lumber will have them.
You can tell pretty quickly if it is hollow core, just by the weight.
Swing it and catch it. See how hard it is to stop,
They also sound hollow if you bang on it.
I installed a cat door in an interior hollow core door. The doors old
enough to be fairly sturdy.
I installed a hollow core interior plastic door. Sounds go right through.
I installed a exterior windowless steel door with foam insulation. Good
sound control, seems sturdy enough.
My front door is an old hollow construction, with windows. It's still
fairly sturdy. I drilled many holes and filled with foam. I had to find all
the internal supports. I also added plexiglass window panes on the other
side of th glass.
Cardboard is not for support.
On Tue, 8 Apr 2014 18:51:55 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
It does? How thick were the doors in the castle you grew up in?
The door isn't.
Are we talking about a front door, or any other door between the house
and the outside? I'm sure it's not hollow. I think you could
afford solid if that is the only choice you were given. If you needed
a new water heater, you'd buy that, right, and they're more money than a
solid door, iirc, even one with a window.
Did you buy the door separate after you bought the house?
With a saw.
Tap on it. Also a hollow door will have the same thickness everywhere.
A solid door may well have panels, maybe 4 of them, or 2 if there is a
window, that are inset, and mean the door is thinner where there are
**And why do you refer to the perimeter, and not the thickness?
On Tue, 08 Apr 2014 22:35:05 -0500, Gordon Shumway
I think veneer is the wrong word.
1. a thin layer of wood or other material for facing or inlaying wood.
2. any of the thin layers of wood glued together to form plywood.
3. Building Trades. a facing of a certain material applied to a
different one or to a type of construction not ordinarily associated
with it, as a facing of brick applied to a frame house.
Thin veneer might be even thinner.
IOW veneer is thinner than the large pieces of a hollow wood door, or
the door would be fragile.
On Wed, 09 Apr 2014 00:26:46 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Clare seems to know something the rest of us don't.
I have had a lot of experience moving solid core doors around, the ones
with the panels, and they sure are heavy, and their width makes them
even harder to handle. People I know have used them as temporary walls
(because one can, or used to be able to, find them in the trash and
maybe they are sold very cheaply too.) but I've never had my front
door off its hinges, and never had to move one at the store. My front
door has no panels, so maybe that should be a clue that it's hollow.
As a side topic, I know someone who was, I think, robbed, so he bought a
steel clad door with a guarantee, the words of which I forget, installed
by the vendor and quite expensive. Well soeone broke into his house
again, through the steel clad door, and the vendor paid off on the
guarantee -- they gave him another door, installed -- but nothing for
what was stolen. AFAIK, it's much harder to break the door
with a battering ram or to put ones fist through the door, but that's
not how burglars break in anyhow, so it was a waste of money. I think
steel will slow down fire, but with an outside door, is one trying to
keep fire from getting into the house, or out of it?
Tap on it. A hollow core door SOUNDS hollow.
The building code may not allow hollow core exterior doors. Even if it does
I wouldn't suggest using one for that purpose for a variety of reasons
including lack of weather stripping, general flimsiness and lack of
security, strong potential for delamination of the skins, etc.
You can get steel entry doors in numrous styles - including ones with
windows - for $100-200. They are steel inasmuch as there are steel skins
over wood frames, the interior is filed with foam. Your handyman could put
in a cat door in the same way he would with a wood door, either hollow or
solid...he would cut a hole and put in the cat door.
The problem you would have with steel (and probably fiberglass) would be
finding one in the narrow size you need...mosy exterior doors are either 32"
or 36". Your best bet might be to have your handyman just build you a frame
and panel door. Is he that handy?
| Exterior. Has a window. MUST HAVE. Isaid I wanted to reuse existing
window, but this time I may try to get louvered instead of fixed-- for
ventilation w/o leaving door open.
| [...cat door...]
If you want an exterior door with a window and
cat door you need to buy an exterior wood door,
preferably with a window already in it.
What you're looking at is interior doors. The glue
in them is not suitable for use as exterior doors. The
pressboard/Masonite hollow core doors currently
popular are even more vulnerable to water than the
lauan plywood hollow core doors. There are also
solid core doors for interior, but they're just filled with
low grade particle board. They also can't tolerate
Most wood panel doors are also being made junky
now. I don't think one can still get a 6-panel interior
door made of solid stock without having it built. They're
now made of glued-up stock with wood veneer on the
surface. If you use such a door as an exterior door the
veneers will delaminate from the core.
You don't want fiberglass or steel if you need to cut
a cat door. You could get a standard wood panel door --
but only exterior, and only if you can get it in 24" size.
You could also get a staved wood solid flush door and
cut the holes for the window and cat door. The advantage
of that is that it can be cut down to any size you need
because it's just a wood slab.
Note that an interior door is 1 3/8" thick. An exterior
door is 1 3/4" thick. If you've been using an interior door
you may need to modify the frame a bit, by adding
exterior moldings or some such, in order to fit an
If you have a table saw or some other way to rip down a strip somewhat
precisely you can cut your hole for the cat door and put blocking in
around the hole to maintain the edge of the torsion box.
You just need to match the inside dimension of the hollow core.
I ended up having to do this when I cut down a hollow core door for a
strange size rough opening.
I've had to do the same thing. My son lived in the basement of a friend's
house for a while. The stairs ended at a landing and then you turned left
or right and went down 2 more steps into the basement rooms. The wall along
the stairs ended at the landing, so the door had to be hung in that
opening, which was 2 steps above the floor of his room. In other words, it
ended up being a really short door. We cut some off of the top and bottom
of the door to even it out, but it was still pretty weird. However, it did
give him the privacy he wanted since the room we hung to door for was his
bedroom and the room on the other side of the landing was where the washing
The bad thing was that we sized the door for the opening, inserted the
filler strips, hung it, and then tried to open it. We didn't realize that
the dropped ceiling sloped downward towards the wall that the door opened
against. The door only opened about 3/4's of the way before getting jammed
into the ceiling. We had to take the door off, cut off another inch off the
top and then do some very strange trim work to make it look halfway decent.
He moved out about a month later. Damn kids!
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