Lets see. A slam, then a lie, then an accusation, and then discouragement, and telling me not to try. Hmm. And, who do you sound like?
Who said "if thou be the Christ, throw yourself down"?
Answer: Satan, the deceiver. That's who you sound like.
That may end up being the solution. We'll see. Thanks for the field report.
Now, that's a thoughtful reply. Not often seen (manners, and thought) on Usenet.
Maybe mixed in with axle grease?
Graphite.
Somebody told you this and you believed him. But you and your informant are incorrect. A lubricant is something that lubricates i.e. reduces the friction between to separate sliding members.
If what you are trying to say is that WD40 is probably not the best choice of lubricant in many cases I will agree with you.
It might not last as long as other products, it might not smell as nice as other products, but it does in fact reduce friction, make slick and slippery that which was not so before, so therefore it is a lubricant.
It has the advantage of being cheap and available almost everywhere. It is easy to apply and seldom does harm when applied.
Wax might be a better choice. Melt the wax, mix in some graphite, dip the disassembled hinge parts that have been cleaned (carb/brake cleaner) and dried, and then reassemble after cleaning the wax off the outside of the hinge.
That would probably be effective and long lasting, but messy.
You might do almost as well taking the hinges apart and smearing on some chap-stick with a q-tip.
Some heavy doors in the UK have tiny ball bearings in the hinges. Work wonderfully well until a ball gets chipped or the lubricant dries out. New hinge is the final solution.
I use Industrial Chain Lube on stuff like that. Gunk L716 Liquid Wrench Industrial Chain Lube can be found at most auto parts stores, it's not for O-ring type bike chains there's another one for that purpose.
Also lots of fun to spray over the top of a butane lighter.
Do it right, and you won't need to do it again for many years.
Take the door down, clean out the hinge leaves and pins. There may be some filthy particulate crud involved, so cover the floor/carpet. The cleaning part is important, that dry powder residue is very abrasive.
Plain old white grease is a fantastic lube for this application (and outdoor hinges as well). A small tube will do a lot of doors. Put a thin coat on the pins and hinge leave bores.. a swab works well for the bores. Don't neglect the top and bottom edges of the (thrust) load bearing leaves. Don't over do it, or it'll be messy later. Put it back together and thats it.
I once had a girlfriend who's front door hinges were so dry it was physically hard to move her door... noisy too.
Anyway, I offered to lube the door, and she accepted. I pulled it down and did the big number. There was probably a table spoon of dry rust spooge that came out of those massive hinges...
Shortly after she called demanding the squeaks back... complained she couldn't sleep fearing someone might now sneak in, and that light breezes blew the door around when she left it open.
You can't win... solved the 'new' problems with a bell and doorstop.
Erik
I believe you are exactly right. One day, I'll have to try the screws (metal jamb) and see if they want to come out. As intermediate answer, I'm going to see if the hinge pins come out, and dab in some grease.
I knew a watch repairman who found his squeaky hinge useful, as a door alert.
Another thought... could the 'groaning' you describe be coming from the closer? Can you disconnect it's linkage and operate independently of the door to test?
A good 'poor man's' stethoscope is to put a screwdriver blade up to the suspected noisy component, and while operating, put your ear up to the screwdriver handle. Use common sense and good judgment if listening to hazardous equipment this way.
Erik
It's very possible. I ought to try that. I did hold my head near the door, and from what I can tell, it's the center or lower hinge. I have dealt with squeaky and noisy door closers many times, over the years.
Thank you, but I put a lot of thought into all my replies.
Look! A squirrel!
That's the second metric squirrel today!
Regarding "miracles," I refer you to Deuteronmy 13:1
(Paraphrasing) If someone makes a "miracle" and tells you to worship other gods, even if the miracle or sign comes true ... that prophet or dream-diviner shall be put to death...
Point is, it's what the dude SAYS that implies divine guidance, not what he DOES.
--- Aside
I consider myself a lay-expert on religion. Heck, I even translated the New Testament into Morse Code ("The translation for the scholar who has every other translation"). Regrettably, this work suffered the same fate as my previous book: "Toilet-Tissue Origami - The Ultimate Book for the John".
I believe publishers have no business sense. None at all.
But... what's art without suffering?
The bottom edge of the door is subject to splitting from the sharp end of the tool, hence the warning.
Something to protect the floor also would be a good idea.
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in news:hojl4o $dqb$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
The point is to use the little nozzle hose to inject the white-grease spray into the hinge gaps as deeply and as copiously as you can. Give it time to get shoved into the gaps. Spray the hinge gaps with the door mostly open, and mostly closed. Do not be afraid to really soak it.
This does create backspray and mess on the door. That's why you hold a cloth or paper towel in front of the hinge so the backspray doesn't hit you in the face.
You can bracket the hinge with a sheet of newspaper held on by masking tape. This will minimize door cleanup afterwards.
I've had 100% success eliminating door hinge noise using this method.
Hmm, get something with a straight edge about the same height as the door
- check the frame and hinges for alignment. Maybe something's shifted; you might be able to tell which hinge is squeaking* and shim it with a metal shim to bring it back into line.
cheers
Jules
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