Hoisting a Keg using Garage Ceiling

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satellite_chris wrote:

Gravity is your friend. Roll the sucker off a ramp.
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I've pulled V-8 engines & trannys with less in my younger days, I did usually make provision to wedge a 2 X 4 or 4 X 4 in on either end between the top board and the floor effectively creating an A. I will say the rafters creaked a little with 500 + lbs hanging from them. Then again they don't build houses now, like they did in the 50's
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satellite_chris wrote:

160 pounds? A chain hoist?!!!. A rope and two pulleys will move that easily unless you are crippled somehow. Why dick around with a heavy slow chain hoist? To be honest, I wouldn't even mess around with a hoist at all to move such an item, a ramp and roll the sucker.
Harry K
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On 5 Sep 2006 11:08:31 -0700, "satellite_chris"

I think with a little added thought you can eliminate the part where you have to move the truck for each keg. Hang a doodad from the ceiling of the garage**, so that your rear truck window just hits it when you are far enough backed in that the end of your hoist is just beyond the edge of your tailgate. You can pull the keg onto the tailgate or attach it when it is in the truck, whichever you plan to do, and when you lift it up it will swing a little but shouldn't be dangerous, and when it is beyond the tailgate (directly below the hoist attaching point) you can lower it.
When you raise it, when it is higher than the truck be=d, push it in a bit with one arm and lower with the other.
**They sell these stupid red, or red and green lights, to tell when you are far enough into the garage. They also have one that uses sonar, iirc. My mother just hung a doodad from a string so that it hit the windshield when she was the right amount in. It cost nothing, needed no batteries, never broke, and worked for a decade until she moved out of the house. (She might have had to raise or lower it when she got a different car, but in the case of her cars, which were about the same size, I don't think so.)
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What a good idea, I am going to do that this weekend as I already have a mark on a 10 months old car (not me driving honest). Stu http://www.cateringappliancesltd.co.uk
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Stu wrote:

You MUST use an old tennis ball and a long shoelace. Anything else defies convention, mocks historical precedent, and is an insult to the combined wisdom of the generations.
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build anything. I marked around it with chalk if it ever moved, but it stays in place well. Tomes
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-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1

My grandparents used either a ping-pong ball or a wiffle ball...can't remember which for sure. I think it was a small wiffle ball, about the same size as a golf ball, and it dangled from some string.
_/_ / v \\ Scott Alfter (remove the obvious to send mail) (IIGS( http://alfter.us/ Top-posting! \\_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?
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the wall every few weeks. I think my wife is trying to give me a stroke!
Bill
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That's why I stand behind the front door and jump out at her when she comes home from work. ;-)
Mark R
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On 5 Sep 2006 23:48:36 -0700, "Stu"

My mother just used something little and light, the size of a thimble iirc, heavy enough to hold the cotton string straight, and big enough to be seen and for her to tell when it touched the window, (because it stops getting closer), but not annoying if you walk into it when there is no car in the garage.
A lot of the other devices, including the fancy expensive ones, can't be seen until you're supposed to stop, or not at all. This one can see from several feet away. Unfortunately I have no garage.
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satellite_chris writes:

No. Go up in the attic with a piece of SuperStrut from Home Depot electrical aisle. Lay it so it crosses the rafters. Use 1/2" threaded rod and nuts to project a stud through the ceiling down into the garage so it sticks out an inch or so. Use a coupling nut and 1/2" threaded eye to get your attachment point.
I have lifted 800 lbs this way:
http://www.truetex.com/movemill.htm
Stabbing lag screws into rafters weakens the rafters, and you risk pull-out of the screws.
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Richard,
How do I attach the SuperStrut to the joists or are you suggesting just letting it lay there?
Thanks for your suggestion!
Chris
Richard J Kinch wrote:

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On 6 Sep 2006 07:43:23 -0700, "satellite_chris"

Let it lay there. If you get enough lateral force to make it slide, you WANT it to slide, instead of yanking the truss(s) out sideways.
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Interesting...if it were to slide too far it would probably cause a keg to come crashing down. I can't imagine not attaching it but I suppose I should just take everyones word for it. Goedjn wrote:

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On 6 Sep 2006 12:05:08 -0700, "satellite_chris"

It can't slide more than the distance between two joists, because the part that sticks down will jam up against one. if it tries to slide the other way, you MIGHT get enough rotation to let the beam drop through.
If this is a permanant installation, you want it anchored to the top of the wall-plates.
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satellite_chris writes:

Lay it crosswise with the C opening up. No attachment needed unless you expect a lot of sideways forces. The 1/2" threaded rod goes vertically down through the gypsum board ceiling, and lightly secures the assembly in place. Run a nut and washer up to the bottom of the ceiling from below, and in the attic you have a washer and nut on top, so the pair of nuts on the rod are acting as a weakly tightened (a little more than finger-tight) clamp that holds the strut down in the attic.
You weakly tighten so as to avoid cracking the gypsum board. Under load the clamp loosens so you don't crack the gypsum board. If you start to see a gap between the washer and ceiling, you know you have a load that's starting to bend the joists. But in my applications I've lifted 500 to 800 lbs without even loosening the hand-tight clamping.
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Geez, everyone sure is making it complicated to lift that 160 lb keg! It's not like it's a 600 lb engine or something.
My suggestion: Tap the keg while it's still in the pickup, you're not going to be drinking and driving anyway, are you?
:)
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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This is a very good point. I hung an 80 lb kick bag by bolting a piece of 4x4 between two joists and suspending from a heavy duty hook. It took almost daily abuse for 9 years so much abuse that the bag had to be replaced twice.

My only problem is that beer will get warm unless you're holding a party.
Dick
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snipped-for-privacy@fellspt.charm.net wrote:

Exactly. If there ever was a case of over-engineering, this is it. 160 lb keg does not need a hoist to get it out of the bed. One plank and either drag or roll if it you are too weak to gently lower 160 pounds. If a hoist is wanted, one pulley on the ceiling and one on the keg brings it down to 80 pound pull on a rope. I am surprised no-one except you and I have mentioned the absurdity of setting up for a CHAINHOIST!!!
Harry K
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